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Old 11-24-2018, 07:08 AM   #15
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I wonder if the keyed switch between the house and chassis disconnects in the battery bay is inadvertently in the ON position when it should be OFF.
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Old 11-24-2018, 07:14 AM   #16
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OOPS--my bad--I missed the obvious--OP mentioned that OEM solenoid was replaced with an aftermarket combiner. Who know how new combiner has been integrated into existing Alpine wiring?
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Old 11-24-2018, 08:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
OOPS--my bad--I missed the obvious--OP mentioned that OEM solenoid was replaced with an aftermarket combiner. Who know how new combiner has been integrated into existing Alpine wiring?
Oh, well, that sure complicates things just a bit, now doesn't it. I'd say the OP is a test pilot now.
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:58 AM   #18
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Since the installed relay ( solenoid ) has all of the logic it needs to handle bi-directional charging, don't try to incorporate the VANSCO system into it.
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Old 11-24-2018, 07:49 PM   #19
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Red face

Quote:
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Since the installed relay ( solenoid ) has all of the logic it needs to handle bi-directional charging, don't try to incorporate the VANSCO system into it.
I dislike like things that do not operate. In this case, it's the dash Boost switch.


Worse, it's 'no-man's land' where, unlike a test pilot who has enginering support, I have no idea what other functions are altered.



Despite some issues, WRV knew what they built, quite well.
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Old 11-24-2018, 09:31 PM   #20
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….think TB nailed it--by installing an aftermarket isolator solenoid vs the OEM solution, all bets are off as to what WRV intended, or how the boost switch works...have to admit though, I have kind'a lost track as to what the original problem was?????.
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:26 PM   #21
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I understand, as there was a bit of a mess.


Initially, the coach wouldn't start w/o Boost, via the dash. Then, only if I closed the EMER Boost, after the dash did nothing.


Along the solution path, he found no fuse in the coach feed and the solar feed wires reversed; installed a new solar controller as the easiest fix, versus tearing up the coach.


In ensuring all operated properly, the solenoid became a question but neither of us knew the full logic of the Vansco's ops.


I am now wondering if the dioded Trombetti was okay afteral. I like its smart features but want the dash Boost swith to function as intended.


I've assembled a number of posts, using the f104 search you suggested, into one file; then sent the tech my concerns and more wiring details, courtesy of this brain trust.



Do I understand WRV's design correctly?
1) The solenoid is closed by Vansco for charging operation (primary batt system is above the set point where the 2ndary system gets charged), indicated by LED 19 lit.

2) It also is closed via the dash switch for boost (momentary).


If true, my solenoid may have been okay, as the charge action would keep the Vansco "close" command in effect, after any boost command had ended; hence hot to the touch(normal)and 12v from the trigger wire, which he considered abnormal.
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Old 11-25-2018, 09:53 AM   #22
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Very shortly after buying my coach I went through a very similar situation with dead starting batteries while plugged in. (Been sitting several year when I bought it.)
I can't stress enough that a volt meter alone will not give a complete picture of what is going on.
I'm my case everything work as it should, lights on the Vansco and the switch. Everything checked out with my multi better, but the same test with a test light no.

Long story short after reading the old post about the contacts getting burnt in the Trombetta, I replaced it with the same unit and bought a spare as well.
This type of system is used by many manufacturers and I didn't see any reason to temp routing around or damaging the Vansco by putting something different in when the original is readily available.
Food for thought, not sure exactly how your tec. was checking things.
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Old 11-26-2018, 07:11 AM   #23
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A digital meter can indeed fool you.

Take one lead and put it on the negative lead of a battery. Put the positive lead between your fingers and then with the other hand touch the positive lead. You will read full battery voltage if you are making good contact.

That is not sufficient current to run most things. So a weak circuit can read full voltage.

A test light usually puts enough load on a circuit to test it properly. However some test lights are using led's instead of (dome light bulbs) that draw sufficient current.
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:47 AM   #24
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Do I understand WRV's design correctly?
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Old 11-26-2018, 03:07 PM   #25
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With the coach on shore power or generator the charger charges the coach batteries. When the coach batteries get to 13 volts the Vansco thru output number 19 will energize the solenoid and combine the two battery banks so they both get charged.

When the engine is running the alternator charges the chassis batteries. When they get to 13 volts the Vansco thru number 19 output energizes the solenoid combining the batteries and charging both banks.

There is a short delay after reaching 13 volts before the solenoid is engaged.
When the voltage drops below 13 volts the solenoid will disengage separating the battery banks.

Pushing the boost button energizes the solenoid thru number 19 output immediately when pushed.
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:24 AM   #26
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Again, I totally appreciate the feedback/help. Perhaps my learning curve is flattening out.

Quote:
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….think TB nailed it
Agreed, and early on!

FWIW, I opted to leave things as they are, as the 'smart' controller does what the Vansco does. That new unit has many years of reliability, in marine applications, too, reportedly better than the stock solenoid. Due to the magnetic latching, it draws very low power so nearly all charge amperage goes for that purpose, not to keeping the solenoid closed. At any time, the Boost switch wire can be reattached, bypassing the new unit's smart aspects.

Hopefully, with all new battereis and the solar functioning to keep the batteries charged, I'll neither need it anytime soon nor often.


I view this as an upgrade.
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