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Old 08-31-2020, 07:04 PM   #57
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Ok, so here is the latest update. After speaking with Steve of Steve and Linda's Apex for quite some time, we determined that the batteries were totally discharged. Thanks again Steve for taking my call.

Steve provided me the number for Lifeline batteries and they confirmed that the batteries were completely drained. They advised me to hook the MH up to 50 or at least 25amp service and wait while they recharge. They said that my 2006 Xantrex inverter did not have a low voltage charge setting and would shut off in the voltage went to low. As a result the inverter would not charge and thus the power drain.

At the present time the batteries are reading 13.7 and the system shows "Absorption" in the Battery screen.

What has Steve puzzled and me just coco, is why in the battery screen it shows 13.7 but 104a, or when it's charging showing 113a and bulk.

Also, I am not sure why the silverleaf screen shows no info under AC power.

However, the bigger question is why the unit drained when there was shore power being provided to the MH. The inverter should have kept charging the batteries before it got that low, as the batteries were full when the unit was stored. All I had on was the inverter and fridge.

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Old 08-31-2020, 11:59 PM   #58
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Storing my coach

Ernie,

You are getting too far down the chain looking for this problem, An inverter/charger is the units name. It does 2 functions, it inverts DC to AC power AND it charges your batteries, however if the charger function is not Enabled, it will NOT charge your batteries. First ENABLE your charger, the pictures you attached show that Silverleaf says it is DISABLED. Second, DISABLE the AGS, you do not want your genny running in an enclosed space. Third, if your batteries were showing they were at 10.7 volts they are most likely toast, get them load tested, or more specifically get the specific gravity of the water tested, that will tell you their condition.

As far as telling if you are getting shore power, that is simple, WRV did not put the light over the table (and several other things) on the inverter circuit. So the light turns on only when you are getting shore or genny power.

When I store my coach I turn BOTH of the battery disconnect switches off. This does NOT disconnect the charger AND it does not remove all the loads from the battery bank, there are multiple “phantom” loads that stay connected! But it does remove about 90% of the load. I also turn off the refer circuit breaker (black circuit breaker panel) and prop the doors open, that way the refer dries out and will not become a petrie dish.

Since you have lead acid batteries the fluid levels need to be checked monthly (particularly while in storage). You also need to exercise your genny monthly by running it under load. I normally start it up and turn on the air conditioning. You ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) is set up so when you the start the genny, even if you are on shore power, the coach switches to the genny. But do not do this with the air conditioning running, turn it off while you change power sources.

Back to your GFCI issue. Is the outlet in the bathroom tripping, or is the outlet you are plugging the coach into tripping. Second, are ALL of the adapters (50 to 30 and 30 to 20, factory made). Do they trip the GFCI if you plug them in elsewhere? My suspicion is that you are tripping an external GFCI outlet and have high resistance in one of you ground connections and that is causing the issue. If that is the case the problem could be an adapter or in the coach. Start by cleaning all of your adapter connections (take spray contact cleaner, clean all of the connections, then plug/unplug each connection several times). If you have seen the ends of a plug get dull that is a type of corrosion, it happens to both sides of a connection, clean them periodically. Sorry this is so long, but you have multiple issues.
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Old 09-01-2020, 12:33 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDaveMA View Post
Ernie,

You are getting too far down the chain looking for this problem, An inverter/charger is the units name. It does 2 functions, it inverts DC to AC power AND it charges your batteries, however if the charger function is not Enabled, it will NOT charge your batteries. First ENABLE your charger, the pictures you attached show that Silverleaf says it is DISABLED. Second, DISABLE the AGS, you do not want your genny running in an enclosed space. Third, if your batteries were showing they were at 10.7 volts they are most likely toast, get them load tested, or more specifically get the specific gravity of the water tested, that will tell you their condition.

As far as telling if you are getting shore power, that is simple, WRV did not put the light over the table (and several other things) on the inverter circuit. So the light turns on only when you are getting shore or genny power.

When I store my coach I turn BOTH of the battery disconnect switches off. This does NOT disconnect the charger AND it does not remove all the loads from the battery bank, there are multiple “phantom” loads that stay connected! But it does remove about 90% of the load. I also turn off the refer circuit breaker (black circuit breaker panel) and prop the doors open, that way the refer dries out and will not become a petrie dish.

Since you have lead acid batteries the fluid levels need to be checked monthly (particularly while in storage). You also need to exercise your genny monthly by running it under load. I normally start it up and turn on the air conditioning. You ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) is set up so when you the start the genny, even if you are on shore power, the coach switches to the genny. But do not do this with the air conditioning running, turn it off while you change power sources.

