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09-19-2021, 12:45 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 201
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Thoughts on Driving Without Upper Insulation in Engine Compartment
Arrived at my current destination and heard a strange sound coming from the engine compartment. The upper insulation blanket came loose and is sitting on top of the engine!
I have some mounting tape and duct tape, may try putting it back in place temporarily, or, just remove it for later better installation at home. Thoughts?
__________________
2006 Alpine Apex 40 FDQS
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
2000 Vette for the track
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09-19-2021, 01:30 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 821
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If it’s a pusher I would say try getting it back up, but if you can’t I wouldn’t worry. If it’s a forward control unit you should get it back in there somehow. Being up front will add noise and heat directly in the driving space.
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09-19-2021, 01:43 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,867
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In your Alpine= Diesel Pusher, I would be concerned about any insulating material sitting directly on the engine. That exhaust manifold and turbo get extremely hot.
You also have a number of moving parts back there that could allow the material to get tangled
Either secure it properly or remove it.
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
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09-19-2021, 01:44 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 879
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I would double check to see if leaving it on would allow for it to get anywhere near any moving parts (ie: fan belts, alt, etc.) or lying on a source of high heat as Hpozzuoli stated, and if so I would go without it for now. ~CA
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09-19-2021, 02:33 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Yavapai
Posts: 574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBrzn2
Arrived at my current destination and heard a strange sound coming from the engine compartment. The upper insulation blanket came loose and is sitting on top of the engine!
I have some mounting tape and duct tape, may try putting it back in place temporarily, or, just remove it for later better installation at home. Thoughts?
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Unsure what the "strange noise" sounded like.. rattle ???
I drove for a while, apparently, with the insulation laying on the diesel. It may have caused two issues:
1) failure of a turbo hose, (power greatly reduced, fuel economy bettered)
2) burst failure of the 5/8" dash heater hose on the head, forward, looking under the raised bed. The 3"x6' metal strap that had been holding the insulation in place bounced on that hose, weakening it. Some of the 3" fender washers securing it in place were gone. Easy, cheap fix, after being towed.
You probably already know how heavy that blanket gets; hence why it fell. Removal is a dirty tugging match. The decision may be a toss-up, based upon the noise cause, how far you'll drive and input here.
I posted a thread on my insulation R&R project, plus another on installing SS vents in the 'hood'. EM reported driving with it open, for cooling, which I'd definitely do if you elect to remove the fallen section.
The heat in that compartment will rather quickly make ANY tape fail, Tape securing attempts seem a waste of time. WRV used adhesive and numerous mechanical fasteners.
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2007 Alpine SE 34FDDS + Cherokee Trailhawk
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09-19-2021, 04:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 201
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I appreciate the input. The blanket is indeed laying on the diesel. I’m driving 1200 miles home, thus, it seems that the best will be to pull the original blanket out, make sure that any supports are not interfering anywhere and deal with the heat in the closet and noise.
__________________
2006 Alpine Apex 40 FDQS
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
2000 Vette for the track
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09-19-2021, 05:21 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Sugar Grove IL
Posts: 409
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I would remove the blanket that is over top of the engine and the one on the driver’s side wall by the turbo. The blanket on the curbside wall on mine was still firmly attached and not loaded with dirt and oil like the others. It is amazing how much weight they pickup while in use. When you get home, you can take the time to do a nice job renewing everything. I ran mine without any insulation for a month while waiting for new material and making a template for what I replaced. The newer materials will not require you to use fender washers or support strips.
