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Old 12-12-2020, 12:49 PM   #1
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Window Valance

All,

I want to remove the window valence in the bathroom/toilet room. I've looked at it from all angles and checked behind it as best I could with a mirror. I can't find any screws or any other form of attachment.

We would like to update the fabric and change the way it's covered.

Has anybody removed theirs in one piece??

Thanks, Terry
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Old 12-12-2020, 07:24 PM   #2
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I did. It caused a bit of damage to the “wall paper” which was hidden by the new valance. We went with maple to match the cabinets.

There were no screws, just adhesive.

If I recall, it was brute force and awkwardness, as EngineerMike would say.
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Old 12-12-2020, 08:22 PM   #3
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I removed mine, but not in one piece!! As the above poster suggested, the upholstered valance is brad nailed to a wood block that is glued to the wallpaper. (And glued very well I might add.) But I have to admit that I wasn't trying to remove it in one piece, just remove it BSM (by some means) with minimal damage that could be covered by the replacement.

I put in a USB rechargeable electric roller shade, with a remote control, in a maple valance to somewhat match the bathroom cabinet. My new valence goes all the way to the ceiling.
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Old 12-13-2020, 10:45 AM   #4
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^^^That could be how it went down. The upholstered part came off first, then the glued on piece of wood. Minimal wall paper damage could be achieved by cutting with a knife around the edges of the wood before prying the block off the wall. Care should also be taken, such as a pad of wood, so as to not punch a hole through the wall with a pry bar.

I did not punch a hole through the wall.
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Old 12-13-2020, 06:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVPioneer View Post
^^^That could be how it went down. The upholstered part came off first, then the glued on piece of wood. Minimal wall paper damage could be achieved by cutting with a knife around the edges of the wood before prying the block off the wall. Care should also be taken, such as a pad of wood, so as to not punch a hole through the wall with a pry bar.

I did not punch a hole through the wall.

I agree, that would be the way to do it. And I didn't punch a hole in the wall either! Just tore up more wallpaper than I would have if I had known about the glue. But it all worked out fine.
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Old 12-14-2020, 07:54 AM   #6
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Most of ours was removed by RV Fog Dr when they fixed our windows. We told them not to put it back up. Then we removed the last of the nailed on cleat and replaced it with a small piece of mahogany trim. It matches the trim we added just above the toilet. Both trim pieces were necessary to hide holes and where the wall behind toilet is two separate pieces (I don’t know what was there before, a small shelf maybe?). You don’t need any window covering in the bathroom with that distorted glass
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Old 12-14-2020, 08:39 AM   #7
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I got mine off in one piece. Sounds about like everybody else, wallpaper damage!!

I managed to pry the front panel away from the mounting cleat all intact. When I removed the screws from the cleat the adhesive pulled the wallpaper off where it seeped out of the joint. I tried sawing with string and a putty knife, no dice.

All would have been fine if they hadn't used a quart of adhesive between the two halves of the mounting cleat.

Just one of the, what was WRV thinking, moments.

Coulda been worse!!

Wife will recover to match the living room valences.
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Old 12-14-2020, 06:04 PM   #8
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I finally gave up trying to remove ours, the last gaudy valance on the coach. DW gave it a go also, no dice without causing serious damage to the wall. When she asked me where my big pry bar was we promptly shifted to plan B. She got out her acrylic paint set and gave it a dazzling new paint job right over the 1970'ish grandmas groovy couch material. Looks great, but how much time do you really spend in there looking at it?
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:08 AM   #9
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Window valance

We replaced all the valances this summer. We replaced the with simple wood ones. In the bathroom, the window had leaked (actually the window was installed incorrectly with the weep holes on the side). This resulted in the plywood delaminating. To fix it, I overlaid the exterior wall with new 1/8” plywood and then wallpapered the room with new vinyl wallpaper. Then installed a new valance. I screwed a 3/4 x 3/4 cleat on The wall and hungry the valance on it.

The wallpapering turned into a challenge. It took several tries to finally find a method that worked. If anyone wants to try it, I’ll be glad to share my experiences.
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:52 AM   #10
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Good Morning, I'm Alpine Bob. Have a 1999 Alpine same colors as yours.
I have a blind I need to replace in the bedroom. Not sure how to remove it.
I'll play with it this spring. just covered it for the winter. We live in Reno,NV.
Have a question on batterys, what do you do for winter with your batterys?
I just removed them, brought them home and going to put them on a trickle
charger.
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine Bob View Post
Good Morning, I'm Alpine Bob. Have a 1999 Alpine same colors as yours.
I have a blind I need to replace in the bedroom. Not sure how to remove it.
I'll play with it this spring. just covered it for the winter. We live in Reno,NV.
Have a question on batterys, what do you do for winter with your batterys?
I just removed them, brought them home and going to put them on a trickle
charger.
Good morning Bob, and welcome to the best Alpine owners site anywhere!

To remove the blind from the bedroom you'll need to first remove the valance from the wall. Not a huge job, simply remove the screws from the 90 degree plastic brackets inside the valance.
Once the valance is off you can now remove the blind.

If you are storing the coach without available shore power you have a few options.
1. Remove the batteries for trickle charging as you did.
2. Leave the batteries in place and disconnect all ground connections from house and chassis batteries.
3. Leave batteries connected but turn off the battery disconnect switches. One in stairwell and one in the filter bay. Once a month turn the switches on and run the generator for a couple hours under load. A small 1500w space heater works well. Make sure your inverter is set to charge mode.

Others will probably give better advice. Fortunately ours always rests on shore power.
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Old 12-15-2020, 11:25 AM   #12
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Ditto on #3 above. We lived in the Denver area where we stored the coach out in Elizabeth, CO. Did exactly what Alpine36 described in #3 but keep in mind that you’re solar charging needs to be functional so the the batteries are “active” for much of the day. Even if they’re covered with snow they should be ok for several days until the sun returns. I always turned off the 2 - shut-off switches as previously mentioned. Running the heat pumps (if not too cold) or using portable heaters are good ideas for loading the generator (higher speed). I always made sure the charger reached “Float” status for atleast 10 - minutes. We had temps hit -5 degrees several winters and never had a problem with batteries.

P.S. I always winterized the coach by blowing out the water system with a Porter Cable compressor.
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Old 12-16-2020, 08:59 AM   #13
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Thank you. I finally pulled the batteries and took them home. But I tried to start the generator before I covered the coach but couldn't get the generator to start. I had the coach running at that time, thinking the batteries would be up enough to start the generator. It didn't happen. So I have the batteries on a trickle charger.
I do have another issue if anyone has had problems. I can't get either interior
generator switches to work, so I have to extend the front to start it. I bought a
new switch that is located in the upper cabinet by the refrig. That didn't do anything either. So I'm confused.
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Old 12-16-2020, 10:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine Bob View Post
Thank you. I finally pulled the batteries and took them home. But I tried to start the generator before I covered the coach but couldn't get the generator to start. I had the coach running at that time, thinking the batteries would be up enough to start the generator. It didn't happen. So I have the batteries on a trickle charger.
I do have another issue if anyone has had problems. I can't get either interior
generator switches to work, so I have to extend the front to start it. I bought a
new switch that is located in the upper cabinet by the refrig. That didn't do anything either. So I'm confused.
It may be to your benefit to start a new thread to address your generator issues, rather than tag on to this thread about a window valance. Also, try searching the forum for threads that deal with generators.

For starters, the generator will not start if the fuel tank level is below ~1/4 full.
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