Back to your GFCI issue. Is the outlet in the bathroom tripping, or is the outlet you are plugging the coach into tripping. Second, are ALL of the adapters (50 to 30 and 30 to 20, factory made). Do they trip the GFCI if you plug them in elsewhere? My suspicion is that you are tripping an external GFCI outlet and have high resistance in one of you ground connections and that is causing the issue. If that is the case the problem could be an adapter or in the coach. Start by cleaning all of your adapter connections (take spray contact cleaner, clean all of the connections, then plug/unplug each connection several times). If you have seen the ends of a plug get dull that is a type of corrosion, it happens to both sides of a connection, clean them periodically. Sorry this is so long, but you have multiple issues.
Ok, the bus is back in storage and no trips of the breaker. I did notice that on the Silverleaf the;

-Battery screen said, 13.5v, charging between 8 and 11a(trickling??) and in Float status.
-Inverter screen said, Pass-Thur, 3a (current load??), 118v and 60hz
But what I don't seem to understand is why on the Arrive screen, it show No Power Source and on AC Power screen I get no information, just 0's wi9th AC power is Qualified.

So having said all that, I left all the breakers on, but have the ac turned off, the fridge running, plus the overhead fans to pull out some of the hot air. All that I am running a load of 3a. I assume that if I am charging at 8a (trickle I guess), that I should have no problems.

Is my assumption correct?
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Old 09-02-2020, 04:26 AM   #60
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Stupid question:
Why would one turn on the inverter, while plugged into shore Power?
Isn't it a one or the other, but not both?
The inverter pulls from the batteries to make 120vac.
I'm not surprised that a frig and a fan running off an inverter would drain the batteries faster than the shore power could replenish them.
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Old 09-02-2020, 05:48 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna View Post
Stupid question:
Why would one turn on the inverter, while plugged into shore Power?
Isn't it a one or the other, but not both?
The inverter pulls from the batteries to make 120vac.
I'm not surprised that a frig and a fan running off an inverter would drain the batteries faster than the shore power could replenish them.
When on shore power the inverter goes to sleep, regardless of the on/off switch position. The shore power just passes thru it.
Having it ON only lets it wake up, If shore power is lost.
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Old 09-02-2020, 08:43 AM   #62
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Ernie,

I don’t speak Silverleaf. It does sound as though you have power to the coach and the systems are operating as designed. Batteries charged and in Float, 3a pass-thru, 118v 60hz.

That’s good news. It is also, in my estimation, a fairly solid indicator that the air conditioner coming on caused the outlet to trip.
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Old 09-03-2020, 01:34 AM   #63
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If you were plugged into a GFCI outlet, not breaker, you only had 20 amps available, so the A/C coming on should have tripped the pedestal breaker, not the GFCI reset.
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Old 09-03-2020, 09:42 AM   #64
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If you were plugged into a GFCI outlet, not breaker, you only had 20 amps available, so the A/C coming on should have tripped the pedestal breaker, not the GFCI reset.
Unless the A/C is the cause of the ground fault.

At the moment the coach is powered by the same 20A GFI outlet as before. The only changes have been setting the inverter to 20A and not using the A/C. The GFI outlet has not tripped.

Ernie has previously described a 30 second delay from the time he plugged in, to the time that the outlet tripped. That’s about the same amount of time it might take for a surge guard and thermostat to go through their motions before sending a signal to start the A/C.

Nothing else that may have previously tripped the GFI has done so since the A/C was disabled. We may be down to the final suspect.
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Old 09-03-2020, 04:03 PM   #65
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Had the same issue with my bus when parked at the house. I switched out the GFI and all was good.
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:32 PM   #66
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Have you tried removing the sure protector from the 20 amp line connection. For some reason this solved my similar problem.
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Old 09-03-2020, 06:00 PM   #67
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I had a similar issue at an RV storage yard. The problem wasn’t me. I had essentially a trickle charge and nothing else...but...my 20amp service wasn’t really 20 amp service. It was on a 20amp line, yes, but so were 3 other RVs. They had their own lockable outlet, just like mine, but one or more of them were running more than a trickle charge...like a refer or maybe even two. The storage yard had advertised it as 20 amp, but had not mentioned it was a circuit shared between four units. I moved the RV back to my other home for a while and when that home finally sold, I brought it back to the same yard. The new power agreement indicated that while it was a 20amp circuit, the user was only allowed to use 5amps worth. It could be that while you are trying to trickle charge, others are being power hogs.
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Old 09-03-2020, 06:30 PM   #68
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A brief refresher of the situation.

The OP was tripping a 20A GFI outlet with built in protection, not a GFI breaker, or regular breaker in a panel.

The coach has now been powered by the same outlet for several days since the following changes were made:
Inverter set to 20A.
Air conditioning has not been used.

We believe the surge protector, extension cords and all other adapters that were in use when the outlet tripped are still in use. We have not been made aware of any other devices that are sharing the circuit or plugged in downstream of the GFI outlet.

The current situation indicates that a ground fault is not present, since the outlet hasn’t tripped, and that and over current condition is not present, since the breaker in the panel has not tripped.
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Old 09-03-2020, 07:35 PM   #69
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RV's with "built-in" GFCI do not play well if they are being fed by service that has GFCI circuits. I found this was most common at fairgrounds where the city/county codes dictated they have GFCI boxes. Never had an issue with 50A, only 30A and less service.
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Old 09-03-2020, 08:01 PM   #70
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The issue was severely discharged batteries. When the inverter dropped out due to low voltage, the GFI tripped from the voltage elimination from the inverter. I have spoken with Ernie at length about this and other issues.
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