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06-27-2018, 09:06 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
Most vehicles left unoccupied shouldn't be damaged by atmospheric humidity. If you have power, you could close up the RV and use a dehumidifier, but I just park it without power and leave cabinets, refrigerator, and closets open a bit so air can circulate.
Keeping the RV closed up is when heat on one side and shade on the other could allow moisture to collect and start mold or mildew. I've had cabin cruisers and RVs for over 40 years and never left one stored all buttoned up. Never had a mold or mildew problem either.
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Have you ever tried that on the gulf coast in the summer?
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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06-27-2018, 09:31 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac-1
Have you ever tried that on the gulf coast in the summer?
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Lake Guntersville, AL, Northern Chesapeake Bay, Cincinnati, OH on the Ohio River.
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Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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06-28-2018, 11:01 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,957
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I have an '04 and have the original air conditioners on the roof. Other than replacing the shroud a couple of times on the front A/C, they have required no service.
When the outside temps approach 100 degrees, the front A/C tends to run pretty much full time. The rear one cycles from time to time. But they keep the coach comfortably in the mid-70's most of the time. MCD shades help a lot too!
There is a really old thread from this forum that deals with issues with gaps where the A/C units are attached to the air ducts in the ceiling. Not all of the cooled air was getting to the ducts, and therefore not to the coach where it is needed. It was just going right back into the A/C return air.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/fyi-...ning-9583.html
It might be worth your while to check for this condition in your coach. It made a big difference in helping to keep my coach cooler with much better air flow.
My other suggestion would be to move to a dry climate!
__________________
Jim A
'04 Alpine Coach 36' MDDS
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06-30-2018, 08:03 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 836
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Jim is right on the money in my experience. Last year with our son & his wife temporarily living in the motorhome while parked in the garage I observed some rattling noises. My investigation turned into a bit of a "tune-up" on both AC units.
The rattling noise was coming from the sheet metal pieces that comprise the air chamber on top. It was originally taped with foil tape which had been comprised by age. Everything was re-taped.
The covers were in bad shape so ordered & replaced them. Interestingly, the foam seals under the covers was also compromised by age and ?. The foam strips that come with the covers is important because it serves to direct outside air through the condenser (all the finned stuff). We also had to straight many of the fins to promote good air flow.
Inside the coach we discovered just how bad the sheet metal was in separating the hot air from the cold air. There were big gaps where the sheet metal ducts come together between the AC unit and ceiling duct. We had to bend some of it just to get it close enough to tape. We taped all cracks with foil tape.
The results are much quieter ac units and improved air flow. You can only expect these AC units to cool the outside air by approximately 30 degrees. So, when it's really hot here in AZ (like 110 or greater) the inside will cool down to 80's or so. Extreme heat or cold temperatures are just not friends of motorhomes. Our coach is 40' which makes for more space to cool or heat. Jim's coach is 36' so that helps.
If you've never had your AC units "Tuned-up" as I described, give a shot. It's really not a difficult DIY project. If I can do it ...
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Bob Bowers (Surprise, AZ)
2003 Alpine Coach 40' FDTS
2014 Jeep Cherokee Lattitude
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06-30-2018, 08:14 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 3,023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10
Bob,
For storage, I am a STRONG believer in a small house-type dehumidifier draining into the gray tank.
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Some drill a hole in floor to drain dehumidifier to ground. Then no worry about filling gray tank.
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Shell Bleiweiss
2014 1/2 Thor Challenger 37KT
Sedona, AZ
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06-30-2018, 08:55 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbleiweiss
Some drill a hole in floor to drain dehumidifier to ground. Then no worry about filling gray tank.
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Yes, another option.
But, once our coach (or boat) is closed up and the initial humidity removed, you are not adding that many pints of water.
Said another way, if the gray tank on the Alpine was filled due to dehumidifier, you would have a lot of other issues!
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
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07-03-2018, 12:58 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Harlingen, TX
Posts: 938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10
Bob,
We may be talking about different circumstances.
I was talking about when in the coach and using the roof A/C's. I would not open a window or turn on a vent fan except when first getting to the coach to rid it of "hotter than ambient" temperatures. Once the A/C's drop temperatures below ambient, shut everything up.
For storage, I am a STRONG believer in a small house-type dehumidifier draining into the gray tank. Do that on all my RV's and also on the sail boat. Set humidity at 50% and never have any mold or mildew. Again we are talking about what to do in humid conditions-- our dew point right now is 78 degrees!
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Brett,
I just bought a small dehumidifier for $40 on Amazon. What make and model do you recommend? I figured I'd give the cheaper option a try first. I plan to stay plugged in with AC's off, dehumidifier running and the fridge running. I am planning to modify to tank with a valve down low to allow it to drain into the gray tank. For placement I was planning the kitchen sink or bathroom sink for placement. Thoughts?
__________________
Tommy, Tiffany and Trace (along with the 4-legged children: Lexus and Chance)
2005 Alpine Coach 40FDTS
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07-03-2018, 01:26 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,882
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Small house-type dehumidifier-- 30 pint capacity.
Fridigaire 30 pint is what I use-- sits on board with blocks locating the feet so it can't "jump". Set it on the kitchen counter draining into the sink.
Here are some reviews:
https://thesoothingair.com/best-30-p...difier-review/
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
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07-05-2018, 06:33 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Harlingen, TX
Posts: 938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10
Small house-type dehumidifier-- 30 pint capacity.
Fridigaire 30 pint is what I use-- sits on board with blocks locating the feet so it can't "jump". Set it on the kitchen counter draining into the sink.
Here are some reviews:
https://thesoothingair.com/best-30-p...difier-review/
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Brett,
Do you leave any fans running or windows open to allow for air changes?
Thanks in advance.
__________________
Tommy, Tiffany and Trace (along with the 4-legged children: Lexus and Chance)
2005 Alpine Coach 40FDTS
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07-05-2018, 07:01 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamboneTHW
Brett,
Do you leave any fans running or windows open to allow for air changes?
Thanks in advance.
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In motorhome, one small fan on low blowing toward bedroom.
On sailboat two small fans on low-- one in aft cabin, one for forward cabin/head.
No open windows.
This has worked very well for many decades in a very humid environment (Gulf coast).
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
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