Ridges on Roof (and cracking)

[LA1]

I have several ridges on my roof where the aluminum frame is pushing up on the fiberglass, and they're starting to crack. The ridges are about 1/2 in. (or so) higher than the rest of the roof. I've had several WRV service reps tell me that the solution is to grind the frame and lay down another layer of fiberglass. During my last visit to WRV (3 years ago) I was told that it wasn't a problem as long as the roof wasn't cracking. Now that it is, I'd really like to hear from other owners who have experienced similar problems (one service rep seemed to indicate that this was not an uncommon repair job...)

Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated. I'm on my way back up to Yakima this summer.

[LA1]

I have several ridges on my roof where the aluminum frame is pushing up on the fiberglass, and they're starting to crack. The ridges are about 1/2 in. (or so) higher than the rest of the roof. I've had several WRV service reps tell me that the solution is to grind the frame and lay down another layer of fiberglass. During my last visit to WRV (3 years ago) I was told that it wasn't a problem as long as the roof wasn't cracking. Now that it is, I'd really like to hear from other owners who have experienced similar problems (one service rep seemed to indicate that this was not an uncommon repair job...)

Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated. I'm on my way back up to Yakima this summer.

[Gary Arnold]

2 1/2 years these ridges started showing up on our coach but no cracks.






The ridges extend the full width of the roof and are on 4 foot centers front to rear. These ridges are located where plywood is butted against each other under the fiberglass sheet.

While under warranty I took it into WRV and they ground 4 of the worst ridges and appears to have poured resin in the area. I do not know if hey used any fiberglass as within 4 months one developed a 2 inch crack and 1 year later another has a 7 inch crack. To prevent moisture from entering the roof I ran a bead of calk down each crack.

I would grade WRV's repair as a "D"�. They re-painted the repairs white and there was overspray in several areas (top of AC covers, roof radiuses, tops of front mirrors).

[LA1]

That is exactly what I have...and it's the first time I've seen this condition on another roof...every other alpine coach I've seen (i've been looking) has been perfectly flat...I'd really like to know why...were (are) they using different manufacturing methods?

...do you know of other owners with similar problems?

In all of my conversations with WRV they have always mentioned a repair involving a new fiberglass roof not the method you described. (which strikes me as worthy of a D grade.)

I'd really appreciate the opportunity to communicate with owners who have had the repair job involving a new sheet of fiberglass...

during my last visit to WRV, they agreed (in writing!) to replace the roof if cracks develop...

...any insights and experiences into how to deal with any resistance from them...and how to negotiate and ensure reasonable repair work would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2001 36'.

[Jeff_S]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Gary A.:
2 1/2 years these ridges started showing up on our coach but no cracks.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Gary does it again!!

I think there is more of a shine on his roof than on the sides of my coach!!
(probably not, but that roof sure is shiny!)

[EngineerMike]

IMO grinding the aluminum frame is not intelligent. I beleive the alum members are hollow tubing, and you'd be grinding near or beyond the full depth of the upper surface of the alum tube to get to a flat roof condition. That completely changes the structural profile of the tube to a channel which is a lot more bendy.
IIWM, I'd take the strip of fiberglass off the top of the ridge, use a resin-based fairing compound to ease the edges of the ridge smooth into the field of the roof, then lay a new fiberglass sheet over the top and laminate it down to the roof with about 4" overlap onto the old roof on each edge (maybe a 24" wide repair patch overall). That will still leave a ridge of sorts but it should be a permanently watertight solution for the cracks which are the only real problem, and not be unsightly. The final patch edges would need sanding/buffing when fiberglass is cured, and linear polyurethane paint would be a good finish. As long as the cracks don't continue onto the roll of the eaves where the repair would be visible, this should be a competent repair.

[Tom and Patty]

Do you think Gary polishes it too much?


I've thought of painting my roof EM, but what about upkeep? Any LP paint?

[Gary Arnold]

The roof was very shiny back then.

This picture was taken when the coach was 1 1/2 years old. Now after 4 years of constant exposure to UV rays the gel coat on the fiberglass is flat (no more shine). I'll probably wait another 6 years and paint the white portion of the roof.

[Jeff_S]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Gary A.:
I'll probably wait another 6 years and paint the white portion of the roof. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I recently installed 2 solar panels on our roof and before setting them in place, took some fiberglass cleaner/polish (from West Marine) to the flat dull roof where the panels were going to be mounted.

It was about 105 degrees (in the shade), so I didn't have much patience doing the roof cleaning, but I was shocked how nice the roof looked after just some quick elbow grease with the cleaner. Using a buffer, it could look as good as your 1.5 year old shine. (it's just not that high of a priority)

Ultimately, re-painting is probably not necessary.

[Bigsky]

I have a 2004, 40'FDTS and found ridges with cracks on the roof today when I went up to install 360 degreee swivel tops on the holding tank vents. Sent pictures to Mark via e-mail and am waiting for a reply. How was the situation handled for the people with similar problems on this thread?? Appreciate a fill in.
Can add a picture(s)if I had some instructions on how to get it done!!

thanks
Al

[takepride]

Hey BigSky,

I just sent you a private mail (PM) to explain photo posting. Check the flashing icon at the top of the page (any page on the forums).

[rmmpe]

If it were me, I'd take the simple way out.
Go to HD and buy a sheet of fiberglass panel (cost about $28.00 per 48" by 96" by 0.100 thick pebble-grain sheet). Cut it into 8" wide strips and, using 2-part epoxy, secure it to the roof over the areas needing attention with the butt-joint in the center of the roof. When curving the strip at the edges, use a heat gun to soften the plastic so it will curve properly. Then, as Mike says, fair it at the edges.
Not only would this avoid grinding anything away and weakening the roof, the laminating would reinforce the roof in the areas strips are applied.

[Dave & Colleen]

Takepride
I'm new to this formand also am having opportunities try'g to get a photo inserted. Also if you know how to make this font here as I type larger. Would you explain it to me also? Thanks
Dave

[takepride]

Dave:

I just sent you a Private Message (PM). Click the flashing icon at the top of any forum page.