Community Forums

Janet and Todd · 10-07-2016, 04:53 PM

I've been experiencing battery drain on the chassis batteries for quite some time. For the past year or so, I've been using a charger to maintain these batteries. While servicing the batteries recently, I noticed that the right lead for the small terminal was loose. Closer examination disclosed that the lead was only connected by a few strands of copper wire. I obtained some Ancor marine ring terminals and started preparing the lead wire for the new terminal by cutting the black shrink tube on the lead and as I did so, I noticed that the shrink tube was brittle and so was the insulation on the wire inside. Closer examination disclosed that in addition to the stranded copper wire, a lead, such as you might find coming out of a resistor, capacitor or diode. The shrink tubing also had a swelled area further up the line which is most likely the component attached to this metal lead.

The question is, what is this component and what is it's purpose? Does anyone have any idea?

Be that as it may, I attached the new ring terminal, shrunk the heat shrink and connected it and for the last three days, Vansco #19 has remained on while on shore power and the house and chassis batteries are showing equal charge of 13.4 V and this is with the Inverter fan OFF. I am hopeful that I've cured my problem with the chassis battery discharge and that the system is working as it was designed to work.

Wil Rathke · 10-08-2016, 07:02 AM

I would guess that this was a diode and it is there to prevent the inductive surge voltage from getting back into the Vansco electronic switch.

Janet and Todd · 10-12-2016, 09:08 PM

So it's been 7 days as of yesterday. Both banks of batteries are at 13.8. I don't think they've EVER been that high. I'm looking forward to DRR and not having to run the generator as much.

Arch Hoagland · 10-12-2016, 10:11 PM

Did you buy the coach new or used?

Janet and Todd · 10-13-2016, 01:03 PM

Used, 3 years ago, and still learning about the idiosyncrasies.

Dudley do-right · 10-22-2016, 09:33 AM

Janet & Todd... Tell me about it! We bought our 2nd Alpine last Apr. in Junction City. We went from an '07 36FDDS to an '06 40MDTS Apex, and I was confident that my experiences with the 36 would stand me in good stead. Boy was I wrong. I've been chasing mysterious gremlins ever since we got it home, (New Orleans area). The latest things were an Aqua Hot that wouldn't fire off, (Seemed to self-cure) the tempering valve temp fluxuates, would love to turn it up a little if I could reach it, and my tank gauges don't work now, except for the LP; it reads. I'm thinking about contacting Ghost Busters to see if they can rid the coach of all the gremlins.
Dudley Do-Right, 2006 Apex 40 MDTS

DrDaveMA · 10-22-2016, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dudley do-ri

Janet & Todd... Tell me about it! We bought our 2nd Alpine last Apr. in Junction City. We went from an '07 36FDDS to an '06 40MDTS Apex, and I was confident that my experiences with the 36 would stand me in good stead. Boy was I wrong. I've been chasing mysterious gremlins ever since we got it home, (New Orleans area). The latest things were an Aqua Hot that wouldn't fire off, (Seemed to self-cure) the tempering valve temp fluxuates, would love to turn it up a little if I could reach it, and my tank gauges don't work now, except for the LP; it reads. I'm thinking about contacting Ghost Busters to see if they can rid the coach of all the gremlins.
Dudley Do-Right, 2006 Apex 40 MDTS

Dudley,

On the fluxuating water temp, that could be coming from a bad stir pump on the Hydro Hot. When you take the cover off it is the pump on the right hand side, between the burner and the cabinet wall (mounted on the cabinet wall), if it is not working that is one of the symptoms you could get.

When the HH won't fire do you get any lights on the control panel, I am thinking maybe a "low level light"?

If you are not already a member look at the RV Hydronics forum RV Hydronic Heater Forum Membership is free and Roger

does a great job moderating the blog. It is VERY helpful

DrDaveMA · 10-22-2016, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrDaveMA

Dudley,

On the fluxuating water temp, that could be coming from a bad stir pump on the Hydro Hot. When you take the cover off it is the pump on the right hand side, between the burner and the cabinet wall (mounted on the cabinet wall), if it is not working that is one of the symptoms you could get.

When the HH won't fire do you get any lights on the control panel, I am thinking maybe a "low level light"?

If you are not already a member look at the RV Hydronics forum RV Hydronic Heater Forum Membership is free and Roger

does a great job moderating the blog. It is VERY helpful

I found the pictures of when I replaced my stir pump. First one is an overall, the second one is the pump (with my "catch basin" under it to keep the floor from getting soaked). The third one is of the back of the HH, incase you have never seen it. on the 38' FDTS access is easy, just remove the carpeted walls in the bay in front of the passenger side rear wheels and you have both the Inverter and the HH, you just have to crawl all the way through from the passenger side.

