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Old 08-15-2022, 05:05 PM   #1
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Rear Hydraulic Canister Hose Leaking Bad

I have a 2006 Apex which has been in storage for sometime due to Covid. No, the coach didn't have Covid but much of the country did. In checking all systems out prior to listing it for sale, the very large hose from the very large canister in the right rear of the engine compartment decided to spring a leak. A hydraulic shop technician made a house call and removed the hose and is replacing it in their shop. I should have it back in a couple of days. The front HWH hydraulic tank appears to still be close to full although I did not run appropriate slides to accurately measure it. I figured I shouldn't make matters worse. I know the back Canister has three filters in it. ??? Is that back Canister a reserve backup supply for only the HWH system or does it have other purposes like braking, etc. Also, when it is repaired, will I need a pump of sorts to get new Rikon very expensive fluid back into the back Canister before I top off the front HWH reservoir? Sorry for such elementary questions but trying to get it repaired so I can get it to Cummins Coach Care to have everything checked out for the yet to be found new owner. Thanks!
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Old 08-15-2022, 06:08 PM   #2
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Hey Marca, the HWH system in front and the rear reservoir are totally separate systems--HWH is for slides and jacks; rear system is for motor fan, power steering and power brake [boost only, not brake fluid]. WRV use several different types of fluid in the rear system over the years. Most owners have opted to use regular AW46 hydraulic fluid rather than more "exotic" fluids.
PS--the rear system hold about 3 gal in reservoir--up to you whether to change filters and fluid or just top off with Rikon [if still available]...Most hydraulic fluids are compatible so a bit of mixing doesnt really matter that much--IMHO.
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Old 08-16-2022, 04:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
Hey Marca, the HWH system in front and the rear reservoir are totally separate systems--HWH is for slides and jacks; rear system is for motor fan, power steering and power brake [boost only, not brake fluid]. WRV use several different types of fluid in the rear system over the years. Most owners have opted to use regular AW46 hydraulic fluid rather than more "exotic" fluids.
PS--the rear system hold about 3 gal in reservoir--up to you whether to change filters and fluid or just top off with Rikon [if still available]...Most hydraulic fluids are compatible so a bit of mixing doesnt really matter that much--IMHO.
Thanks Old Scout! Good to hear from you. Sure glad I didn't try to get it to a repair shop. It still had a great deal of fluid in the tank until the tech removed the hose but it was starting to split and who knows what could have been ruined. I have about six gallons of Rikon on hand but wish I could change the filters before putting it in. What prompted me to ask the question was my remembering it was connected to the brakes in some manner other than the DOT fluid. Take care!
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Old 08-16-2022, 08:20 PM   #4
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Marca,
If you drain the tank to replace the hose, it's simple to replace those filters. haven't done mine lately, but IIRC, they are not too expensive.
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Old 08-18-2022, 06:12 AM   #5
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Hi Jeff and Cheryl, I was looking for a simple way to change the filters and have a young man who works with large tractor repair willing to come to my home to help me get new fluid back in it after rhe hose is back in place. Would you mind sharing the easy way to change the filters as the canister is definitely empty now? When we had it done years ago, I do remember the filters were not really expensive and would like to do it right since I plan to use the Rikon I have on hand and it is $$$expensive. Thanks in advance for your help. I appreciate it!
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Old 08-18-2022, 09:18 AM   #6
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Dont know about "simple" but if the tank is drained, its a simple process to change out the filters. Just remove top of canister, remove wing-nut, spring and washer, be careful not to drop in tank, then install new filters--easy. Nelson 84220A filers [3], might be available at Cummins or as a cross-reference at NAPA. Cummins filters usually come in a box of 6 but you only need 3...
PS--careful when removing the dip-stick--its threaded so just loosen with a few turns and remove.
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Old 08-18-2022, 12:28 PM   #7
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Thanks Old Scout for sharing your expertise with me and my RV rookie repairmen here. Difficult to find a mobile repair service where I am but I have several volunteers willing to help. I will try to find the filters and will relay your instructions to them. I also remember the technician who serviced it previously said the knob on top of the canister was missing but he had found something to use in place of it. I wonder if that was the dipstick. Guess we will find out. The coach is at my house and I am trying to get it to Cummins Crosspoint Coach Care in Mishawaka IN to get it properly serviced. Thanks and have a great day!
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Old 08-19-2022, 07:37 AM   #8
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Maybe this picture will help on some of your questions.

On the top of the canister, the chrome “knob” is actually just a breather filter. It can be removed and washed out with solvent, dried and then reused. NAPA has them for replacement if needed.

The black nob is the dip stick for checking your hydraulic fluid level. Turn the nob a few turns to loosen it before pulling it out. It may feel stuck at first so work it easy.

Before you start changing the filters clean the outside well with a solvent or cleaner. At the top side of the canister is the band clamp. There are two bolts, the other is on the opposite side of the one pictured here. Loosen these bolts most of the way and then lightly tap on the clamp to release it. There is a tapered o ring in the seam where the cap meets the canister. Be careful as you separate them since the o ring will need to be reused.

As Old Scout detailed, the wing nut is on the top of the post on the inside of the canister. After it is removed , you can pull each filter out. They are marked this side bottom as I recall. Place the new filters in and reverse the steps. When I changed my main hydraulic hose, it took approx. 4 gallons. Do not over fill. Start and run the steering wheel lock to lock several times to purge the system and then recheck the level.

I am sure your mechanic friend can help you get it done. Good luck!

BTW We think Wabash is a neat town.
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Old 08-21-2022, 05:58 PM   #9
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Thanks, Bruce for the detailed instructions.
The Hydraulic Hose Shop Technician will be here tomorrow morning to replace the hose. I picked up the filters from NAPA here in Wabash. Ordered them one afternoon and they were here the next morning. Now I have to talk to my volunteer repairmen and see when they are willing to attempt the rest of the job. I did find a Mobile Hydraulic Repairman as a backup who will travel here in a couple of weeks to do the filters, if they choose not to attempt it. My guess is they will do it. I did have one question though. What did you mean by "Start and run the steering wheel lock to lock several times to purge the system and then recheck the level"? I know what the steering wheel lock is but can't figure out what that will do to purge the system.
I am glad you think Wabash is a neat town. I was born here and after traveling all over the country for 30 years ended up retiring here. Should you folks get back through here, I have a full RV hookup back of my house if you would like to stop in.
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Old 08-22-2022, 07:52 AM   #10
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Maybe the better term would be from stop to stop. You want to cycle the steering full swing from all the way left to right 2-3 times so any air is purged thru the hoses and you have the correct final fluid level.

We will keep you in mind if we pass by Wabash. Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2022, 07:54 AM   #11
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I replied to your private message but think I lost it. Let me know if you did not receive it. Thanks again for all your help!
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