Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggbert
Thanks andy29847. What's the best way to investigate any potential conditions on the pink wire? Anything I can check with a multi-meter or power probe?
A replacement fuse block with 14+ circuits, common power source, and screw terminals all on one side seems to be a very tall order. I was curious what solutions others had come up with. I will post mine when complete.
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I did a quick google search for 16 way fuse blocks before I made my first post. I got pages of results. Based on that, I made my recommendation. I tried the search again before posting this answer. I actually looked at the results this time. My "pages of results" were mostly 12 - way blocks.
Sorry for the confusion.
I searched again and using "RV fuse block 16 way" and found one. The link is below. Possibly the 2-Blue Sea blocks would be a better option.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27503870960...-53481-19255-0
Regarding your possible 12v load issues.... I have found that the 12v wiring on my Alpine coach is sub-standard. Because of this, I have been bad mouthing the Western RV engineers, inspectors, and electrical installers for several years.
My complaints are mostly about the labels being wrong on the fuse panel, and poor wire splicing in the coach. A loose (high resistance) connection in an electrical circuit draws excess current and generates heat. The "burnout" on your panel could have been caused by a loose connection somewhere in the coach or a problem with the block itself. Loose connections are hard to find with a meter. I would attempt to trace the pink and purple circuits, and examine the splices along the way. It won't be easy. I do not have any documentation on the 12v circuits in the coach.
One of the problems I have had was that my furnace and water pump worked intermittently. You can see from the photo above that the furnace was supposed to be on line 2, and the water pump on line 6. Believing that I was having trouble on 2 circuits affected my approach to the problem. After a couple of days (really
), I realized that the furnace and the water pump were on the same circuit. I eventually traced the circuit to a splice under the refrigerator. The splice, made at the factory, consisted of stranded wires twisted together, wrapped with electrical tape, and strapped to the floor. The splice was corroded and broke apart when I unwrapped it.
In your situation, as you install the new block, I would try to determine what works on the pink circuit and the on the violet circuit. I would focus on the pink circuit, since it seems to be the one that was moved from the burned terminal.
Good luck!