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Old 03-27-2019, 09:36 PM   #29
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Thanks Tommy. Iím going to order the bushings.

I havenít dealt with Radiator Supply House in Sweet Home, OR. It may be worth a call to see what their price would be. Their number is in my contacts, Iím sure from a reference on the forum.
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Old 03-27-2019, 09:54 PM   #30
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Thanks Bob! Iíll give them a call tomorrow. rrthorís story of his Macís radiator failing after 15K miles has me worried about a steel tank/copper core replacement. This post hasnít gotten much feedback from those with the Macís replacement or RS replacement and track record of each. Kind of hard to deduct which is the better option for the long run. I certainly donít want to be doing this again any time soon...
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Old 03-27-2019, 11:04 PM   #31
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As Old Scout mentioned, not many know failures with the replacement radiators. I may have read one and it was after 80-100K miles.

Failed epoxy seams were the cause of most early failures. Possibly aggravated by improper bushing installation. RS stopped using that method of fabrication after a ďrelativelyĒ short time period. RS may be the safest choice?
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:09 AM   #32
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Radiator

Quote:
Originally Posted by HamboneTHW View Post
Iím assuming theyíre in correctly, as the original was replaced.


Assuming will get you into trouble.

About 8 - 10 years ago there were a lot of radiator replacements in the 04-06 range, that means there were multiple threads here, IIRC it was 4 or 5 threads, some even with pictures , several discussed the mounts that were discovered to have been installed wrong from the factory and the mount issue was not discovered until later on. I believe once the mount issue was identified and they were installed correctly the replacement radiators lasted.
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Old 03-28-2019, 09:29 AM   #33
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DrDave, Iíll do some more digging after work. When you say mounts, youíre referring to the bushings, correct? Seems to me there is only one way for the actual radiator to fit in there, as well as only one logical way for the frame mounts to connect to the mounting tabs on the radiator itself.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:08 PM   #34
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Ok folks, so I have a quote from Radiator Supply House for a steel tank/copper core replacement and a quote from Source Engineering for an all-aluminum replacement. The difference in price is about $500, with the steel and copper being more expensive.

If you were in my position, which route would you go?
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:13 PM   #35
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The copper should have a 500 Dollar or more core value

If that is already in the quote copper

Copper will exchange heat better as well but is a but heavier
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:12 PM   #36
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So I got Macís quote back and itís only $250 more than the aluminum. For the repairable aspect of the steel tank/copper core, I think itís a no brainer for the marginal extra cost.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:35 AM   #37
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Does anyone know total coolant capacity for the coolant system on the 2005 with the Cummins 400HP ISL? I figure if theyíre draining the system, I might as well put new coolant in.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-29-2019, 09:45 AM   #38
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Does anyone know total coolant capacity for the coolant system on the 2005 with the Cummins 400HP ISL? I figure if theyíre draining the system, I might as well put new coolant in.

Thanks in advance.
10 gallons, according to the manual.
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Old 03-29-2019, 10:14 AM   #39
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Bob, I read that as well, but I recall someone on the forum mentioning 14 gallons total. Didnít know if anyone had done a flush lately.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:19 AM   #40
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Agree, there may have been mention of 12-13 gallons in some posts. Itís going to take at least 10. Ordering 14-15 should give you plenty and you can return what you done need.
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:08 PM   #41
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Agree, there may have been mention of 12-13 gallons in some posts. Itís going to take at least 10. Ordering 14-15 should give you plenty and you can return what you done need.

OR, better yet, order 1/2 the volume of CONCENTRATE. Lots easier to achieve a 50/50 mixture after using distilled water for final rinse.


Drain last rinse. Add 1/2 volume of concentrate and top off with distilled water. You really don't care if it takes 1 gallon of water or 5. The amount will be dependent on how much is in the hoses to/from the dash heater core and the core itself.


Only way to achieve 50/50 with pre-dilute is to take loose a line and blow out all coolant in the lines/heater core. And you still may have a little residual distilled water in the engine block.
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Old 03-29-2019, 03:22 PM   #42
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On mine if you drain the radiator, drain the engine block, blow out the heater hoses and heater core and drain the long steel crossover pipe it takes 14 gallons to refill.

Since there now are various radiator designs installed over the years its still just an estimate for your coach.
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