Community Forums

Retiredfields · 12-09-2008, 07:46 AM

I met with Paul Sullivan yesterday to take a look at his new radiator and the anti-vibration bushings. The bushings require a 1"+ hole in the lower radiator support brackets. The lower brackets on the new radiator are double thickness and have a side gusset for additional support. I do not see any way to modify the old style lower brackets to accept the rubber bushings. Trying to drill a 1"+ hole would probably tear them apart and leave too little metal left for proper support.

Has anyone modified their old style radiator to add some type of anti-vibration to the lower mounts? If so, please advise what was done.

Retiredfields · 12-09-2008, 07:46 AM

I met with Paul Sullivan yesterday to take a look at his new radiator and the anti-vibration bushings. The bushings require a 1"+ hole in the lower radiator support brackets. The lower brackets on the new radiator are double thickness and have a side gusset for additional support. I do not see any way to modify the old style lower brackets to accept the rubber bushings. Trying to drill a 1"+ hole would probably tear them apart and leave too little metal left for proper support.

Has anyone modified their old style radiator to add some type of anti-vibration to the lower mounts? If so, please advise what was done.

Nick Escamilla · 12-09-2008, 05:46 PM

Ken I'm assuming that the 3/8" all thread that needs the bushing are the ones going at an angle and mounting to the frame. Could you install a bushing on the frame side and get the same effect? Did you take a picture? A picture sure would clear a lot of confusion. I ordered the bushing and waiting for their arrival. Drilling a 1" hole on the radiator bracket would not be easy and you run the risk of damaging the radiator trying to prevent damage from vibration.

Wayne R · 12-10-2008, 06:21 AM

Why not just bolt another piece of metal to the existing bracket to accommodate the bushing.

Retiredfields · 12-10-2008, 07:04 AM

Nick,

Here are the pics of the new mount (credit to Sully for the pics).

As you can see, the new mount has a doubler on the back and is bent to form a gusset on the side.

As Wayne suggests, one could add a new, thicker, piece approx. 3" x 5", with a 1/2" hole on one side to bolt to the existing mount and a 1" hole on the other to accept the bushing. I don't know if the new angle on the threaded rod would be a problem. The bracket on Sully's old radiator snapped completely off, so there must be some fairly large stresses there.

Did you order the bushings from Mission Supply in Texas? Any ideas?

quikduk · 12-10-2008, 07:05 AM

Exactly. You would have to check your clearances but a couple of pieces of welded steel angle/plate/flat bar could give you what you need.

If the clearances are tight, the existing mounts could be cut and re-welded to accomodate your rubber isolation mounts. It isn't too difficult. You just need to take it slowly during the redesign and be or have access to a good welder (person, not machine).

I modified my receiver hitch and had my FIL help me re-weld everything to better than GS factory "standards".

Nick Escamilla · 12-10-2008, 05:36 PM

Thanks Ken and Paul for the pictures.
The pictures are easy to see without explanation. I did order the bushings from Mission Supply. When I crawl under my rig and remove one bracket I will see what I'm faced with, extending the bracket my be an alternative.
Paul I got your 2 pictures in my email, thanks again.
Nick

Old Scout · 12-11-2008, 04:49 PM

As someone pointed out earlier in this thread, it may be "good enough" to just isolate the threaded rod with std rubber bushings and washers/lock-nuts--avoids the need for a 1" hole in the radiator frame/tab.

The rear-most threaded rod on my 2003 is slightly bent. I always attributed this bend to the "precise alignment" specifications used by WRV engineers during assembly. In retrospect, it might have been a vicious "Wal-Mart wobble" event early in my driving experience [ie, I hit/scraped the back-end of the coach/radiator assembly going in/coming out of a parking lot dip]. Long-term vibrations or a Wal-Mart wobble--either could account for a broken radiator frame/tab.

John Strauss · 12-23-2008, 10:49 AM

I'm wondering if you couldn't cut the all thread into and make take out or leave about a 1/4 to 1/2 gap and put a piece of high pressure hose over the all-thread, clamped on both side of the all-thread and fix the vibration problem. You would need to remove the frameside all-thread piece to slip the hose on I'm sure. You could easily monitor this fix and replace he hose if needed.

Dale777 · 08-19-2009, 09:08 PM

Although this is an old thread, it seems to be inconclusive. Has anyone found a way to install anti-vibration bushings on the mounts for the original factory radiator that is inclined to leak?

My radiator is in the build range of those that fail, but has not done so even though I have 27,500 miles and 3 years 3 months on it. I would like to install antii-vibration bushings if at all possible.

Birddog Pilot · 08-21-2009, 02:20 PM

Ken -
My expensive new radiator from Mac's, Portland, OR, has rubber dampeners, but not nearly as thick as the one in your picture. Do you know where in Texas, and which Mission Supply, Paul found these? There are a zillion Mission Supplys listed for Texas.