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Old 12-15-2019, 05:39 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna View Post
Now that you have been through it and you know what to expect, if you did it again, would you attack the old floor the same way or would you do it differently?

Interesting question. I cannot think of any other way to take up the original hard floor or deal with the million carpet staples. It is just plain hard work. I think the floor we now have is superior to the factory original.

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Old 12-16-2019, 11:17 AM   #30
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following and absorbing

Considering this project in the near future, we've chosen a high quality vinyl planking product at a specialty (wholesale) store.


Our '07 Alpine, if I understand correctly, has a different sliding support method. Hence, while I believe thickness not to be an issue, protecting the new floor is, so any requierement for roller or skid is still a mystery to me.
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Old 12-17-2019, 07:05 AM   #31
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This project is on my list too.
First step is definitely to get my face down on the floor with a flashlight while someone else runs the kitchen slide in and out so I can see exactly what goes on under there.
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Old 12-18-2019, 12:32 PM   #32
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We have installed 2 LVP Floors in our 99 Alpine 40 FDSU

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This project is on my list too.
First step is definitely to get my face down on the floor with a flashlight while someone else runs the kitchen slide in and out so I can see exactly what goes on under there.
If your coach has the factory Laminate it is a BEAR to take out but we did it.It is the hardest part of the Job. There is no need to remove the slide and no issues with the skid rollers and he new floor. In as much as luxury vinyl plank floors are "floating Floors" they are only meant of be able to expand and contracts on a stationary floor. When buying LVP get the highest quality type that is the color you want. Forget home depot & lowes and go to a quality flooring store. The cost difference is nominal because you are buying very little of it. We used to own tile & granite stores and have a knowledge of floors. The first floor we put in w contacted the manufacturer that said it would work in RVs and they would warranty it. We installed it floating and after 2 years the end butt joints started cupping. By this point we were embarking on a more extensive remodel that included a color change so we bought a Mannington product and they suggested that we use a "sticky flooring glue that never completely hardens. This time we opted to install a radiant heat electric floor warmer. This is a product that we had used in a lot of bathrooms. It is meant to go in wet spaces, it is paper thin with a sticky side that sticks to the subfloor and the new flooring can be glued to it. We installed a 3' by 15' section of the heating mat down the middle of the Salon Kitchen area. and a 2nd section 18" by 10' for our bathroom area. The new floor was installed with the sticky glue. We have had it for over a year with no issues. As far as the radiant heat we thought we would end up with warm floors for our feet. As turns out it is way better than that. We spent a week in Parker Arizona where it was a constant 40 degrees. We set the floor heat thermostat to 68 degrees and the suburban heater to 66 degrees. The suburban ran for 5 minutes and brought the coach to temperature and then it turned off. that was the last time we heard the jet engine roar of the suburban heater that week. No more noisy on off of the heater in the middle of the night. The electric floor has been fantastic. It is pretty affordable. Attached are some pictures of the new floors.(WARNING we have done an extreme remodel of our coach but it is a 99 ALPINE) I will take some better pics of just the floor. and post later.

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Old 12-18-2019, 09:51 PM   #33
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Wow, your 99 looks amazing. Nice Work!
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Old 12-19-2019, 01:16 AM   #34
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Wow that's a pretty coach you have Caryn

Will you be at Quartzite next month?
Love to see it in person.
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Old 12-19-2019, 05:14 AM   #35
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Wow, CarynsDream, that is a beautiful remodel/update!!!
I love the metal roll up draining rack. I saw that on an RV at a dealer and just thought it was the coolest thing.
Since you guys are from the flooring biz, maybe you can educate me. I have installed quite a bit of nice and not-so-nice laminate and vinyl flooring in houses I have remodeled over the years. I carefully followed the instructions for expansion gaps and never had any issues or call backs.
I always wondered what the hierarchy of factors was.
•climate
•expanse of the room
•wear patterns
•heavy furniture
•etc
My hunch is that in an rv, which is both small and vibrating/flexing all the time, that you don't need to float the floor--and as you guys decided, use a flexible adhesive.
I was also curious about your experience with the home depot LVP. Usually one has cupping or detachment along the length of a plank if there is a problem--not the butt ends.
I just installed the thick "life proof" vinyl from home depot in my daughters basement and as I was putting it down I was so impressed with the butt joints being so precise and almost seamless.
I also love your radiant idea, but I wonder if that will affect the tightness of the joints over time.
Thanks for sharing, and if you have any more insider scoops I would love to hear them.
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Old 12-19-2019, 02:50 PM   #36
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Thumbs up Niiiice!

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Forget home depot & lowes and go to a quality flooring store. ....... we use a "sticky flooring glue that never completely hardens. .......opted to install a radiant heat electric floor warmer.
Being in the early planning stages, I somewhat dismissed the radiant heat idea, for cost and clearance issues. Paper thin will fit! What did you do for circuit protection?



I'd appreciate specifics on your choice(s).


Post a pic of the entry step?
We've chosen the flooring material (nonHD) thru a wholesale store and have a superb installer, especially since your pics answer my ?? of plank direction. He echoes your assertion of a non-floating install.
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Old 12-20-2019, 12:52 AM   #37
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Yes we will be at Quarzite this year.

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Wow that's a pretty coach you have Caryn

Will you be at Quartzite next month?
Love to see it in person.
We will be at quartzite this year with the ACA . We were there last year and a couple years ago. we should have 70 plus Alpines as well as several S.O.B.'s. Feel free to drop by fif you want to walk through our coach. We have done a couple changes on the exterior of our coach. This is what our 99 looks like now.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-21-2019, 04:28 AM   #38
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Ahhhh, the old 8 parking spot technique.....I know it well.
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Old 12-21-2019, 08:59 AM   #39
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That’s 8 “compact sites🤪
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Old 12-21-2019, 09:50 AM   #40
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I thought that was a 2019!
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Old 12-22-2019, 01:37 AM   #41
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Technically the 2019 40 FDSU

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I thought that was a 2019!
Technically the the Alpine Coach 2019 40FDSU

U is for Update.
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Old 12-22-2019, 10:26 AM   #42
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First step is definitely to get my face down on the floor with a flashlight while someone else runs the kitchen slide in and out so I can see exactly what goes on under there.
Yes, be sure you know what is going on under your kitchen cabinets. My experience. I assumed the left side of the kitchen cabinets slide shoe (or whatever you want to call it) was the same as the right. On my 1999 40FDS they were not the same. The right cabinet slide shoe was fixed to the floor and did not move – the cabinet slid on top of the fixed shoe. The left side the shoe is attached to the bottom of the cabinet and slid on top of the floor as the slide was retracked. How did I learn this? I installed the floating floor (the first time) base on the above assumption. I installed the planks butted up against the slide shoe on the left the same as the right side. I thought the left was fixed to the floor the same as the right side. What happened, the first time I attempted to retrack the slide the shoe on the left side began to move and push catching the edge of the new plank and started to buckle the new floor (an oh crap moment). Digging into the left cabinet I discovered the slide shoe was not fixed to the floor like the right side, rather to the bottom of the cabinet. Hence the modification to rollers – to roll up and on-top of new floor.

At least on my 1999 40FDS, the second floor install, I made sure the new floor planks were installed under the left slide shoe (which I had replace with rollers). With the rolls I don’t have to worry about marks or scratches on the floor. Because of possible variations in manufacturing, just make sure you know what is going on the underside both sides of your kitchen cabinets before installing your new floor.
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