storage door repair/replace/disassemble

[andy29847]

I messed up a couple of underneath storage doors with some distracted driving. I ordered repair/replace material from Metal Masters in Oregon. My ship came in today. The door that covers the black and gray tank area on the passenger side is made just like the door I am replacing. No problem. The smaller door, the one just in front of the rear wheel on the passenger side, will need a little work. Metal Masters made me the inner and outer skins. I need to disassemble the old door, move the hardware over to the new pieces, and put the door together. I ordered the door this way because it was substantially cheaper.

Now comes the hard part. Do any of you have experience pulling one of the doors apart? I visualize that I need to drill out the rivets, break the bond of the silicone sealer used on the inner panel, and slide the door apart. I also wonder if I will be able to reuse the Styrofoam sheet inside the door or if I should plan on buying new material. I'm guessing that the hardware remove and replace procedure will be apparent after I get the door apart. Anything you can share about this job is appreciated.



TIA

[Alpine36]

Can't help you with that one Andy, but I've been tempted to disassemble the inner panels on our two big RH bay basement doors. They sound like they're full of small rocks when opening and closing them. I've looked and looked but can't see how on earth they could get inside.
Good luck on your bodywork and keep us posted with progress pictures.

[MKelley]

It's too bad you have already purchased doors. I have all the short doors for the passenger side of a 40' Alpine

[andy29847]

I asked here before buying. Maybe we are lucky we didn't connect. The 40' elevation does not show any matching numbers.

[IAlreadyGot1]

Originally Posted by MKelley

It's too bad you have already purchased doors. I have all the short doors for the passenger side of a 40' Alpine

Aren’t the short doors on the drivers side?

[MKelley]

WRV was consistent about being inconsistent so the best was is to measure what you have. and yes driver side for the short doors.

[andy29847]

I'm working on it!

That is, I received the inner and outer skins from Magic Metals and I am stripping the needed parts off the old door to make a new door. I am finding the rivets to be either 1/8" (skin attachment) or 3/16 (structural or lock). The rivets in the upper corners that hold the support strut are steel. The rest are aluminum. I intend to use aluminum rivets for all points.

Step 1 - remove the inside cover over the lock mechanisms.



Step 2 - remove the arms from the lock mechanism that go out to the latch mechanism.

Step 3 - drill out the rivets for the latch mechanism and remove the latch and base plate.



Step 4 - drill out the rivets that hold on the inner skin and remove the inner skin.

Step 5 - remove the 7/16" nut in the center of the lock mechanism and remove the clamp that holds on the lock, the lock, and the full width support piece. I had to remove the brass arms on the back of the lock to get the lock through the hole. Note that there are springs on each piece. Take a photo so you can position them correctly when you put reassemble the door.





Step 6 - drill out the rivets and remove the top bar (hinge point), the strut attachments, and the bottom bar (note my bottom bar is bent :( ).





Step 7 - the piece of Styrofoam supports the thin inner skin when the door is assembled. It is 1" thick and is glued to the outer skin. You can salvage the Styrofoam by gently separating it from the outer skin with a putty knife. I had a disposable ice cooler that I used for new foam.

Step 8 - clean all parts.

Step 9 - attach top bar to outer skin. Slide in the strut attachments (they will not be riveted until you do the outer skin).

Step 10 - Install support piece and lock. The support piece only goes in one way - the tabs fit into slots cut into the outer rails.



Step 11 - Install the bottom bar (I don't have mine yet - ordered yesterday). I ordered the bar from Magic Metals and it costs $67 delivered. I'm wishing now that I tried to straighten the old bar.

Step 12 - install the Styrofoam. I'm using RTV because it is what I have on hand.

Step 13 - Lay the inner skin over the assembly. Put rivets in all the holes to insure they will fit. Attach the inner skin using your rivet gun except for the latch mechanisms.

Step 14 - attach the latches and latch arms.

Step 15 - attach the lock/latch cover.

Go watch TV. You are the MAN.

[andy29847]

Before



After

[Bruce Anthon]

Very nice work and write up. You could go into business when you really retire and do this! Thank you for sharing your grief with us.

[andy29847]

Merry Christmas to me! Finished. Remind me not to run over rocks again.

[Alpine36]

Nicely done, the paint match looks great!

[andy29847]

Thanks for the compliment. I used a local auto body shop. Since the doors come off, it was easy to do that way and far cheaper than the estimate I got from the RV repair shop. I am very happy with their work.

[Bruce Anthon]

Very nice work! I appreciate the detail you share with us on your projects… or is it the occasional models you include in some of the photos? Merry Christmas and safe travels.

[andy29847]

Originally Posted by Bruce Anthon

Very nice work! I appreciate the detail you share with us on your projects… or is it the occasional models you include in some of the photos? Merry Christmas and safe travels.

and I can sing too!

Merry Christmas to all!