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Old 04-11-2020, 09:44 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Busskipper View Post
Mono, would be better - thank you.

Yes, correct on the wild guess - if more are needed then add a few more panels - that works too correct?

Forgot to mention that if more power is needed then the Generator could also be fired up -


Thanks for the simple concise answer,
Yer welcome.

Do consider getting a couple of these. $32 for two. It will make battery management while boondocking and deploying solar soooo much easier.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BTW, I get fully charged virtually every day(cloudy days excepted) with 150 watts of portable panels but I am quite frugal with power. About 20-25 amp hours per day unless I have to run the furnace. Small furnace draws only 3.4 amps.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:08 AM   #30
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Busskipper,
If you were not using your rv, 200W is plenty to keep the batteries fully charged at all times (way more than enough). As mentioned above, you need to calculate how much power you are using to know what you are subtracting from that full charge.
And, also mentioned above, adding a simple battery monitor (even before you install solar) will let you visualize your power consumption as the day/night progresses.
The whole "how much solar do I need" conversation might be compared to "how big does my fresh water tank need to be". The answer depends on how frugal you are with water during the day. If you have a family of 6 that all take long showers and you use running water to rinse dishes and you take a hose up to wash the rv roof, you will run out of water very quickly. Meanwhile, another rv manages to stay off grid for over a week.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:23 AM   #31
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Great comments. Thank you everyone.
Regarding voltage.
I know that 5 x 100W panels in series is safe and within spec, however I wish I could do 3 x 100W plus another 3 x 100W, each about 48V.
That would go beyond the capabilities of my 40A CC. That's my fault. Should have gone with a 60A.
So, if I ever get to phase 2, I will rewire the panels and split it to go with 2 controllers.
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:54 AM   #32
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Busskipper,
If you were not using your rv, 200W is plenty to keep the batteries fully charged at all times (way more than enough). As mentioned above, you need to calculate how much power you are using to know what you are subtracting from that full charge.
And, also mentioned above, adding a simple battery monitor (even before you install solar) will let you visualize your power consumption as the day/night progresses.
The whole "how much solar do I need" conversation might be compared to "how big does my fresh water tank need to be". The answer depends on how frugal you are with water during the day. If you have a family of 6 that all take long showers and you use running water to rinse dishes and you take a hose up to wash the rv roof, you will run out of water very quickly. Meanwhile, another rv manages to stay off grid for over a week.
Got it,

This is for my son, on a budget, and who knows how it will be used or how much they will need - Thus the reason for a Generator - but also with a controller large enough to allow more if needed to handle basics of his 233S Roo with DW and 4 girls. They have moved on from being Tent Campers, in all seasons and if COVID-19 allows they will hit the road and hopefully see a little more of America - Trying to Make Lemonade out of all the Lemons Left on the Table.

Girls have already had all the Summer activities Canceled and this is a Once in a Lifetime chance for them - Son can still work from where ever, just needs to be able to use the phone and the internet.

They have done much of Colorado already - will look to Utah and California Coast to Oregon - Washington then likely head across the top of the US to meet for a family reunion at the Beach in Delaware before driving back to start School? If they do go Back to School?

Just trying to get him some info as the last time I did Solar was 15 years ago with 4 panels of 120 = 480 watts and and Outback 60 Controller, giving me plenty of room to grow. - but for me I just usually run the Generator -

So Thank you all, as I really just needed to find a Good Deal that was not too expensive to recommend to him.

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Old 04-12-2020, 10:22 AM   #33
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Busskipper,
If you were not using your rv, 200W is plenty to keep the batteries fully charged at all times (way more than enough). As mentioned above, you need to calculate how much power you are using to know what you are subtracting from that full charge.
And, also mentioned above, adding a simple battery monitor (even before you install solar) will let you visualize your power consumption as the day/night progresses.
The whole "how much solar do I need" conversation might be compared to "how big does my fresh water tank need to be". The answer depends on how frugal you are with water during the day. If you have a family of 6 that all take long showers and you use running water to rinse dishes and you take a hose up to wash the rv roof, you will run out of water very quickly. Meanwhile, another rv manages to stay off grid for over a week.
This is good advice.

Using a battery monitor to get real data on how much energy you're using. This is very valuable. You're no longer trying to estimate, and you will have quite an eye opening experience as you learn how much power various things use.

