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Old 08-23-2020, 12:33 PM   #85
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...actually, air pressure is used to release, not apply the parking brake on all but the 1998 an 1999 models, so technically I guess it is "air actuated".....
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Old 08-23-2020, 12:33 PM   #86
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That’s the exact process I planned to use. My bum Jack is the passenger side though
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Old 08-23-2020, 12:41 PM   #87
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...number of potential causes for sticky jacks; solutions like new springs or solenoids are options, but an easy one is to spray and wipe down the piston ram with WD-40 [per HWH] and then use a "q-tip" or other like swab to clean the seal inside the housing on the bottom of the cylinder...
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Old 08-23-2020, 12:56 PM   #88
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This has been one of the more active threads here in the Alpine Forum.


BUT (yes, large BUT) many owners come to this site to help solve issues.



So, my suggestion is that if you are posting about a mechanical problem and/or solution, updating the coach, etc , START A NEW THREAD.


That will allow someone doing a search in the future to find the discussion.


Thanks.


Brett
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:21 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
...actually, air pressure is used to release, not apply the parking brake on all but the 1998 an 1999 models, so technically I guess it is "air actuated".....
Interesting....it the system uses air to release the parking brakes, what does the system use to set the brakes if not air???
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:30 PM   #90
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...a very large spring!!!
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Old 08-23-2020, 11:49 PM   #91
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In my coach that switch controls the large fluorescent light fixture over the range/kitchen counter. Mine worked on the inverter when we were not plugged in, although it was difficult to reach the switch if the slide is in.
Thanks, I think this is what my switch is for also. Canít get that light to lite, but the switch feels a little funky. May need a new switch.
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Old 08-24-2020, 07:18 AM   #92
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Please, please, please for those that have Air Brakes, take a class or read up on your brake system. How they work, how to operate them, pre checks, how to perform safety checks, (when your alarm comes on, how long to pump up for alarm off, top pressure, etc. even slack adjusters.)
Itís amazing you can drive a tiny car prior to you buying your first big rig and the salesman just hands you the keys and waves bye, bye!
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Old 08-24-2020, 09:17 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by Fireairdrop View Post
Please, please, please for those that have Air Brakes, take a class or read up on your brake system. How they work, how to operate them, pre checks, how to perform safety checks, (when your alarm comes on, how long to pump up for alarm off, top pressure, etc. even slack adjusters.)
It’s amazing you can drive a tiny car prior to you buying your first big rig and the salesman just hands you the keys and waves bye, bye!
Alpine Coaches (except the very low production Avalanche) all came standard with 4 wheel ABS hydraulic disc brakes, but your point is well taken, spend some serious time getting to know how your coach braking system actually works and what to expect in panic stops
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Old 08-24-2020, 09:38 AM   #94
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I got rid of the LEGO leveling blocks they were crappy, so I bought theses ;

Camco Yellow Drive On Tri-Leveler, Raises Your RV Up by 3-7/8" Works on Any Tire , Has B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUQOFO...s_api_i_9EqqFb...

And now Iím happy!
Will those work on my big 22.5 in tires?
I've seen those, but I was worried the landings were not a large enough footprint for my large tires. I'm a little afraid of plastic too now. I tried to use the Lynx levelers under the jacks. They just smash them. My coach is heavy.

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3 degrees left and right, 6 degrees front to back for frig.
Level for slide out - don't know exact, but no more than 2 - 3 degrees.
Leveling blocks - made mine from 2 X 12s, pressure treated. The ones I have are 30+ years old.
I think I might pick up a level mate pro so I can see just how far out of level I am. Do you have something that shows you how out of level you are?

I calibrated my HWH the very first time we used it, but either it's went out of calibration again, or it has a wide margin of error. I found a video on youtube of another coach with the same HWH system. He said the computer never got it perfect, and he always had to fine tune it manually. That's been my experience as well. Most of the time I don't even bother with the computer.

I had some blocks made from treated 2x10 (I think may have been 12). I had used them as wheel chocks while we were camp hosting in FL. During that time, some ant took up residence. They got into the coach basement as a result, and even after I put them outside, sprayed them, and then parked on them in CA for a couple days, there were still ants. We left them in CA.

Maybe I'll just make some new ones out of new lumber. My old ones were splitting as well, but I think that was due to their age. I have some scrap wood here in Flagstaff I can use to get me up to WA. There, I already plan to repair part of the deck up there. That will require I buy a large plank of treated lumber, but I only need a small piece for my repair. I'll use the rest to make some new wooden blacks and see how that goes.

I wonder if I can soak them in some sort of bug repellent?

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Walsh Road??...........we were just in that neck of the woods last week at a Boondockers Welcome location in Bellemont.....and they even had a 50A hookup and we used it .......pretty bad when even Flagstaff is hot

One of the best additions we made were the permanently attached jackpads......and while they only provide an additional 1" of height they also increase the size of the footprint by almost 80%.....highly recommended.
Welch Rd.
Didn't stay long. Arrived very late, and left around 8 or 9AM to finish the drive up the mountain to Flagstaff. I liked the area though. Nice and level, and looks like we could have gotten further from the highway. At least we were further than a typical rest area.

Flagstaff got well into the 90s during the heat wave, but the monsoons seem to have cooled it down a lot. Of course that means it's rained everyday we've been here.

The jack feet are a good idea. We will have to get some at some point. We have had the jacks push right into the ground multiple times. I just got used to always using a block, but then we had to abandon the ones with ants living inside.
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Old 08-25-2020, 01:02 AM   #95
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I go to Lowes or HD and get two 8í PT 2 x 10ís. I cut them into 3í lengths (with a 2í section left over. I put cheap drawer pulls on one end of all 6 pieces. With 3í pieces I can get the 2 x 10 under the jack and the pull is just about even with the edge of the coach, no more bending down to reach under for the pads. The 2í pieces are good when I can use an extra 1 1/2 of lift. The pads usually last about 2 years, then I just throw them into a campfire (donít get down wind) and buy new ones.
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Old 08-25-2020, 08:28 AM   #96
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We have stick on levels for inital set up. Final level is done by co-polit using a torpedo level (available everywhere for a few bucks) on the kitchen counter. Don't use auto level, it runs us up to high. The entire process takes us about 10 minutes, including placement of 2 X 12 blocks/pads. We don't place our blocks/pads under the wheels, but rather under the leveling jacks. I screwed Eye-bolts into the blocks/pads and use an awning hook to push them in place and pull them back out. We just never been in a spot so out of level that we a need to block our tires. Block as under the, we do chock our drive wheels.

Like I said from pulling into the spot to a cold beer is 10 minutes.
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Old 08-25-2020, 08:49 AM   #97
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Quote:
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...a very large spring!!!
Thanks!!
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Old 08-26-2020, 12:14 AM   #98
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I go to Lowes or HD and get two 8í PT 2 x 10ís. ones.

Why go thru the hassle and extra expense and hazardous material handling of the poisonous Pressure Treated wood ? Doesn't sound like you hang on to it long enough for any real benefits.


I hope everyone using PT is handling it with gloves. That stuff is nasty !
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