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Old 07-14-2014, 05:42 PM   #43
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Frank & Dean- IIRC Mike Kelley noted elsewhere he removed the AC coil from the radiator stack & remounted it forward under the entry steps w/an electric fan. Takes some freon hose work. I presume the fan is enabled by the high pressure switch or maybe just comes on w/there is a call for AC.
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:17 PM   #44
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YUP--I continue to ponder that solution--but based on discussion with a local company that upgrades A/C for stretch limoes, buses, etc, I am looking at leaving the existing condensor in place and adding a secondary condensor with electric fans controlled by the aux pressure switch on the ACME A/C system. So far the primary challenge has been finding a generic condensor that has the dimensions and in/outlet config. to accommodate what I want to do. Most purveyors of automotive condensors want to know what model [eg. Ford or Chevy?] so they can sell you an OEM replacement. I may end up buying the generic condensor/fan package from the local upgrade company.....
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Old 12-10-2019, 05:34 PM   #45
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I ordered P/N 553/1/09857/190 from White House Products Ltd, Port Glasgow, Great Britain (Hydraulic Gear Pumps | White House Products | Hydraulic Pumps) over the weekend and received it the following Tuesday. Total cost including priority shipment was 238.20 pounds - $313.63. Online ordering was as easy as Amazon.
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Old 12-12-2019, 07:27 AM   #46
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Hey Frank, great update on thermo- valve availability....this subject has been off the "radar screen" for quite a while. Curious as to what prompted you to pursue a new valve? Did you have an engine cooling issue?
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:06 PM   #47
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When I replaced my electronic unit with a thermo valve I ordered a 210 degree valve from white horse I should have ordered a 200 degree as my motor is almost always at 210 degrees except on a steep mountain grade then it is at 220. I also added a 1/4” high pressure valve to one of the new hoses so I could force the fan to operate at full speed or anywhere in between if needed in a pinch. Also added 2 fans in front of the a/c condenser as I had 2” of room so far so good. Moving the condenser would be a better choice but this was easier for me.
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Old 12-17-2019, 10:06 AM   #48
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Quote:
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Also added 2 fans in front of the a/c condenser as I had 2Ē of room so far so good. Moving the condenser would be a better choice but this was easier for me.
Roy1, could you post a link to the fans you used? I donít have a problem with cooling since my wax valve conversion, my problem is with intake manifold temperature when cold. When getting underway, it takes 15 to 20 minutes to get up to operating temperature. During this time, intake temperature rises to over 150 degrees due to the fan not running. This is getting close to engine shut down warning. The electric fans would help pull air through the CAC during warmup. Adding the restrictor could solve this, but this causes the fan to run all the time.

Iíve also copied Old Scoutís idea of moving the A/C condenser off the radiator stack to the front. I believe this also helps with cooling since you donít have a condenser to restrict air flow to the radiator.

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Old 12-17-2019, 12:58 PM   #49
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WOW--this is like a trip down "memory lane." Recall that a few Alpine owners have added electric fans to the radiator stack. Even with the AC condenser moved, I didn't have room without a substantial mod to the grill and stack. Moving the condenser forward and adding fans, totally solved the AC/ engine fan interface issue. Yup--still have the issue of occasional intake hi-temps. On cool mornings, engine doesn't call for fan cooling but CAC heats up with compression. It was interesting to see the situation play out when I installed SilverLeaf. Intake temps rise steadily until engine coolant reaches sufficient ops temp--then fan kicks in and intake temps drop. Cummins is pretty smart--figure it would de-rate engine if intake temps were to go critical???? Some have added a reduction orifice to fan motor control hose to maintain a minimum fan speed, regardless of engine temps.
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Old 12-18-2019, 12:14 AM   #50
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Bill : of the 2 fans I used the one that moved the most air was a fan I removed from a 40 ford hot rod remote a/c condenser. Looked like a duct work booster fan I tried to identify it by the mfg but no luck the 2nd fan I bought by choosing the most cfm and fan size that fit between the grill and condenser coil. If you have access to a wrecking yard OEM fans that are thin enough that just fit might be the best choice. They need to be pusher fans. I also used a relay with the holding coil energized from the a/c clutch. I’m also thinking I should also add a temperature klixon to the turbo pipe going to the intake to energize those fans through another relay just in case the after cooler needs help. Rather then install an orfice in the hydrolic line I would get a 1/4” Parker hi pressure valve and install it in the line then you can set the fan idle speed where you want it or full on if the thermo valve fails to operate properly. Moving the a/c condenser like old scout did is the best way to go but requires a lot of work and repiping of the discharge line.
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