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Greg from Pittsburgh · 07-19-2015, 07:40 AM

I have a domestic "new horizon" 2door 2 way fridge that has stopped cooling. I have checked the following: gas supply, ac current, heat from the heating elements and fuses. The unit was working better than it ever has until yesterday morning when I noticed water coming from the drain under the RV, there was a lot of ice build up on the cooling fins and I intended the defrost the unit today. I never smelled ammonia so I don't think I've got a leak but I don't hear any gurgling when I switch the unit on after letting it cool down. Is there anything else I should check?

wolfe10 · 07-19-2015, 08:01 AM

Greg,

Same symptoms on propane and shore power/generator?

That will tell you which "heat source" may be out. If it works on neither, the cooling unit would be the "likely suspect".

Remember the refrigerator PC board is 12 VDC, so a quick check of voltage at the outside access area would be another good check.

Brett

Greg from Pittsburgh · 07-19-2015, 08:16 AM

Bret
Thanks for the quick reply. I checked the 12 volt supply and its good. Guess it's the cooling unit, wishing I could pin point the problem a little more precisely in case there is a repair I can do. I looked in the tech library for a repair Manuel but no luck

wolfe10 · 07-19-2015, 01:25 PM

Greg,

It can take up to 24 hours for an absorption refrigerator to fully cool down. Yes, after an hour or so, you can start feeling the back of the freezer starting to cool down.

I would sure try it on both heat sources before concluding that the cooling unit is bad.

120 VAC: Plug another appliance into the outlet the refrigerator is plugged into to verify that you do have 120 VAC to that outlet. There is also a fuse for the 120 VAC on the PC board. So, sources of failure on the 120 VAC side would be: outlet with no voltage, fuse on PC board bad, heater element. None of these are expensive.

Now for propane: If you see a flame it is working, though a low flame will produce less cooling than one that is the correct size. If not, there are some simple "tune-up" steps that can be done with simple hand tools. Your refrigerator owners manual should cover this. But if questions, feel free to post.

Brett

Rich and Cork · 07-19-2015, 06:11 PM

If it is the original, it is probably the cooling unit. I think 12 years is about an avarage for life.....that is how long mine lasted. Replaced 2-3 years ago. Figure about $2K for coil replacement.

TheOldMan76 · 07-23-2015, 01:39 PM

Your RV refrigerator requires 4 things to work. #1 - it must be level. If you try to operate it in a non-level position, you are going to shorten it's life drastically. If the camper is not level - level it up before going any further! #2
it requires a source of heat. Either 120v or propane. It also requires 12v dc to operate the control board. If you have the camper level, and it doesn't cool, disconnect the 120v leads for the AC heater, and using a jumper with a couple of alligator clips, direct wire the heater to 120v. In a couple of hours, the boiler and the condensor should be about the same warm temperature, and you should be experiencing some cooling. if not, check the resistance of the heater itself. If the heater reads open, replace it. If it reads good, your cooling unit is shot. If you are getting some cooling, Look at the fuses on the power board. Last but not least, there must be adequate ventilation, make sure nothing is disturbing the "chimney effect" of the ventilation system. Good Luck!