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Old 05-19-2020, 12:17 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: SoOC
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New LVP floor + heat

Pics soon, but please send/post any entry step redos you did. (Step and toilet completion by my professional this w/e.)

Shown in another thread, I removed the carpet and (partially cracked) tile, then two-coated RedGuard for a waterproof barrier.

The floor heat power leads start at the (unused) D/W C/B; that Romex fed under the (drawered) cabinet, R/R heat register for easier access), to the water pipes and leads under the outer wall baseboard cover in the 'john', down through the floor via the pipe route, then back up to the under-fridge space. Click image for larger version

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They and sensor wire were taped, then RedGuarded (glue-like) in place. Scott channeled the pads of the AquaBlue II, Havasu Oak planks to relieve any stress on the wires. That silvery, wholesale-only product matches the factory colors very well.

The toughest wiring was from that fridge support floor, site of the wire junction box, up through the D/R-fridge wall, to the thermostat. The new Zircon HD900C stud finder removed most concerns about pipes and wires, plus any studs, in that wall. I chose to site the thermostat on that wall, right next to the stock t-stat, veresus the exterior wall. My son and I used two fish tapes to reach each other, then pull the first wire; a lead pull wire for the 'real' wire pull.


Nice surprise is that the D/W circuit is only energized when external or generator power is utilized. The three heat panels only draw 5-6A, covering the hallway, then most of the foot area in the main cabin.

Calorique was excellent in their phone support, but didn't supply the 'stat; sourced online from PerfectlyWarm, a Danish company.
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Old 05-19-2020, 02:45 PM   #2
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Very nicely done. I have a 1/2 gallon of RedGuard left over from a previous home shower project....hmmm.
This is just what I plan on doing when replacing our original Pergo type flooring, which still is in excellent shape. DW loves it, me not so much.
We laid LVP at our previous S&B, and I loved it. Also did a small heated floor section in the master bath, but I routered the osb wood floor for the wire and buried it with fix all first. Hooked it all up to a programmable tstat. Boy, was that nice to wake up to for the morning s.s.s. before work routine. (I'll take a cold floor and retirement any day tho)
Please post more pictures, especially how you channeled the flooring for the wire, and what gauge/type wire did you use...how you floated it all out first etc.
I too have an unused W/D breaker begging to be utilized.
Those doubting the benefits of heated floors have never experienced the joy of owning one. Staying tuned...
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Old 05-19-2020, 03:24 PM   #3
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Cool 95% of floor in

No need to channel floor with this flooring's thin rubber pad. The panels I got from Bruce (on IRV2) came pre-made with wires 17' long! He knew the proper sizing for our rig: 2-3'x7' and one 18"x5' and was quite helpful with my initial questions about routing, etc. Panels can come unmade, but these are almost no-brainers, assuring it'll all work and w/o the extra careful cutting and attaching the wires, then attaching other pads to seal the soldering joints. The installer shaved channels in the rubber back to lessen any pressure on the wires.

Calorique's site is not the best source forgetting the exact instructions, which vary for LVP, tile, underfloor, etc. I found the LVP-specific instructions, which mention mastic, but my installer only glues butt joints and a few end pieces that were smallish, therefore not anchored by other planks.

My installer has done many mansions (super rich). He laid a few planks at various angles (45*- 69*), so we could choose. We opted for 50 degrees, which is easier than 48; slightly harder than 45. There is a subtle impact with X-wise (coach looks shorter) or parallel ("bowling alley" [his words]). 60 was too steep, in our opinion.

Old floor removal wa a LOT of work, esp with the well glued tiles, but subfloor damage was minimal, for me. As others say, a pro is recommended, for the complex cuts involved, which also make some snap-togethers harder. This floor is quite thick and very high quality and has roughly 1/8" +/- edge perimeter gaps. The old quarter round easily covers it, being toe-nailed into the wall or a cabinet.

I agree with Bruce's comment about a manual versus programmable t-stat, as this one is a PITA to reprogram and AC power loss erases the memory! Also nice, it displays error codes if there's a short or bad connection in the panel wiring.


We prefer the rather universal color compatibility of gray, but finding lighter colored LVP, that looked great with the maple cabinets, left us twith very few choices.
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Old 05-19-2020, 03:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalepirot View Post
No need to channel floor with this flooring's thin rubber pad. The panels I got from Bruce (on IRV2) came pre-made with wires 17' long! He knew the proper sizing for our rig: 2-3'x7' and one 18"x5' and was quite helpful with my initial questions about routing, etc. Panels can come unmade, but these are almost no-brainers, assuring it'll all work and w/o the extra careful cutting and attaching the wires, then attaching other pads to seal the soldering joints. The installer shaved channels in the rubber back to lessen any pressure on the wires.

Calorique's site is not the best source forgetting the exact instructions, which vary for LVP, tile, underfloor, etc. I found the LVP-specific instructions, which mention mastic, but my installer only glues butt joints and a few end pieces that were smallish, therefore not anchored by other planks.

My installer has done many mansions (super rich). He laid a few planks at various angles (45*- 69*), so we could choose. We opted for 50 degrees, which is easier than 48; slightly harder than 45. There is a subtle impact with X-wise (coach looks shorter) or parallel ("bowling alley" [his words]). 60 was too steep, in our opinion.

Old floor removal wa a LOT of work, esp with the well glued tiles, but subfloor damage was minimal, for me. As others say, a pro is recommended, for the complex cuts involved, which also make some snap-togethers harder. This floor is quite thick and very high quality and has roughly 1/8" +/- edge perimeter gaps. The old quarter round easily covers it, being toe-nailed into the wall or a cabinet.

I agree with Bruce's comment about a manual versus programmable t-stat, as this one is a PITA to reprogram and AC power loss erases the memory! Also nice, it displays error codes if there's a short or bad connection in the panel wiring.


We prefer the rather universal color compatibility of gray, but finding lighter colored LVP, that looked great with the maple cabinets, left us twith very few choices.
Wow, that looks great. It's very similar to the "Camden Oak" we used in our old 50's era Seattle house. She loved the look...easy sell lol.
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Old 05-20-2020, 08:42 AM   #5
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sliders

An ensuing challenge will be to keep the chairs and recliner from sliding around on this slipperier floor,while driving.
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