Community Forums

carol.llamas · 10-24-2017, 01:22 PM

Has anyone had to replace their toilet? If so did you stick with the SeaLand or did you switch to a different brand? The toilet in our 1999 Alpine has a SeaLand Model 510 and is in need of replacing. We're not sure if this is the original toilet or not as we are the 3rd owner. I was able to find one on Amazon but the reviews aren't real good. People are saying that it isn't the same as the original. The bolt pattern is different, doesn't have a sprayer, the new one leaks worse than the old one, etc, etc. Can anyone recommend a better option out there and where it's available? Thanks.

Jim A · 10-24-2017, 05:11 PM

I had problems with my Sealand toilet leaking between the bowl and the pedestal. I don't recall the model number, but it came with the '04 coach from the factory. I replaced it 10+ years ago with a Thetford Aqua Magic Style Plus toilet. I have been much happier with it.

It wasn't an easy swap! The bolt pattern was off 45° from the pattern for the Sealand, which caused a lot of problems. I had to replace all the piping all the way to the holding tank. But it was worth the effort in my opinion. If this one broke tomorrow, I would get another Thetford without hesitation.

I think I got it at Camping World, but they are available from many RV parts dealers. Parts are easy to find if/when you need them.

Barbaraok · 10-25-2017, 06:40 PM

Since part are available for the 510, why not just replace the part(s) that aren't working?

gmcgene · 10-26-2017, 07:45 PM

I have replaced 3 toilets in different motorhomes. Most recently in my 1998 Alpine 36 FDSS.
Each time I installed a Dometic 310- China Bowl 17" seat height.
If the floor flange isn't clocked correctly to align with the bolt holes on the toilet base you can easily replace the flange UNLESS it is glued into the down pipe. In that case you can replace the flange and all the pipes/fittings down to the black tank.
OR you can buy a new flange at Home Depot etc. that will fit down into the 2 1/2" throat of the existing flange. The new "Repair" flange will have a red rubber seal on the bottom and will NOT be glued into the old flange. But it will have to be screwed to the floor which will require that you remove the old screws and the flat/horizontal section of the old flange. Once you get the screws out the plastic part can easily be removed with an angle grinder and cut off disk or with an oscillating tool.

Not a precise description, but if you remove the toilet and accumulate the replacement parts you'll understand what you need to do.
If you're over 35 you'll appreciate the taller seat height.

Forkyfork · 10-26-2017, 08:03 PM

I had a 510 I replaced it with a dometic 320. I found several reports of the base and bowl of the 310 separating. The 320 I found is bolted. Its possible on newer 310s they started bolting them. You can tell by tipping it upside down. Had I known I would have gone with a 310 but my husband says the extra real estate on a long bowl when sitting while underway is nice....If you know what I mean.

So the reason I didn't rebuild the 510 was the design of the pedestal and bowl connection and possibility for it to leak unknown like it had been. there were complaints that replacing the seals and parts were not fixing the issue. Plus all the parts I needed including the flapper ball and pieces parts were adding up quickly.

The design of the waste chute down into the toilet flange is much better on the dometic 320 because it extends past the top of the flange 1/2=1" into the opening to help prevent the other issue I had with the 510 which was leaking at the flange after it had been replaced. Also the base on the 320 is longer from front to back and more stable.

I had to use the adapter. The original flange was a hot mess and not usable. It was glued in and I couldn't get it free. On the 320 if you raise the flange you have to raise the base or the toilet won't sit right.

why not a thetford? I wasn't impressed with the flushing system and saw toilets that had a hard time getting water all the way around the bowl by shooting it from the one side. Plus the dometic uses way less water to cover the entire bowl.

Ill post pics from my phone using the app later.

carol.llamas · 10-28-2017, 12:59 PM

We have already replaced quite a few parts and it seems to work fine for a while and then starts leaking again.

Forkyfork · 10-28-2017, 02:13 PM

Yes that is exactly why I replaced instead of throwing parts at it. I liked the toilet but the leaking was unacceptable.

AKOne · 10-28-2017, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim A

Had problems with my Sealand toilet leaking between the bowl and the pedestal.

After rebuilding my SeaLand, it leaked between the bowl and the pedestal. Replaced the two piece collar that holds the bow to the pedestal. No problems all summer. Recommend replacing the collar along with the seals.