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Old 08-05-2022, 02:07 PM   #1
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passenger brakes overheating

i was in stop and go traffic and after a while noticed my brake peddle was soft and my abs light came one. came home and noticed my passenger side rear brake rotor was toast. went ahead and replaced the rotor the pads and the caliper and took the camper on another trip about a week later. im now monitoring that side and it is defiantly hotter than the other side. is that normal? drivers side is about 170 to 200 and the passenger is almost 300 sometimes even more than that. I blead only the passenger side brake caliper as that is the only one that i replaced.
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Old 08-05-2022, 02:54 PM   #2
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You’ve got the right forum avatar (Artemisprime), there’s NO way I’d tackle that job. I envy your abilities & initiative!
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Old 08-05-2022, 03:05 PM   #3
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Can't tell, but if you have a rubber hose between the line and caliper, it may be bad.
They sometimes breakdown internally, creating a restriction like a check valve, causing the caliper to drag.
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Old 08-05-2022, 03:28 PM   #4
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Did you clean and lube the caliper slides? Are the bearings adjusted correctly?
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Old 08-05-2022, 03:55 PM   #5
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The caliper doesn't have slides the brake pads just move on the bracket. also I'm not sure about the bearing. i tightened the inner bolt by hand and snugged it up with a ratchet but the outer one i tightened to 300 ft lbs.
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Old 08-05-2022, 03:58 PM   #6
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The caliper doesn't have slides the brake pads just move on the bracket.

Sorry, since we don't know what year Alpine you have we can not automatically ASSUME that.


Early Alpines did have sliding calipers, later models fixed calipers.


Pistons on ONE or BOTH sides of the calipers???
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Old 08-05-2022, 04:04 PM   #7
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its a 2000 alpine 36 FSD. im still trying to figure out how to add that into my bio so everyone can see. and it has two pistons per caliper but both of the pistons are on the same side of the caliper. you can see the caliper on the second photo
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Old 08-05-2022, 04:58 PM   #8
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My coach is a 2001. I had to completely redo the brakes in my first year of ownership (2017/2018). My rotors were cracked, some of the abs sensors were melted, and the brakes were sticking. The cause of the sticking (I believe) was corrosion and gunk from the brake fluid that had been sitting in the system for years. Even after I changed the rotors, calipers, fluid and pads, I would notice a wheel running hot (much like you describe). The first time after the brake job that I went to change the brake fluid, the driver's rear would not bleed. Then I noticed that the rotor on that side was rusty - obviously the brakes were not working on that wheel. I went to a shop with a computer and the Cummins software, and the analysis found that one of the solenoids in the ABS modulator was not working. The modulater was replaced and I have not had any trouble since then. I offer this only as my experience. Youir situation does not seem to exactly match mine. I would encourage you to bleed the brake system until you have all new fluid. When you do that, inspect the rotors to verigy that all wheels have been working.

The braking system on our coaches is proven and reliable (on school busses and medium duty trucks) as long as it get regular use. Unfortunatly, RVs tend not to be used for long periods of time, which contributes to the brake fluid/corrosion issue. It is considered good practice to change the brake fluid at 2 year intervals.

After studying the layout of the brake sustem on our coaches, I decided that it didn't matter which wheel you worked on first. The first wheel will take at least a big bottle of fluid to get new fluid into the master cylinder and the line ot the ABS modulater. After that, you are just clearing the line to each wheel.

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Old 08-05-2022, 05:16 PM   #9
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im still trying to figure out how to add that into my bio so everyone can see.
What you want to add is a Signature that will show up on all posts if you have the "Show Signatures" option set in your User CP. Here is some information on how to add a signature.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f62/foru...ml#post3101035
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Old 08-05-2022, 07:02 PM   #10
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Have you cleaned the caliper slides? Lubed with anti-seize or high temp grease?


With the sliding caliper design used on early model coaches, this is really important to allow the "lazy side" to retract from the disk.
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