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Rook · 02-28-2014, 06:33 PM

Not sure what you mean by "no heat". Does the fan motor run when the thermostat demands heat? If not, then do you have 12vdc to one side of the the circuit breaker? Rook

K. Vickery · 03-01-2014, 12:52 PM

Yeah, the fan works great. Real nice and quiet. But I don't hear the air flow switch click and no popping from the ignitor. We're having only cloudy weather today so I'll be out there checking stuff out again. I had a circus trying to determine the part number for the motor control board. Any ideas? K.

Rook · 03-01-2014, 01:48 PM

OK, that's good progress. Now you have to determine if 3 more components are good or bad....1) the sail sw, 2) the excessive heat sensor sw, 3) the control board. Check the terminal on the control board where the wire from the sensor sw is connected, with the fan running, for 12 volts present. If you have 12 VDC there, then the control board is likely bad. If no 12 volts, then the sail sw or the sensor sw is bad. If you are getting a high voltage pop, but no ignition, then possibility the valve solenoid is bad. Here is a helpful down load. Rook

hflamefurn04.pdf

Theberrys · 03-01-2014, 03:44 PM

There are two types of universal igniter boards for Atwood Furnaces. Here is a link to both. Check which one you need before buying.
If you have two furnaces you can swap igniter boarde to see if that's what is wrong.

Dinosaur Electronics UIB S Universal Ignitor Board Small w/Spade Connection Camper Trailer RV

Dinosaur Electronics UIB L Universal Ignitor Board Large w/Spade Connection Camper Trailer RV

Dick

Rook · 03-02-2014, 03:38 PM

Vickery, when you can, post your progress. Rook

Rook · 03-03-2014, 02:15 PM

Vickery...Dick Berry's post above points to Dinosaur Igniter Boards.....I just want to add that I think they are quality boards and that's a good price. I have one in my water heater for over a year and it's reliable. Rook

K. Vickery · 03-03-2014, 04:33 PM

Rook et al, Again my thanks for the aid and assistance. Up-date: My wife is up in Canada trying to beat the snow to get back. I have a fully operational fan and have static checked the 10Amp circuit breaker, the relay, and on/off switch, all three on the outside of the fan shroud. I also static checked the fan air switch. They all tested good. To me, this leaves the burner assembly and the board. I hope my problem isn't the burner assy as I don't really want to pull the unit out to get to it. The board is laying next to me on the table. Is there anyway I can isolate t6he burner assy to check its operational ability with out removing it?

K. Vickery · 03-03-2014, 04:38 PM

I have one Atwood (actually I only have one furnace total) furnace. The references for large and small boards show the same picture. How do you tell the difference?

Rook · 03-03-2014, 06:00 PM

1) Do you have a multimeter that will measure 12VDC? If yes, do you know how to use it? You can save a lot of "guessing" by using it..... or getting someone else that knows how to use it.

2) With the fan running, pull the plug off the control board and connect the Multimeter from the plug white wire plug to ground....you should have 12 volts.....if not, then the sail switch or the Heat Limit Sensor Switch is bad. If you have 12 volts, then the Control board is likely bad. If you get a "pop" signifying the igniter is working, then your Valve Solenoid may be bad....but it also could be a bad Board.

3) Removing the burner Assy does not require removing the furnace.....it can be removed from the front easily.

4) The two Dinosaur Igniter Boards are the same but different physical sizes.....check the specification. Measure your old board and get the one that is the same size. Rook