Our wet cell batteries were either already bad when we bought it, or were ruined due to my ignorance and incorrect settings on the charger when I bought it. We replaced the batteries while at DRR in January. I also installed a Victon Battery Monitor. A BMV-712 that you can monitor from your phone. It was very educational to turn things on and off and watch the load change. Now I have a spreadsheet with actual power draw for the various devices on board. It's also been able to tell us exactly how much we use total in a day.

Anyone "thinking about installing solar", should start with installing a way to monitor their current usage. The knowledge is invaluable.

We have FHU where we're at currently, so our need for solar won't be until next year. I will work my way 'backwards' from the battery bank, and install the solar panels last.

I want to relocate my batteries into the basement area near the existing inverter. I've not finished how I plan to run the wiring for the whole project, but a year should be a enough time to get it all installed.
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Old 04-12-2020, 11:18 AM   #34
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back to the 5 -panels --100 watt @ 22v.. if you series.. it is 100 watts and volts can be 100+... 5 panels in parallel id 500 watts at 22v....

or is my brain fading again...
You are correct, in series you add voltage, in parallel you add wattage.
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Old 04-15-2020, 06:42 AM   #35
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This is good advice.

Using a battery monitor to get real data on how much energy you're using. This is very valuable. You're no longer trying to estimate, and you will have quite an eye opening experience as you learn how much power various things use.

Our wet cell batteries were either already bad when we bought it, or were ruined due to my ignorance and incorrect settings on the charger when I bought it. We replaced the batteries while at DRR in January. I also installed a Victon Battery Monitor. A BMV-712 that you can monitor from your phone. It was very educational to turn things on and off and watch the load change. Now I have a spreadsheet with actual power draw for the various devices on board. It's also been able to tell us exactly how much we use total in a day.

Anyone "thinking about installing solar", should start with installing a way to monitor their current usage. The knowledge is invaluable.

We have FHU where we're at currently, so our need for solar won't be until next year. I will work my way 'backwards' from the battery bank, and install the solar panels last.

I want to relocate my batteries into the basement area near the existing inverter. I've not finished how I plan to run the wiring for the whole project, but a year should be a enough time to get it all installed.
Cool!!

Good idea to relocate the batteries in the heated compartment near inverter........wish I had thought of that
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Old 04-15-2020, 07:13 AM   #36
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Cool!!

Good idea to relocate the batteries in the heated compartment near inverter........wish I had thought of that
Just remember it needs to be Vented - as batteries will release Gases!
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Old 04-15-2020, 08:12 AM   #37
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Yes, unless AGM, the battery compartment needs to be vented AND not in the same compartment with any electrical devices. Sulfuric acid fumes and hydrogen do not play nice with electrical devices. One corrodes, one can go BOOM.
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Old 04-15-2020, 09:21 AM   #38
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Cool!!

Good idea to relocate the batteries in the heated compartment near inverter........wish I had thought of that
Quote:
Originally Posted by Busskipper View Post
Just remember it needs to be Vented - as batteries will release Gases!


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Yes, unless AGM, the battery compartment needs to be vented AND not in the same compartment with any electrical devices. Sulfuric acid fumes and hydrogen do not play nice with electrical devices. One corrodes, one can go BOOM.
>You guys are right but.............Hayduke has LifePO4 batteries
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Old 04-15-2020, 09:48 AM   #39
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You are correct, in series you add voltage, in parallel you add wattage.
Not meant to be confrontational.

I think that instead of wattage you mean amperage.

10 amps at 12 v would be 120 watts.

1 amp at 120 volts would be 120 watts.

Watts=volts times amps.

Stay safe.

Skol.
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Old 04-15-2020, 10:04 AM   #40
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Too Many?

I have never heard anyone say they put up too many solar panels.

The limitations are space and money.

I would suggest with a larger array you take advantage and find a way to up the battery set capacity. That way your less likely to waste the energy from the panels when the batteries are fully charged.
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Old 04-15-2020, 11:29 AM   #41
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Not meant to be confrontational.

I think that instead of wattage you mean amperage.

10 amps at 12 v would be 120 watts.

1 amp at 120 volts would be 120 watts.

Watts=volts times amps.

Stay safe.

Skol.
Yes I did, thanks for the find.
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Old 04-16-2020, 07:49 AM   #42
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Update:
So apparently, according to EPEver, the charge controller manufacturer there is no problem shoving a potential 600 into the controller rated for maximum 530W input. There is no damage to the controller. The excess will simply be wasted. So, with that 100% assurance in mind, combined with the fact that I will rarely if ever produce 600W, I have decided to do (6) 100W panels wired in series/parallel. Two circuits with 300 each.
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