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Old 08-08-2020, 09:40 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayduke View Post
refill while warm. Thanks



I saw Engineer Mike's jug setup at DRR. When we get to CA, I will do something similar.

Mike has a jug set up in the engine compartment? That explains it


I couldn't help myself...
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Old 08-09-2020, 06:50 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom and Patty View Post
Mike has a jug set up in the engine compartment? That explains it
I couldn't help myself...

If you filter the mash before you distill it, your jug in the engine compartment stays clear! Of course, the deferred maintenance in the ER just KEEPS getting deferred if you check out the jug before doing the maintenance!
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Old 08-10-2020, 08:27 AM   #59
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With my new (unknown history) coach I bit the bullet and had Cummins inspect and test and r/r everything they could find.
I don't know anything about engines, so that expensive evaluation gave me the confidence to hit the road. That and a brand new set of tires.
I felt I could troubleshoot and deal with any electrical, plumbing or carpentry issue myself, but I needed to have an engine pro tell me everything was good to go in that department.
PS. In another thread I read, people said cummins coach care in Spokane was their favorite in the country.
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Old 08-10-2020, 08:52 AM   #60
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I will add my endorsement of 3M 4000 and 5200.
Dicor has its place, but it is not super adhesive. It excels only as a sealant.
I used 5200 for solar panel brackets, tv antenna and thru-roof cable glands.
I'm also planning on using it on the upper edge of the roof/sidewall trim.
Only caution is that it does need to out - gas quite a bit, so if you filled a large void you might come back to find it not as smooth and perfect as you left it. No prob, just fill in the imperfections with a 2nd coat.
As mentioned above by others, surface must be squeeky clean with alcohol or a little MEK (for faster nervous system damage).
Also, if you also use additional fasteners, wait a day for the adhesive to start to cure before you crank them down. Otherwise you squish most of the adhesive out.
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Old 08-10-2020, 09:03 AM   #61
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I would NOT use 3M 5200 on anything you think you might ever want to remove.


3M 4000/4200 is prescribed for these locations where you may want to remove them in the future.
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:32 AM   #62
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3M5200 comes off with a heated putty knife.
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Old 08-10-2020, 01:34 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna View Post
With my new (unknown history) coach I bit the bullet and had Cummins inspect and test and r/r everything they could find.
I don't know anything about engines, so that expensive evaluation gave me the confidence to hit the road. That and a brand new set of tires.
I felt I could troubleshoot and deal with any electrical, plumbing or carpentry issue myself, but I needed to have an engine pro tell me everything was good to go in that department.
PS. In another thread I read, people said cummins coach care in Spokane was their favorite in the country.
We took our coach to the Spokane Cummins Care before our maiden voyage.

They were great, but my only other experiences with shops was the dealership where we bought it and the place in Phx that replaced the radiator. We were NOT happy with the place in Phx. I don't feel like slamming them right now, but if someone wants to know, just ask me. The short versoin is they tried to overcharge me, and the radiator is already leaking, and they appear to have created a new leak on other component of that 'cooling stack'.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna View Post
I will add my endorsement of 3M 4000 and 5200.
Dicor has its place, but it is not super adhesive. It excels only as a sealant.
I used 5200 for solar panel brackets, tv antenna and thru-roof cable glands.
I'm also planning on using it on the upper edge of the roof/sidewall trim.
Only caution is that it does need to out - gas quite a bit, so if you filled a large void you might come back to find it not as smooth and perfect as you left it. No prob, just fill in the imperfections with a 2nd coat.
As mentioned above by others, surface must be squeeky clean with alcohol or a little MEK (for faster nervous system damage).
Also, if you also use additional fasteners, wait a day for the adhesive to start to cure before you crank them down. Otherwise you squish most of the adhesive out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
I would NOT use 3M 5200 on anything you think you might ever want to remove.


3M 4000/4200 is prescribed for these locations where you may want to remove them in the future.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
3M5200 comes off with a heated putty knife.
Not sure how we got on the subject of adhesives and sealants.

I tend to look at 5200 as being 'permanent'.

I do plan to reseal my roof sooner than later. When I do, I am planning to use the Dicor product. I just need to be sitting still for awhile somewhere it isn't raining. Florida in the summer does not match that description. We will likely be setting the RV up somewhere in AZ this month, so I might be able to get to that project after I return from tending to rentals in WA.
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Old 08-16-2020, 07:18 PM   #64
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Florida in the summer does not match that description. We will likely be setting the RV up somewhere in AZ this month, so I might be able to get to that project after I return from tending to rentals in WA.
Ya know Kevin.....if it was me I'd either plan on staying in WA till October or head to the mountains if you're coming to AZ before then.....it's 116* in Phx/Yuma/Havasu today
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Old 08-17-2020, 07:36 AM   #65
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Most important

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Originally Posted by Hayduke View Post
Hello all

I am brand new to RVs, let alone our beloved Alpines. At this stage of my knowledge journey, I am better able to provide questions than answers.

