New owner trying to come up to speed

[IWander]

We put a deposit on a 2003 40FDTS yesterday and I'm looking to come up to speed on it. It's been pretty much sitting idle for 2+ years.



I'd like to get a copy of the owners manual. Searches and stickies say to sign up with the ACA to get access. That's fine, but I don't have the VIN or title yet, so I can't sign up yet. Does anyone know of an alternate source?



I'll register here once we get our hands on it.



Two things we noticed on this particular coach are:


1) The drivers seat is far to the left of the pedals, and probably the steering column. Pretty sure we can handle this as suggested on a couple of threads - drill some new holes on the seat mounting hardware, maybe move the column over, and maybe move the pedals.


2) The brake pedal takes a LOT of force to get it to stop. I found a few threads talking about it - one owner with this problem replaced the master cylinder assembly (I'd like not to do that). Several said they fixed it by replacing the brake fluid. A few others didn't seem to have resolution.


I know the brake fluid should be flushed at least every few years, and this one probably hasn't been done since the brakes were done 6 years ago, so this is step number one as soon as we pick it up. I'd love to hear of anything else that might be causing it so I know what to be thinking about.


Thanks to all!

[Old-Biscuit]

Put a deposit down?
Hope it is refundable

Hire an RV Inspection Company and get it fully inspected to make you aware of issues/problems

Have you checked the tire Date of MFG
*List by 4 digit number on inside sidewall (Example:3206---32 second week of 2006)
Sitting for 2+ years probably needs new tires

[Camp CA]

Originally Posted by IWander

.......I'd like to get a copy of the owners manual. Searches and stickies say to sign up with the ACA to get access. That's fine, but I don't have the VIN or title yet, so I can't sign up yet. Does anyone know of an alternate source?......

Its an Alpine Coach . Here is a link to later model brochures for a start: http://cmrvs.com/alpine/brochure.pdf and https://mhsrv.com/pdfs/06_AlpineCoachApex.pdf. You will find most owners manuals to be very general, if you can find one. Suggest surveying (by yourself or certified rv inspector) the motorhome and document all the equipment, manufacturer, model and functionality (how to turn on, off, etc.) and any short comings, which you will eventually need. This is exactly how all boats are inspected pre-purchase. That is what I did for two older 55 ft boats since they both did not have an owner manual. You can also request the VIN and do a lookup to find chassis information (since the chassis manufacturer obtains the VIN), and service history, etc. Good luck.

[SafariBen]

Looks like the 2006 has standard hydraulic disc brakes, and optional air brakes. I'm assuming this one is a hydroboost brake system, hydraulic brakes much like any car or pickup, and the power brake booster is hydraulic power from the power steering pump, also like some cars and pickups. There's probably also an electric backup pump if the engine dies or the power steering fails, that should come on anytime you press the brake pedal with the engine off, you'll hear it, and feel the boost apply pressure to allow you to push the pedal down much easier.



The hydroboost is reasonably reliable, you don't see a lot of issues besides leaking. The master cylinder is more likely to be a problem, if the pedal is very hard, I'd try it with the engine off, if you don't hear an electric backup, then the brake pedal should be very hard, and not creep down toward the floor as you hold the pedal. With the engine started, it should also be firm and even, and not creep down toward the floor. If you've lost one circuit of the brakes, front or back, then the pedal will usually either go partway down with little pressure, or creep down as you hold the pedal. If the brake fluid reservoir is full, then it will be above the divider and full on both sides, meaning it hasn't leaked out externally, and is leaking/bypassing internally inside the master cylinder. The master cylinder is far from the worst thing to have to replace on an RV like this, probably $3-500. Beware that hard brakes could mean you only have half of them working! or it could mean that the booster is not effective, but I'm not sure how that would work, unless the power steering doesn't work either.

[Terry W]

The seat in my 05 is offset to the left I’m used to it and don’t notice it!

You’ll want to have the brake fluid changed, it might help the stiff pedal and is due anyhow. My pedal is fairly stiff but it seems to be normal.

I can’t speak to the master cylinder change but I believe it only helps certain years.

The ACA membership gives you access to the library and tons of info from maintenance to parts and improvements.

There is an Alpine Owners Group on Facebook, a lot of participation and and it’s very user friendly. Also plenty of pictures and quick response.

Also you’ll have the routine maintenance stuff you would do anyway,

Oil and filter, fuel filter(s), air filter, check and possible change the fluid and filters in the hydraulic reservoir for the brakes, power steering and engine fan. Lube job.

Check trans fluid and coolant.

Check tire dates.

