Water Pump/Tank Question

[HamboneTHW]

I think I may have screwed up. So as I continued to go through the coach, I noticed the fresh water tank needed to be sanitized. I drained the nastiness that was in there and hooked the hose up (poured the required bleach into the hose, then hooked it up to the spigot). My wife was watching the TLI. The tank took a draw before it showed full on the TLI. Being my first time with this, I turned the water pump and began to flush the faucets inside. Came back out, draw still pulling water out of the tank. Shut the draw tube valve, turned the pump on, ran more water through house fittings. Opened the draw tube valve and water was still coming. I finally opened the freshwater drain line for 5-10 seconds and the draw stopped.

My question is once I went back inside the coach and turned the water pump on, I flushed all faucets but the pump continued to run. Did I do something wrong? Any idea where to even start looking?

Thanks in advance.

[Brentw]

Not really sure about your system, but on mine if I leave the tank fill valve in fill position, the pump will continue to run as it just recycling from tank suction to tank fill.

[Terry W]

Tommy,

If I leave my valve in the fill tank/shore water position the pump will run continuously, it will shut off when I switch to tank water and it builds pressure.
You might check that valve position first.

Terry

[AKOne]

Tommy, great question. In my case, if I leave the water pump on while filling the water tank, the pump will run continuously. Do not know why. I would like to see a plumping schematic to see how WRV built the system. Typically I just turn the water pump off while filling the tank. Once full, turn the pump on. Maybe someone will have an explanation. Also, to sanitize my water system, I use SpaGuard, a crystalized chlorinating concentrate. A tiny amount does the job with no bleach odor. One bottle will last many years.

[Old-Biscuit]

Typically the 'FILL' line comes off AFTER the 'City Water' connection which is connected to the same COLD water line that Pump discharges into.


So when Pump is ON the water flows thru Cold line to FILL connection which goes to tank........called Round Robin.
Pump sucks from tank and discharges back to tank.



Close Fill Valve can then pressurize the RV Plumbing System

[EngineerMike]

Old Biscuit has it close. On the Alpine the valve choices are Tank Fill & City Water. Move valve to City Water, otherwise you have the pump taking tank water & filling the tank. Its good for aeration, but not necessary.

[HamboneTHW]

Once I move the valve to the correct location, how long should the pump run to pressurize the tank?

Is it possible that I damaged a line somewhere by allowing the tank to overfill?

Thanks!

[Old Scout]

......in an overfill situation, the water tank would more likely be damaged. However, the three-way valve that selects between city and tank fill is very susceptible to damage. I replace the OEM valve with two separate fill spouts and re-plumbed the lines to avoid future issues with OEM switching valve.....

[HamboneTHW]

Originally Posted by Old Scout

......in an overfill situation, the water tank would more likely be damaged. However, the three-way valve that selects between city and tank fill is very susceptible to damage. I replace the OEM valve with two separate fill spouts and re-plumbed the lines to avoid future issues with OEM switching valve.....

You didn't put a tutorial together for that, by chance, did you?

[HamboneTHW]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Once I move the valve to the correct location, how long should the pump run to pressurize the tank?

Is it possible that I damaged a line somewhere by allowing the tank to overfill?

Thanks!

Let me rephrase the question. How long should I let the pump run before I know I have an issue with a leak somewhere?

Thanks in advance.

[RVPioneer]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Once I move the valve to the correct location, how long should the pump run to pressurize the tank?

Is it possible that I damaged a line somewhere by allowing the tank to overfill?

Thanks!

The pump pressurizes the water lines in the coach, not the tank itself. There are 2 overflow lines on the tank, one at the front near the propane tank and one at the rear near the wet bay. If you overfill the tank, water will flow out of one or both of these lines. This will start a syphoning process that will remove 15-20 gallons from the tank before it stops. Unless the overflow lines are plugged up there should be little chance of damaging the tank or lines from overfilling.


My coach was either not built with the recirculating water pump feature or a previous owner made modifications to eliminate it. I have heard an explanation as to why a coach would be built that way but it made absolutely no sense and was therefore unable to be stored in memory.


I think once you gain access to the plumbing behind the wet bay panel the modification mentioned by Old Scout will be readily apparent. Also, if the City Water/Tank Fill valve fails, it can be repaired by replacing the guts with new from an identical valve, rather than replacing the entire valve. Flair-it part#16910.

[AKOne]

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Let me rephrase the question. How long should I let the pump run before I know I have an issue with a leak somewhere?

Tommy, if I am understanding your question, the water pump should only run for a moment to pressurize the system once you are done filling the tank. And, the valve is switch from "Tank Fill" to "City Water" position and the water source (spigot) is turned off. Typically turning the pump off anytime you are hooked to a city/well water source avoids confusion. The pump being "on" when filling the water tank is not necessary. In other words:

1. Pump off
2. Connect water source
3. Switch valve in wet bay from "City Water" to "Tank Fill" position
4. Fill the tank
5. Switch valve from "Tank Fill" back to "City Water" position
6. Disconnect water source
7. Turn pump on -- system should pressurize in seconds.

I hope that makes sense.

As a side note, I quipped my coach with a pressure tank similar to a residential setup with a well as a water source. While boondocking, my water pump runs for a minute or two then shuts off. This setup gives me very even pressure at the kitchen sink and showerhead and much less pump noise. My pump should also last longer since it is not doing the rapid "on" then "off" cycling. Highly recommended mod.

[HamboneTHW]

So Houston, I think I have a problem. When I turn the pump on with the valve in the "City Water" position, the pump is continuing to run. Where should I start looking for leaks. The bay isn't showing any signs of leaks in the bay or under the RV, and I'm not seeing issues inside the coach.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

[Old Scout]

Tommy--need to focus on the last few posts--think we have concluded that the city water/tank fill selector valve has probably failed and water pump is recirculating back to fresh water tank....