There are many owners here that DO have answers to all the stupid questions I, and others, will come up with.

We are 'heading south' this Saturday.
oh wait... wrong icon. I meant

Since I know my supply of dumb questions is about to increase rapidly, I thought I would make one place to put all of them.

I've seen a similar thread on other forums. Rather than everyone creating a new thread for every question, we can just ask them here. These are quick questions like, "where can I look for my furnace?" Obviously if someone needs help troubleshooting something complex, it deserves it's own thread.


So with that overly long introduction out of the way, here is my first stupid question...

As noted above, we are leaving in 5 days.
about sums it up

What is the most important thing we need to check before we depart?

The dealer didn't "service" the engine, but they went through everything and said we are good to go. We did one test trip of a couple nights and everything worked fine but the furnace. I fixed the furnace.

There are a few little things we will fix down south, but what is the thing you think is the most important thing I should do before we depart?

ya ya, not a 'simple' question, but it is certainly a stupid one
In my opinion:
Change fluids and filters (if you don't have history or its due)
Belts and hoses detail inspection
Tires, check for age, date stamped on tire, anout 7 yrs max
Do a short shake down trip, 200 - 400 miles round trip.
Plan trip as best as possible, even though you have GPS, have back up paper map.
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Old 08-19-2020, 05:24 PM   #66
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This is definitely a stupid question and I just hope someone knows what I’m talking about. On some of my windows (outside), there are black plastic pieces that cover two slits in the bottom of the window frame. The only windows that have them are the ones in the front of the RV. None of the other windows have them but they have the slits. Have they fallen out? Are they supposed to have them? And what the heck are they and what do they do?

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Old 08-19-2020, 05:49 PM   #67
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….some owners complained over time that the weep holes in the window frames "whistle" at hi-way speeds....have not experienced this myself--but the inserts were designed to eliminate this whistling...don't know if they were ever installed as OEM, but perhaps they were on some model years?????
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Old 08-19-2020, 05:49 PM   #68
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This is definitely a stupid question and I just hope someone knows what Im talking about. On some of my windows (outside), there are black plastic pieces that cover two slits in the bottom of the window frame. The only windows that have them are the ones in the front of the RV. None of the other windows have them but they have the slits. Have they fallen out? Are they supposed to have them? And what the heck are they and what do they do?

Dwayne and Kristi
2006 Alpine Coach 34 FDDS

They were to cut down on wind noise as you travel down the road.
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Old 08-19-2020, 05:59 PM   #69
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Again, yall are awesome!
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Old 08-21-2020, 02:19 PM   #70
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I had no idea about the wind noise covers/inserts

Quote:
Originally Posted by paul65k View Post
Ya know Kevin.....if it was me I'd either plan on staying in WA till October or head to the mountains if you're coming to AZ before then.....it's 116* in Phx/Yuma/Havasu today
We are in AZ right now, but at 6980 ft at our place in Flagstaff. Move date for tenant in WA wash pushed 2 weeks, so our urgency has lessened.

We will probably leave early this week, but will not make big mile days as I'll be working and driving (not at the same time) and I prefer to drive in daylight. Planning 3ish hour hops each day, but I might push through the lower elevation sections to get back to cooler temps. This heat wave has given me new things to think about when driving our house around.

We crossed the desert between Mammoth Lakes and Flagstaff (actually we camped about an hour west between Ash Fork and Williams) in one long night last week. If we stopped, it would have meant I had to sit and work in that heat.

Once we get to WA, we already have rough plans that won't have us leaving until October anyway. Likely the end of October.

Curtis (not sure if he is on this forum, but has almost twin coach) recently texted me they travel like a tumbleweed. I like that. This tumbleweed's wind pushing it north died down a bit, but it's still blowing that direction and we will get rolling again soon.


I do have another stupid question though...
And it's stupid because I know I saw it discussed, but can't find it now.
How unlevel can I be to run the original fridge?
and related, how unlevel to open a slide?

When we were in Santa Rosa, we had to park in a pretty unlevel area. My FIL had some bricks I used in conjunction with some of those garbage plastic lego things. We were not level. Felt like a fun house the whole 3 days we were there.

Right now, it's parked on the street in front of the house. No slides out, but the fridge is still on. Easy enough to bring things inside until we leave. We did that last time to defrost, but I wanted to keep it cold this time.

What do you guys do when the place you need to park on is very unlevel?
I've destroyed most of my Lynx Levelers, so I don't think I want to buy more of those.
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