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Mack Mover
2003 Alpine 40 MDTS
400 ISL
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09-20-2021, 08:06 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 2,804
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This is what I used. In addition to the adhesive spray, I used some screws and large washers to mechanically attach.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Vera & Ken
1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial, RR8S Chassis
Cummins 6C8.3 mechanical engine, 325HP, 3060 Allison
Towing 2014 Ford Explorer
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09-20-2021, 12:15 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: FLORAL CITY,FL
Posts: 669
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Bruce Anthon, what material did you get? I need to replace mine too
Thank you in advance
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Dennis & Brenda
2017 Tiffin Phaeton 40 qbh
2022 Ford F350 Super Duty 6.7 PowerStroke
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09-21-2021, 09:04 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Sugar Grove IL
Posts: 409
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I used the HushMat products. There are some extensive pictures and discussions on how and what to use that have been posted over the last year or so. If you search F104 engine compartment insulation (or something similar) you should get a bunch of information. Or feel free to send me a PM and I would be glad to help you. I learned a lot doing mine and am very pleased with the results.
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Mack Mover
2003 Alpine 40 MDTS
400 ISL
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10-07-2021, 11:11 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: wherever we're parked
Posts: 363
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I just redid mine with the Hushmat product made for the inside of a car hood, ie made to stick upside down in a hot environment.
I ordered from Home Depot. The ~$100 boxes have 6 sheets. I bought 3 boxes to line the entire engine bay, minus the passenger side. Like the above poster, that side was still firmly attached, and held in place by the filter canister.
Get some sort of roller to 'pressure activate' the adhesive. I bought one intended for wall paper seams. I did mine in 2 phases, ie box 1, then boxes 2 and 3. I didn't have the roller initially. Box 1 I got pressed down pretty well with my fingers, but it was hard. In phase 2 I didn't press it down as well, and it was coming down the next morning. I went and got the roller and rolled the entire engine bay.
To address the original question...
Yes, you can drive it without that insulation. I drove mine over 100 miles missing most of it. It was both louder and warmer in the bedroom.
__________________
2005 Alpine Coach 40FDTS
1968 VW Campmobile (toad)
Full timers, Kevin and Jacquie
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10-08-2021, 09:51 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Red Bluff, Ca
Posts: 418
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Bruce, Hayduke, et al,
[QUOTE=Hayduke;5942218]I just redid mine with the Hushmat product made for the inside of a car hood
I ordered from Home Depot. The ~$100 boxes have 6 sheets.
The spec sheet for the Home Depot product says it is .6 inches thick.
Bruce says the material he used was about 1/8 inch.
Did you both use the same material?
I need to redo the engine room on my 1998 Alpine soon and would like to use the most effective product.
Thanks for your input.
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Gene
1998 36FDS Alpine
Red Bluff, Ca.
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10-08-2021, 11:07 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Just a point to make about sound proofing.
There are two causes of sound production within the vehicle, vibration of the metal panels and transmission of the sound waves through or to the panels. Each cause is addressed differently. Sound deadening/dampening deals with the vibration, sound absorbing deals with the transmission of sound waves.
Hushmat and the like products are designed to reduce the vibration of the metal panels to which they are adhered. That, in turn, reduces the noise transmitted to the interior of the vehicle through vibration/oscillation of the metal. These products only need to be applied to about 1/3 of the metal panel to be effective. Adding more just increases weight. However, if you wish to include heat reflection, full application will work.
Transmission of sound waves to and through the metal is done by "disconnecting" the sound waves from the panels by air pockets. That's why the engine compartment of cars and RVs have a blanket of fiberglass or foam material on the underside to absorb the sound waves from the engine and road. The OEM blanket provides that sound absorbing function.
The ideal soundproofing of the engine bay would include both types of materials. First, a partial covering of the metal panels by the heavy solid material like Hushmat, but without the foil. Then, a complete covering of the bay with a blanket/thermal barrier that has a reflective foil. OEM used the blanket without the heavy vibration reducing material, but achieved sound deadening and heat transfer reduction into the interior.
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Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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10-08-2021, 11:32 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,867
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With the engine/drive train 30+ feet behind you, not sure sound-deadening is as critical an issue as this discussion is indicating.
Yes, if you are very sensitive to noise or have someone traveling in the rear of the coach, certainly worth extra effort.
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
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