Any other questions ask away and keep us posted on the purchase.

Terry

[andy29847]

I moved my driver’s seat to the right. It’s better but not perfect.

Brakes can be a significant issue on any vehicle with hydraulic brakes that has been sitting for a long time. I’d recommend a full wheels off brake inspection as well as a brake fluid change. Inspection will show if a corner has had issue with sticking brakes which heats up components to the point where disc crack and rubber parts melt.

A good look at the batteries is needed too.

[IWander]

Thanks for all the advice


I don't do facebook, but my partner does. I'll have her check it out.


We know it needs tires (6-7 years old, I forget which) and house batteries. We'll probably run it for a month or two more or less as-is and decide on lead acid or lithium then.


Again, thanks for the help!

[JBB-TX]

Originally Posted by IWander

We put a deposit on a 2003 40FDTS yesterday and I'm looking to come up to speed on it. It's been pretty much sitting idle for 2+ years.



I'd like to get a copy of the owners manual. Searches and stickies say to sign up with the ACA to get access. That's fine, but I don't have the VIN or title yet, so I can't sign up yet. Does anyone know of an alternate source?



I'll register here once we get our hands on it.



Two things we noticed on this particular coach are:


1) The drivers seat is far to the left of the pedals, and probably the steering column. Pretty sure we can handle this as suggested on a couple of threads - drill some new holes on the seat mounting hardware, maybe move the column over, and maybe move the pedals.


2) The brake pedal takes a LOT of force to get it to stop. I found a few threads talking about it - one owner with this problem replaced the master cylinder assembly (I'd like not to do that). Several said they fixed it by replacing the brake fluid. A few others didn't seem to have resolution.


I know the brake fluid should be flushed at least every few years, and this one probably hasn't been done since the brakes were done 6 years ago, so this is step number one as soon as we pick it up. I'd love to hear of anything else that might be causing it so I know what to be thinking about.


Thanks to all!

IWander, the link below is for my dropbox folder that contains a PDF scan of 2003 owners manual:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/ubq26...qsrqenb33&dl=0

Good luck,

[feathersjr]

Greetings IWander,
2003 is a very good year for several reasons. Last year before the Vansco system, could save you some headaches. The brake caliper must be bled from both sides which means the rear wheels must come off and since it came with DOT 3 fluid, it probably is black and may have some rusty particulate in it.
Moving the seat is not necessary as most of your driving will be on cruise control IMHO.
You can now give up all of your other hobbies because you have just bought a full time one which you will get to travel around with in between projects.

[Cinequip]

The energy to push the brake pedal is more than that for an air brake equipped coach. We've all gotten used to it, and know that standing on the brakes will stop us in fairly quick fashion. The master cylinder replacement you refer to is replacing the factory 2" dia master cylinder with a 1.75" dia. model. This gives a more car-like feel, but you still have to push hard to stop fast. I did the conversion on my '09, and was happy with the improvement in feel. It is also my understanding that the conversion was appropriate for later model coaches (not sure why). First step for you is a full, wheels off, brake flush and inspection. You can then decide if you want a bit softer brake pedal feel with the master cyl. retrofit.

Regarding house batteries, I vote for lithium. Prices have come so far down for lithium that it's almost par to lead acid, and certainly cheaper than AGM. In my book, there is no reason not to convert to lithium - only upsides. You do need to install a DC-DC charger so you don't burn up your alternator. Lithium batteries will charge at a MUCH higher amperage rate, than lead acid/agm, and the DC-DC charger reduces that rate of charge.

[Old Scout]

What Scott said--the brake master cylinder change was recommended for 2004 and newer Alpines with adjustable brake pedals vs a thru-floor pedal like your 03. Apparently, the adjustable pedals had a different geometry that reduced their mechanical advantage. Interestingly, not all late model owners complained about this issue. As recommended, you need to address the quality of the fluid first--drain and flush the system, then assess where you are.
PS--2003 Alpines rule! JMHO

[Dudley do-right]

I've got an '06 40', and had the same problem with brakes. I put in a new master cyl. with a smaller diam. piston. This increases the mechanical advantage of the pedal, also this will increase the length of the pedal throw somewhat but I couldn't notice enough distance to create a problem. This may seem counter-intuitive, but that's the way hydraulics works. While you're at it, (flushing the brake sys.} you might as well get the glaze knocked off of the rotors and see about getting some new pads that are a little "grabbier" That should take care of your brake problems, and BTW, when you're under way, it's smart to keep the engine brake engaged on high. . Dudley Do Right, '06 Alpine Apex 40' MDTS