To DIY or not DIY

[HamboneTHW]

Originally Posted by Wundertaker

I do take exception to your Cheerios comment...no need for that as I was being sincere in trying to give you things to consider from both sides of the coin. I guess I understand now that you really didn't want what you asked for. Also, I mentioned that the final decision is YOURS! I still stand by my advice as it was given with the desire to help NOT hurt!

Just because you watched some YouTube's does not mean you "know" how to do something...as I found out a couple times...and yes I do a lot of my own repairs and maintenance...but not all! Best of luck!

My apologies. While I understand where you're coming from, I think that anyone that doesn't utilize youtube videos that are readily available is foolish. If nothing else, they reiterate what I'm already researching and picturing in my head. The use of a torque wrench isn't rocket science; set it to the proper setting and tighten.

You are right, I should have accepted all views. I just feel that at the point you commented, the "ability" of me to be able to complete these tasks had been answered. I'm not looking to rebuild the transmission, simply change the fluid and filters. I also tend to be pretty thorough in multiple checks to ensure nothing is leaking and triple checking my work.

$115 per hour and quoting 3 hours for a job that takes 1.5 hours makes it seem that I'm in the wrong business

I do appreciate all of the input I've received here, including yours. With all of the money that I've put into the coach, I feel that the labor investment required to have a shop perform straightforward maintenance is not warranted.

Just out of curiosity, what maintenance do you perform yourself versus having a shop perform. I'm still learning, so I like to get everyone's take.

[HamboneTHW]

Originally Posted by wolfe10

And, there is more to the coolant filter than "just changing it".

It is one of the few filters that requires testing BEFORE ORDERING THE CORRECT FILTER.

If one of the newer generations OAT-based coolants the ONLY filter you use is a BLANK (filter media, but zero SCA).

If you have the older-generation "low silicate for diesel coolants with SCA" the SCA level needs to be TESTED. That will tell you what filter you need. Too much or too little is bad.

And, this older generation coolant has a shorter live expectancy-- less than 1/2 that of the newer-generation coolants.

Brett,

I have spoken with a few owners... The report on the coolant came back with no discrepancies noted and SCA level of 2.1 and 47% antifreeze. The service bulletin says nothing is required unless SCA drops below 1.3. I know that the upper band is 5.0. I'm planning to buy the test kit and test on a regular basis to ensure I remain above 1.3.

My questions are: Once it drops below 1.3 should I flush the system and replace with OAT? Or should I simply add the DCA4? How often do you normally flush the coolant if everything continues to come back normal (I know what the book says, but I don't feel RV's put large amounts of stress on the engine)?

Just interested to get multiple perspectives on what everyone is doing. Thanks in advance.

[Old Scout]

....for the older Cummins ISL 400 engines WITH coolant filters, you could buy them with 0 thru 4 units of DCS/SCA. Depending on the test strip or analysis results, you could decide which level of filter to buy--not sure how you decide. Could be wrong here but with the Pegasus engines--2005 and newer, think Cummins [at least for Alpines], did away with the coolant filter....So my 2003 has a coolant filter, pretty sure your 2005 does not.

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Brett,

My questions are: Once it drops below 1.3 should I flush the system and replace with OAT? Or should I simply add the DCA4? How often do you normally flush the coolant if everything continues to come back normal (I know what the book says, but I don't feel RV's put large amounts of stress on the engine)?

Not familiar with those SCA readings. SCA concentration is generally expressed in PPM (parts per million). 1200 PPM is ideal. But, coolant should also be changed if freeze point is too high (not your issue) OR if/when it becomes acidic. The test strips from Wix I use have on them in writing, that pH of 7.0 is marginal. 6.5 has the caption "unsatisfactory-- needs immediate attention".

Note, that if both pH is low AND SCA concentration is low, adding SCA will also raise the pH. That may extend the coolant life a few months.

[Wundertaker]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

My apologies. While I understand where you're coming from, I think that anyone that doesn't utilize youtube videos that are readily available is foolish. If nothing else, they reiterate what I'm already researching and picturing in my head. The use of a torque wrench isn't rocket science; set it to the proper setting and tighten.

You are right, I should have accepted all views. I just feel that at the point you commented, the "ability" of me to be able to complete these tasks had been answered. I'm not looking to rebuild the transmission, simply change the fluid and filters. I also tend to be pretty thorough in multiple checks to ensure nothing is leaking and triple checking my work.

$115 per hour and quoting 3 hours for a job that takes 1.5 hours makes it seem that I'm in the wrong business

I do appreciate all of the input I've received here, including yours. With all of the money that I've put into the coach, I feel that the labor investment required to have a shop perform straightforward maintenance is not warranted.

