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Old 03-05-2020, 04:58 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul65k View Post
This product is AWESOME. Works very well and they have many different designs for many different manufacturers. Installation requires no drilling and is about a 5-minute process

https://www.recubed.solutions/copy-of-pvs21ksebfss
That thing is cool. I bookmarked it. Thanks
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Old 03-05-2020, 06:56 PM   #44
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JC refrigeration

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Originally Posted by Alpine36 View Post
Great point. Personally were still running the old Demotic absorption fridge with no issues whatsoever. (spell check changed it to Demotic...I like it)
Fridge Defend is on our short list of must haves.
If we decided to go full time I'd upgrade to a residential no questions asked. For now the old Demotic and Yeti cooler are more than adequate, plus I like having the propane option.
Propanes cheap, L ion batteries and large solar systems not so much. To each their own, but my philosophy is if it ain't broke don't fix it. (unless it fits your plan)
So anyone here install a Fridge Defend system, and any words of wisdom doing so?
I was all set to replace my Dometic with a 10 cu/ft refrigerator from Home Depot until I found JC refrigeration. After some research, I went with the AC conversion setup. No change to the decor which I liked and I have the benefit of a compressor as in the house. In 100* outside temps, my fridge stays at 35-37* and the freezer at 0 or -5. Love the setup and kept my interior intact. Itís an easy conversion for a DIY. BE CAREFUL how a Home refer expels the hot air, some vent out the front into the living area to heat up the coach. DSDP 2000 model
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:30 PM   #45
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Arkansas,
What made you go with the AC compressor instead of the DC?

I know why JC likes the AC. It's because you just plug it in, vs tying in to a 12v wire.
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Old 03-05-2020, 10:52 PM   #46
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Iím doing the JC 12volt 1292 replacement system, 1200 watts solar, w 4 AGM 200ís. Iíll be fine... I boondock a lot. 2000 Winnie Adventurer. I like the original look, and mine is in great shape.

Costco sells a DC replacement for the 8 cu ft two doors.
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Old 03-05-2020, 11:42 PM   #47
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The Refrigerator Dilemma(s)

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We just replaced our Norcold 1210 with the Samsung RF18 a couple months ago. Been on two trips and works great, nice to know the food is staying cold when we are plugged in or on the road. We plugged the new frig into the inverter outlet behind the old frig. It runs on the inverter (2000 watt inverter) and four 6 v batteries that were original equipment on this 07 Bounder dp The half again more interior usable space and hard ice cream and we are onto our next project. No regrets with this mod. A lot to be said for the old gas/electric frig that we used for years, I have camped all my life. It just made sense to us to go ahead and change over to the Samsung and residential on the inverter. It took care of many concerns in one bundle. Good luck on your decision and be safe and have fun. God bless
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Old 03-06-2020, 02:47 AM   #48
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I replaced my Norcold cooling unit with the JC 120v compressor unit in November 2019.

I replaced the original Norcold cooling unit in 2011 just out of warranty, after 14 months (floating clog stopped cooling action), then got 8 years of normal Norcold cooling until last November. It developed a coolant leak, hissing, yellow gunk, very glad I was not on propane at the time.

The JC unit was several hundred dollars less than a new Norcold cooling unit, comes with a 3 year warranty, with optional 3 years extra if desired. During installation we found that 2/3rds of the wiring was no longer needed, disconnect propane, a very easy replace and install. (I did not have the room to install a regular residential refer without reducing size, or lots and lots of modifications)

I have a 1000w msw inverter that powers it very well when travelling and boondocking. Hooking up my power meter, the unit uses 66w when running. They give you a dual fan unit for the interior of the refer box to keep the fins from icing up. Took a while experimenting with the location of the fans and thermistor for best results. Now, with cold setting at 2 normally, and 3 on really hot days, I get 36-38 in the refer box, 5-10 degrees in the freezer, with the compressor on about 1/2 the time. If you set the control for more cold, I had no problem getting below zero with more running time.

The unit still does the Norcold defrost cycle every 36 hours, but the recovery time is much, much faster. All the ice cubes I can use, and 'hard' ice cream in either freezer compartment. All in all, the cooling is very consistent, I don't worry about leveling or fire danger from it any more. And it works perfectly, driving down the road, no more pilot light blowing out with side winds.

Its only been a few months, but we are very happy with the choice.
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Old 03-06-2020, 07:27 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by paul65k View Post
I just made the change to compressor-based a few months ago and agonized for quite some time before coming to a final decision..............

Very darn nice. That just moved up on my bucket list. Thanks for posting.
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Old 03-06-2020, 09:09 AM   #50
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JC refrigeration

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Originally Posted by Brianna View Post
Arkansas,
What made you go with the AC compressor instead of the DC?