DrDaveMA · 10-22-2016, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrDaveMA

I found the pictures of when I replaced my stir pump. First one is an overall, the second one is the pump (with my "catch basin" under it to keep the floor from getting soaked). The third one is of the back of the HH, incase you have never seen it. on the 38' FDTS access is easy, just remove the carpeted walls in the bay in front of the passenger side rear wheels and you have both the Inverter and the HH, you just have to crawl all the way through from the passenger side.

OK, I will try one more time, I forgot to press the "Upload" button. Picture 2 is turned 90 degrees, sorry.

Janet and Todd · 10-22-2016, 12:22 PM

Ok, I forgive the threadjack. We're having a new AquaHot installed this week. They have the old one out and wow, the wet bay is nasty with old diesel, boiler coolant and road grime. The HH has 3000 hours on it. It's being replaced because the boiler is leaking which is a catastrophic failure. The tech is putting brass risers on the back of the unit so that the next tech in the future will have an easier time dealing with any leaks.

While it's out, I'm having them replace the hose reel. I think moisture in the wet bay has taken it's toll on the bearings of this unit.

Arch Hoagland · 10-22-2016, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Janet and Todd

Ok, I forgive the threadjack. We're having a new AquaHot installed this week. They have the old one out and wow, the wet bay is nasty with old diesel, boiler coolant and road grime. The HH has 3000 hours on it. It's being replaced because the boiler is leaking which is a catastrophic failure. The tech is putting brass risers on the back of the unit so that the next tech in the future will have an easier time dealing with any leaks.

While it's out, I'm having them replace the hose reel. I think moisture in the wet bay has taken it's toll on the bearings of this unit.

How much does a new AquaHot cost installed? It seems they are problematic as I've seen many posts about them over the years and have camped next to three different people who had RV repair guys come out to work on their AquaHot unit.

harris155 · 10-23-2016, 05:38 AM

The question is, what is this component and what is it's purpose? Does anyone have any idea?

Measure the voltage on this terminal to ground. It could be a voltage dropping resistor to help the coil last longer.
Probably not a good idea as the resistor would also overheat under the heat shrink.

Another way to check this device is to measure the ring connector to where is joins the printed circuit board. A lot of meters have diode settings as well as resistance scales.

I was overheating these contactors out every two years until I installed a small bulb in series. The bulb has low resistance when cold to slam the contacts closed but shares the voltage when warm. I read that tip on this forum, what a simple great idea.

If in one place for a long time like I made up a jumper to take the place of the contacts and unhook the coil lead.

Dudley do-right · 10-23-2016, 02:23 PM

Dr.DaveMA;
Thanks for your input. I've got a whole set of specs I downloaded from Aqua Hot about a year and a half ago while working on the Aqua Hot on our 36. All the trouble shooting and repair info. There's a lot of stuff there, and I could have easily overlooked the temp flux info re the stir pump, although I do remember seeing a part about having virtually no heat for the coach if the stir pump went out. I guess the same would go for the potableHW also. It did say that the burner assm. has to come out in order to replace the pump. Also, the old style pump is out of production now. I had to replace the circ. pump for the foreward area of the RV right after we got it. It is not nearly as robust as the old pump...didn't inspire much confidence on my part. They send a retrofit kit with the new pump, but the stuff they sent didn't quite work, so I had to make a trip to the hardware store to get it hooked up. It wasn't an easy replacement; had to remove the old mounting bracket first, and it wasn't very easy to remove. Guess I'll order a nozzle while I'm at it...Dudley

DrDaveMA · 10-23-2016, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Janet and Todd

Ok, I forgive the threadjack. We're having a new AquaHot installed this week. They have the old one out and wow, the wet bay is nasty with old diesel, boiler coolant and road grime. The HH has 3000 hours on it. It's being replaced because the boiler is leaking which is a catastrophic failure. The tech is putting brass risers on the back of the unit so that the next tech in the future will have an easier time dealing with any leaks.

While it's out, I'm having them replace the hose reel. I think moisture in the wet bay has taken it's toll on the bearings of this unit.

When they do the install be sure the tank drain valve is brass, some models have a plastic/PEX plug that has a tendency to leak. I also made up a 12+" piece of PVC pipe, a 1/2" male connector with pipe threads so I can drain the HWH without getting the floor wet. I leave it in the HWH bay until I need it.

I also went to the hardware store and got a sink strainer, the one with a stainless steel screen only, and bolted it in the air intake hole in the floor. It keeps the critters out, but will allow any liquid that might get loose, to flow out.