Just out of curiosity, what maintenance do you perform yourself versus having a shop perform. I'm still learning, so I like to get everyone's take.

Tommy...i certainly am a big fan of YouTube's and watch them a lot...they've helped me many times also. And I do apologize as I wasn't questioning your ability at all! I was really meaning anyone's ability including my own! I've watched my YouTube's and then decided that the task at hand was outside my comfort zone, and I'm fairly good with a wrench and I know you are.

Again...meant no harm or insult, as that's not who I am. I sincerely hope all your repairs and maintenance go well! HAVE A GREAT AND SAFE YEAR OF RVING !

[HamboneTHW]

Originally Posted by wolfe10

Not familiar with those SCA readings. SCA concentration is generally expressed in PPM (parts per million). 1200 PPM is ideal. But, coolant should also be changed if freeze point is too high (not your issue) OR if/when it becomes acidic. The test strips from Wix I use have on them in writing, that pH of 7.0 is marginal. 6.5 has the caption "unsatisfactory-- needs immediate attention".

Note, that if both pH is low AND SCA concentration is low, adding SCA will also raise the pH. That may extend the coolant life a few months.

Thanks Brett!

[HamboneTHW]

Originally Posted by Old Scout

....for the older Cummins ISL 400 engines WITH coolant filters, you could buy them with 0 thru 4 units of DCS/SCA. Depending on the test strip or analysis results, you could decide which level of filter to buy--not sure how you decide. Could be wrong here but with the Pegasus engines--2005 and newer, think Cummins [at least for Alpines], did away with the coolant filter....So my 2003 has a coolant filter, pretty sure your 2005 does not.

Old Scout, the manual that came with the RV from Cummins says no filter. I'm going to get under it to change the oil and transmission fluid. I'll check just to make sure.

As always, thanks for insight!

[wolfe10]

If you have "low silicate for diesels with added SCA" coolant, SCA can be added either in a filter OR as a liquid.

Best to check with the maker of your coolant for their recommendation on liquid additive compatible with their formulary.

[Rich and Cork]

Originally Posted by wolfe10

And, there is more to the coolant filter than "just changing it".

It is one of the few filters that requires testing BEFORE ORDERING THE CORRECT FILTER.

If one of the newer generations OAT-based coolants the ONLY filter you use is a BLANK (filter media, but zero SCA).

If you have the older-generation "low silicate for diesel coolants with SCA" the SCA level needs to be TESTED. That will tell you what filter you need. Too much or too little is bad.

And, this older generation coolant has a shorter live expectancy-- less than 1/2 that of the newer-generation coolants.

What would a blank filter number be?

[Spk64]

Originally Posted by Rich and Cork

What would a blank filter number be?

WF2077 is what I had written down for our ISL400

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by Spk64

WF2077 is what I had written down for our ISL400

Correct. That is a filter blank-- provides filtration, but zero SCA.

[RVPioneer]

Originally Posted by Wundertaker

First, what is advice if not an opinion? Advice is a suggestion, also known as an "opinion" as to what someone may want to do...or not! May I ask you What the Title of this thread is?..."To DIY or not DIY"!...in others words...Should I do this myself or not? That's clearly asking for an "Opinion". So, in good faith DO NOT criticise me for giving an opposing view just because I don't agree with you. Part of the OP getting good advice is looking at an issue from "all sides" NOT just yours! And then letting HIM DECIDE!

PM forthcoming.

[RVPioneer]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Brett,

I have spoken with a few owners... The report on the coolant came back with no discrepancies noted and SCA level of 2.1 and 47% antifreeze. The service bulletin says nothing is required unless SCA drops below 1.3. I know that the upper band is 5.0. I'm planning to buy the test kit and test on a regular basis to ensure I remain above 1.3.

My questions are: Once it drops below 1.3 should I flush the system and replace with OAT? Or should I simply add the DCA4? How often do you normally flush the coolant if everything continues to come back normal (I know what the book says, but I don't feel RV's put large amounts of stress on the engine)?

Just interested to get multiple perspectives on what everyone is doing. Thanks in advance.

Regarding converting to OAT, there is a thread on the Cummins forum advising to confirm with Cummins that your engine is compatible with OAT coolant.

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by RVPioneer

Regarding converting to OAT, there is a thread on the Cummins forum advising to confirm with Cummins that your engine is compatible with OAT coolant.

Wonder what engines are not compatible with OAT-based coolants.

They are used as OE coolant by several chassis/coach makers (who use Cummins engines).