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Old 11-22-2020, 07:44 PM   #1
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Refer not working

Our coach has been in hibernation for just over a year. Fired it up today to get ready to go visit the grand kids and the refrigerator won't work, No lights, no inside light, no on off lights, Nothing! I learned a trick a few yrs ago to jump wire and bypass the control panel. I did that and the refer is starting to cool down but i can't leave it like this. (can only do it for a day or 2) On the black and white 120V i have no power from the circuit board. Am i to assume the Board is done for? If not what other test can i do?
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Old 11-22-2020, 08:10 PM   #2
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I’m not a refer expert, but it might help the experts if they knew the make and model. If it’s a propane/electric Dometic you’ll need 12V to run on propane and both 12V and 120V to run on AC.
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:00 PM   #3
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Refer not working Part 2

Sorry I didn' say what i had as far as my Refrigerator is concerned: it's a Dometic side by side Propane and electric with ice maker. No where can i find the 12 circuit and out of the 120 v side i am getting NO 120 Volts either. I jumper wired it and its getting cooler just not thru the circuitry it seems.
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:02 PM   #4
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Start by pulling out your voltmeter and confirming 12+ VDC to the refrigerator (open outside access door).


The PC board runs on 12 VDC irrespective of "heat" source. Said another way, in addition to propane or 120 VAC as a heat source, you need 12 VDC to run it.
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:25 PM   #5
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Refer not working Part 2

After pulling the black plastic cover from the circuit board i can see nowhere a 12 v circuit. I have 2 120 V glass fuses but nothing else. Is it within the circuit board? Or do i have to pull the refer out because its behind it somewhere?
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:49 PM   #6
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Outside compartment -- backside of fridge

12VDC (Pos/Neg) from a FUSED DC Source (DC Dist Panel, DC Fuse panel etc) goes to terminal block/directly to fridge circuit board
Fridge MUST have 12VDC in order for either 120VAC electric OR propane functions. Circuit board uses DC for controls etc

First you need to VERIFY you have DC to fridge
Then you need to verify if you have a High Temp Trip Switch on burner stack...if tripped NO DC to circuit board...no fridge workie
IF you have DC ---then need to Verify if DC Fuse on Circuit Board is blown.....test it not Look at it (DC Fuse will be a Auto Blade Type Fuse.
** The Glass fuse is the AC circuit fuse

W/O DC you will NOT have 120VAC from circuit board to electric element cause DC operates the AC Relay on circuit board

AND it would be most helpful to post the MODEL number of that side by side Dometic
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Old 11-22-2020, 10:00 PM   #7
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I believe you have the same refrigerator as I have, a NDR 1402 (not the NDA model.) If so, use this link to the installation manual.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/ndr1292.pdf

Go to page 3 and look at the diagram of the rear side to find the 12v connection block. Then, follow Old-Biscuit’s suggestions.

There is a wiring diagram on the last page (16) of the manual as well.

If you have no 12v at the connecting block, there is likely a dedicated fuse for the refer in the battery bay, on the wall above the batteries. That’s the way my 2004 is wired, but yours may differ. Regardless, the 12v to the refer is wired directly from the house batteries, by-passing all cut-off switches and always has power.
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Old 11-23-2020, 09:43 AM   #8
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If fridge is an NDR then it uses a 'universal circuit board'....fits NUMEROUS Models
It DOES use glass fuses
One is a 3A DC Fuse F1 position (far left side-vertical)
Other is a 5A AC Fuse F2 position (mid-center-horizontal)


**Model numbers are important in identifying proper components/functions
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Old 11-23-2020, 10:50 AM   #9
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Smile Refer not working Part 2

Well, I found the problem. Thanks to you guys you pointed me in the right direction. In the Battery bay, upper left, is a fuse block with 5-6 fuse receivers (2 being used) the last one on the right side was the culprit. it was NASTY with corrosion so maybe 4-5 volts and by the time it got to the fridg was no voltage. cleaned and scraped
got it working but am headed to NAPA to buy a new fuse block.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR HELPING AND POINTING ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!!!!





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Old 11-23-2020, 11:14 AM   #10
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Grab a variety pack of those fuses while youíre there.
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenlsn View Post
Well, I found the problem. Thanks to you guys you pointed me in the right direction. In the Battery bay, upper left, is a fuse block with 5-6 fuse receivers (2 being used) the last one on the right side was the culprit. it was NASTY with corrosion so maybe 4-5 volts and by the time it got to the fridg was no voltage. cleaned and scraped
got it working but am headed to NAPA to buy a new fuse block.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR HELPING AND POINTING ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!!!!





Glad I could help, and it's nice to know the fuses were located in the same location on your coach as my 2004.

BTW, I've got a good friend who just bought a home in Wickenburg. Nice, historic house, advertised as Rancho Sombrero when it was for sale.
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Old 11-23-2020, 09:54 PM   #12
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Wow.
Is this an awesome forum or what?
15 hours from problem to solution.
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Old 11-24-2020, 10:49 AM   #13
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Refer not working Part 2

I decided it build a water tight box holding the fuse block. I got a 4x4 blue plastic electrical box. sealed up all the knock out plugs and put my fuse block inside. Made a water tight gasket for the cover and there we have a water tight fuse block enclosed.
Thanks again for all your help in finding my problem and pointing me in the right direction. YOU GUYS ROCK!
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Old 11-24-2020, 11:30 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Davenlsn View Post
I decided it build a water tight box holding the fuse block. I got a 4x4 blue plastic electrical box. sealed up all the knock out plugs and put my fuse block inside. Made a water tight gasket for the cover and there we have a water tight fuse block enclosed.
Thanks again for all your help in finding my problem and pointing me in the right direction. YOU GUYS ROCK!
Kudos to YOU!
Good idea about that water tight box

Too bad RV MFGs can't think thru a potential issue and solve it
Course if they did they would tack on an additional $200 charge for water intrusion
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