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Old 02-25-2021, 03:01 PM   #1
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Water Heater

Does anyone know the model number is for the water heater on a 2003 Alpine?
I need to buy a new anode and electric heating element. My coach is in storage so I can't get the model #.
34FDDS
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Old 02-25-2021, 03:31 PM   #2
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Our 2000 has a Suburban SW10DE.
Anode: Oneness 369 (2 pack)
Element: Suburban 520789 1440watt
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Old 02-25-2021, 05:42 PM   #3
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My '04 also has the Suburban SW10DE water heater. I bought a heater element at ACE Hardware, and it has worked fine for years. You may need a special socket wrench to remove the heating element, IIRC. It is kind of recessed and might be hard to get a normal socket on it. It needs a thin wall socket. ACE had that too.
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Old 02-25-2021, 05:49 PM   #4
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If your water heater is a Suburban then you don't need the model number of the water heater
They all use the same anode rod & electric element

Anode Rod ----Suburban 11563
Element -------Suburban 520900 (replaces the SU520789)


WHY do you need a new element?
Did you check that it is BAD?
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:12 PM   #5
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The heating is not heating up. The circuit breaker is on but no heat.
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Old 02-25-2021, 07:48 PM   #6
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Switch on outside of WH is on?
Water in WH?
Continuity between posts on element?
120v power to element?
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Old 02-25-2021, 08:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine03 View Post
The heating is not heating up. The circuit breaker is on but no heat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
Switch on outside of WH is on?
Water in WH?
Continuity between posts on element?
120v power to element?
Yep, could be several things besides the element. IMO, it is time to troubleshoot rather than just replace parts. Voltmeter is your friend.
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:10 PM   #8
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Is the High Temp T-stat tripped?

Push To Reset Cover above Gas Valve
Left Side is for the 120VAC Circuit---electric
Right Side is for the 12VDC Circuit---gas




120VAC from CB to AC Junction Box (right side of WH Tank looking from the back)
Junction Box to On/Off Switch in outside compartment then to the Set of T-stats then to Element
*Black Wires---120VAC Hot
*White Wire----120VAC Neutral




***UNLESS your Model is a 'DEL'
That model uses 12VDC Relay to trigger the 120VAC to element
Uses a 12VDC Interior ON/OFF switch to energize the DC Relay (DC Junction Box Left Side of WH Tank looking from the back)


Rest of 120VAC Circuit same as above




Voltmeter......cheaper then throwing parts at it
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Old 02-26-2021, 09:22 AM   #9
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Wow, thanks for the diagrams. With those I can diagnose the system. My inside switch has only one switch.( on/off) with light.
Thanks so much.
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Old 02-26-2021, 09:58 AM   #10
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Like my 2003, inside kitchen cabinet switch is for on/off propane mode ONLY! You can run both modes at the same time for rapid heating. I don't mess with the electric switch on the outside--use breaker in bathroom to turn 120v HW on/off. Caution--inspect and verify outside WH door is secured on bottom two pegs and top latch is in good working order and secured. I use a plastic tie to ensure latch stays secure--don't ask me why I do both [smile]. Good catch on the two reset buttons--I forgot them. Both anode rod [annual inspection with tank flush] and 120v electric element are generic and available at different retail sources.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:01 AM   #11
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The rocker switch on the inside only controls gas operation mode.
On the water heater itself you'll find another rocker switch in the lower LH corner. This controls the electric operation, in conjunction with a circuit breaker in the main breaker panel. Often times you'll find that electric rocker switch "stuck". A little lube and some patience will free it up. We leave ours on all the time and control it with the circuit breaker only.
Never turn it on with the tank empty.
You can safely run the water heater in both gas and electric simultaneously. Don't be surprised to find excessive calcium deposits inside the tank when you remove the anode and element. A good flush out thru the anode drain port will get most of it out. Do not make the mistake of trying to flush it with the 110v element removed, as water will pour inside the coach. Yes, I did it. Good luck.

PS, or what OldScout says, we posted nearly the same thing at once....
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:11 AM   #12
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FWIW, our latch on the water heater door broke.
I installed a 10-32 rivnut in its place and secure it with a stainless machine screw and lock/flat washer combo now. Those doors are really very spendy..
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:52 AM   #13
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YUP--the WH doors aren't too expensive but the new paint job is [3 different colors]-- ouch!!!!
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Old 03-02-2021, 08:38 AM   #14
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QUOTE=Old Scout;5651433]anode rod [annual] and tank flush[/QUOTE] Thanks. I know about the sacrificial rods but never changed any. Two for the Alpine in hand for my new annual behavior, thanks.
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