Solenoid Identification ???

[RVPioneer]

Originally Posted by Old Scout

...I just changed the power feed to the secondary rely/solenoid from unswitched to a switched power source at the rear compartment so the battery kill switch would disconnect it....might be a bit more difficult with a Vansco coach to find a switched source....

My thinking is that a switch on either side of the secondary solenoid would create an open circuit when in the off position thereby eliminating the current going to the primary solenoid. Same as scrambling to find a wrench and diving under the coach to discconnect a wire, only less dramatic. Could be located in the battery compartment for easier access.

[EngineerMike]

One side of the load contacts on the remote start solenoid is hot all day. It comes off the starter hot cable. Other side starts the bendix on starter.
On all coaches I've spelunked, there switched side of the chassis battery disconnect switch would make a good alternate source of 12V, and an inline 30A fuse would be a good addition. I put a 50A switch in line on that hot leg.
Per Bowers, Cole Hersey 24059 solenoid ($20 on Amazon) is a good quality replacement. Wouldn't hurt on coaches w/75k on the clock or more to replace the original for PM purposes & carry the original for a spare.


Now if you turn the key switch and the motor doesn't crank, you can jump 12V from the perma-hot load stud to the small white wire stud (make sure you are in Neutral, have park brake ON, you are not in the path of tire travel, etc.)

[RVPioneer]

Originally Posted by EngineerMike

One side of the load contacts on the remote start solenoid is hot all day. It comes off the starter hot cable. Other side starts the bendix on starter.
On all coaches I've spelunked, there switched side of the chassis battery disconnect switch would make a good alternate source of 12V, and an inline 30A fuse would be a good addition. I put a 50A switch in line on that hot leg.
Per Bowers, Cole Hersey 24059 solenoid ($20 on Amazon) is a good quality replacement. Wouldn't hurt on coaches w/75k on the clock or more to replace the original for PM purposes & carry the original for a spare.


Now if you turn the key switch and the motor doesn't crank, you can jump 12V from the perma-hot load stud to the small white wire stud (make sure you are in Neutral, have park brake ON, you are not in the path of tire travel, etc.)

Mike,

Just so I understand, did you put the 50A switch on your alternate source of 12V that is coming off the switched side of the chassis disconnect? I’m looking for a way to add a switch to cut power to the secondary solenoid in the event it becomes stuck in the closed position.

Thanks,
Bob