I know why JC likes the AC. It's because you just plug it in, vs tying in to a 12v wire.
Both the 12volt and AC get you cold but the AC gets you there quicker. Takes about 3-4 hours to get inside temps to 37*. There is already a 12volt wire and an 120 AC wire there if you have a standard RV fridge. My setup was a little more complicated because my coach didnít have an inverter, only a converter.
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Old 03-06-2020, 11:11 AM   #51
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JC Refrigeration

I went with the AC unit. I only have 600 watts on the roof with 4-110ah batteries. The compressor is amazingly quiet and very efficient. I did put a 4Ē muffin fan inside the fridge to move some cold air around just for kicks. It was super easy to swap old cooling unit out, but if you have questions their customer service is top notch. I donít have to be a fridge door policemen anymore.
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Old 03-06-2020, 11:38 AM   #52
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Refrigerator Dilemma

We replaced our Norcold 1210 refrigerator last year with a JC Refrigeration unit. The new AC only unit works very well. The reason for choosing a JC unit was because of the size of the "box" issue. No need to remodel the cabinet to fit a new size box. All of the old propane / electric cooling is removed with a JC unit. The unit will run fine on an inverter when traveling or for longer periods on a generator if you run your generator for powering your roof top AC units. Most of the time the unit is plugged in at the RV park.

Removal of the propane / electric refrigerator is highly recommended even if there is a "safety sensor" installed. We found that our propane / electric unit had actually burned and charred the interior of the cabinet because the coach manufacturer (Monaco) had not installed the refrigerator per the refrigerator manufactures specification. Norcold spec's require a metal heat shield around the top of the refrigerator and a metal duct to vent the combustion gases out the top roof vent. Both of these pieces were missing on the installation of our 2007 Norcold 1210. Actually, the "Safety Sensor" gives owners a false sense of security because they believe the sensor will protect against a refrigerator fire while in the mean time the burner tube is charring their cabinet.

JC Refrigeration produces some excellent videos on how to remove the old and install the new refrigeration unit. However, this is not an easy job for a beginner.
Two experienced people can do the job in about 4 hours and a number of special tools are required. I did the job myself with a little bit of help with lifting and the work took about three days. Might have taken less time if I did not have to keep running back and forth from my shop to the storage yard and then off to the hardware store for one or two small parts or a special tool. Even with all the work the "Dutch Air" unit is highly recommended.
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Old 03-06-2020, 12:37 PM   #53
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One thing to check when purchasing a residential refrigerator other than size, is to ensure that the new unit is built for zero clearance or built-in.
Btw, NPKP, how did you power the muffin fan inside the fridge? I have a battery powered fan that eats batteries.
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Old 03-07-2020, 01:25 AM   #54
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For info, JC Refrigeration provided a twin muffin fan unit for the inside of the refer box with the compressor kit. The instructions showed where you could drill a hole straight through the back to hook the 12v wires to power. (I missed that instruction)

Called for assistance, they said that they often feed the wire down and out the back of the drain tube. It was a tough feed process, and I got all the way but the last two inches. Could not get it down the last couple of inches where I could grab on. Then it hit me, a little WD-40 spray at the top, and that cable slide very easily down the tube. Once in place you just hook to any convenient 12v positive and negative connectors, and the fan is powered. It also has a switch on it.

I thought that it might interfere with the defrost drainage flow, but after several months, I think it actually facilitates better flow, have not seen any problems with the wire run through that tube.
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Old 03-07-2020, 11:00 AM   #55
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Refer wiring

Roger and Della- I just ran a small 2-conductor wire through the existing tube that has the indoor light wire in it. I canít remember where I connected it to on the back side,(JC told me over the phone, I used an AC fan). Once you get your unit delivered, you can call them or e-mail them and they get right back to you.
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Old 03-09-2020, 11:13 AM   #56
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Refrigerator Dilemma

After reading what several people have said about installing the wire to the internal fan for the JC Refrigeration Unit, I believe some have not understood what JC Refrigeration meant when they said to run the wire down the drain tube.
I did not completely understand what they meant when I installed our unit. The instructions are a very brief section at the end of their installation video.

The drain tube connects to a plastic tray inside the Norcold box and is routed out to the back of the box through a hole in the back of the refrigerator. Simply follow the tube to the hole and feed the fan wire through that hole and re-seal the hole as necessary. No need to try and feed the wire through the tube itself. Connect the fan wire to ground and the red 12 volt supply line that feeds the control circuit box. The internal fan has a small on/off switch which can be turned on and off manually. The cooling unit works so well that we seldom use the fan.
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