Roof delaminating

[Ernieo]

Anyone know how to fix this?

[Old Scout]

…..no leaks, no problem.....

[Ernieo]

Maybe true, but why does this happen? Was thinking that I could slit the skin and send in lots of glue, press it and roll it down. Then seal the slit. Thoughts?

[Old Scout]

….my thought-- every new hole in the roof is a future opportunity for a leak.....looks like you already have some "additional" holes in your roof...if you feel the need to "fix" this---one or more small holes, then inject adhesive....as for causes, could be past water intrusion [condition of roof substructure now compromised????] or failed installation at factory....

[Ljwt330]

That looks to be very unusual for a fiberglass roof and I would guess that it is a result of poor factory installation. Is your coach the one that was sold incomplete when WRV closed? If so, this may be a result of the exposure it received while sitting outside, incomplete, before it was purchased and finished.


Honestly, the delam looks more like that which you see on rubber roofed coaches. Being fiberglass, however, there is a chance that it could crack if stepped on. If you are ambitious, injecting adhesive and putting weights on the bubbles until it dries, would be the typical solution. It appears that there are other areas further back on the roof as well that would need to be addressed, but that may just be an illusion from the angle of the photo.

[Ernieo]

So fiberglass roofs have a membrane over the fiberglass?

[Brianna]

Ernio,
Is that hard and crispy to the touch, or is it flexible/squishy?

Sure doesn't look like fiberglass.

Maybe a previous owner slathered a thick coat of something over the fiberglass and that has now given way.

[Ljwt330]

Originally Posted by Ernieo

So fiberglass roofs have a membrane over the fiberglass?

No, not from the factory. That does not mean that a PO may not have covered the fiberglass with a rubberized coating, however.

Originally Posted by Brianna

Ernio,
Is that hard and crispy to the touch, or is it flexible/squishy?

Sure doesn't look like fiberglass.

Maybe a previous owner slathered a thick coat of something over the fiberglass and that has now given way.

Brianna asked a good question that I hope you can answer Also, my question regarding if this was the coach that was unfinished by the factory.

[RVPioneer]

Ernie has a 2006. It is possible it wasn’t finished at the factory, but unlikely.

[Ljwt330]

Originally Posted by RVPioneer

Ernie has a 2006. It is possible it wasn’t finished at the factory, but unlikely.

Thanks. I had been following several threads, one of which included a coach that was finished after the factory closed. Guess I forgot to look at his sig line.

[Mule Skinner]

Mine is doing the same thing. Started after prep sanding for paint.
Feels like the fiberglass is a thin sheet with plywood underneath. I can push down on any of the blisters and feel a solid base underneath.
I’m not worried about that. I would NOT cut the blisters open! The sheet has expanded and it will not come together when pressed down, it will overlap.

[Alpine06]

I second the statements above not to try to repair it. Mine has a small wrinkle in one corner that I am just monitoring at this time. Don’t step on it. Also you will notice that the size of the bubble might change in weather conditions mine completely disappears at times.
However your time might be well spend to remove all the caulking/sealant on the additional holes that you have up there and replace it.
I did that on ALL caulking on any roof penetration when I got my Alpine last year and I am happy that I did that. It gives you piece of mind that it is done right and you will be surprised how many areas still look good with no cracks in the lap sealant but with poor adhesion underneath.
Also to permanently repair all the screw holes (I.e. old dish) you can apply a fiberglass patch over that and it will never leak.

[wolfe10]

As close as that is to the the front cap joint, this may be an option-- depending on how that joint is made (have never taken it apart, so this IS just speculation):


If you can removed the molding and expose the leading edge of the FG roof, you may be able to massage it forward and resecure the cap/roof molding.


Again, having never gone into this area, don't know if that FG is glued down or not. If so, it may be that you can get some into the raised area and then put weights on it until it cures. But, if the rest of the FG is not glued down, I would NOT glue that area-- would assume it was meant to float.


Hopefully, someone who has experience with the Alpine roof structure will weight in.

[Alpine36]

Our 2000 has a couple spots doing the same thing, only not quite as severe. No leaks, no problems. Just don't step on them. I certainly would not try to inject anything under those bubbles.