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08-17-2018, 08:54 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 10
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Thank you for the inspiration lol.. here are a few more pics after some pressure washing lol
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08-17-2018, 09:25 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 7,114
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Well, It looks like it cleaned up nice...
I'd go through and look at all the mechanicals; grease, brakes, filters, fluids, tires, etc.. I start out looking at everything carefully and not spend any money on anything until I'm reasonably confident I won't run into any bank breaking expenses.. i.e. If I run into something big, i.e. blown engine / tranny, etc, I can still walk away from it.
If you can DIY, plan on spending a few hundred dollars on filters, fluids, belt, brakes.. If it looks like a keeper, it probably needs tires, plan on about $1500 for good tires.
If it was ever under water over 2 ft deep, I would open the rear end and take a peek.. If you do this, catch the fluid as its expensive. If everything is OK, re-use the old fluid. ( Water can get into the rear end via the vent tube)
I have an F53 checklist on my site that I use to check the chassis portion. This could give you some ideas on what to look at..
F53 inspection maintenance checklist – 1999 Southwind 35S
Find the source of the leaks and evaluate the damage.. From the photos, it didn't look to bad..
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08-17-2018, 12:23 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21
Well, It looks like it cleaned up nice...
I'd go through and look at all the mechanicals; grease, brakes, filters, fluids, tires, etc.. I start out looking at everything carefully and not spend any money on anything until I'm reasonably confident I won't run into any bank breaking expenses.. i.e. If I run into something big, i.e. blown engine / tranny, etc, I can still walk away from it.
If you can DIY, plan on spending a few hundred dollars on filters, fluids, belt, brakes.. If it looks like a keeper, it probably needs tires, plan on about $1500 for good tires.
If it was ever under water over 2 ft deep, I would open the rear end and take a peek.. If you do this, catch the fluid as its expensive. If everything is OK, re-use the old fluid. ( Water can get into the rear end via the vent tube)
I have an F53 checklist on my site that I use to check the chassis portion. This could give you some ideas on what to look at..
F53 inspection maintenance checklist – 1999 Southwind 35S
Find the source of the leaks and evaluate the damage.. From the photos, it didn't look to bad..
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Thank you.. I drove this rig from columbia ga to north Alabama.. I got 79 miles from home before it stopped running. Drive line has 12k on it. Been sitting since 07, where it was parked it just got rained on and started leaking at the caps. My g/f ex just ignored it and moved to Washington state. Didn't know it wa this bad untill we went and seen it after the bank was calling her.
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08-17-2018, 06:48 PM
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#18
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 69
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Probably fuel filters and old gasoline. That's the first thing I'd check... And the cheapest.
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08-18-2018, 05:05 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 665
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Bank run don’t walk! It looks like more then just the caps are leaking. And water damage over time is black mold not something you can easily get read of. Lots of other issue A/C Roof and dash! What ever you do good luck [emoji106]
__________________
Larry and Sheila 2008 Fleetwood Discovery 39R
Retired U.S. Air Force (SAC) Vietnam Veteran
2022 RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI
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08-18-2018, 05:36 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Chilliwack, BC Canada
Posts: 526
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I guess I'll be the one standout here. I have no idea what you paid (if anything), but I think this was not a bad acquisition. I'd be all over it. As long as you're reasonably handy, you can make this work for you. I love these kinds of "pet projects", especially if the bones are reasonably good. Leaks? Pfffft...they all leak at some point. My only regret was a camper I got for free. Once I had it apart, I realized it was unsalvageable (due to the design). A Moho is different though and has more structure to make it work. It looks like your leak at the front can be easily repaired. I bought a boat once that needed new spars and floor due to rot. A Winter of no-rush DIY and I had a beautiful boat which we used for 9 years. I sold it at a profit. Everyone thought I was crazy.
__________________
Chris
1998 Beaver Patriot Monticello - 330 HP Cat "Ruby"
TOAD: 2017 Ford SHO "Luna" 365 hp
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08-18-2018, 06:04 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 27
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MOULD!!!!! Have to remove all headliner and inspect....do not want to breathe the air inside there
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08-18-2018, 06:22 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Chilliwack, BC Canada
Posts: 526
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"Mold" Another scam fuelled by abatement companies that make a fortune on unfounded fears. When I see mold, I clean it. Done.
Geez...I'm becoming more and more like my Dad every day. lol
__________________
Chris
1998 Beaver Patriot Monticello - 330 HP Cat "Ruby"
TOAD: 2017 Ford SHO "Luna" 365 hp
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08-23-2018, 11:27 AM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 10
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Lol.. thanks for all the input.. it will be a long slow process.. know nothing about a rv. I have been a auto mechanic for about 25 years or so. gotta start at top for water leak. I already know that both caps front and back are leaking,just gotta figure out how to get all those cabinets over cab out and replace. next question is what kind of roof do these have?
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08-23-2018, 11:30 AM
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#24
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Registered User
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 809
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Looks like a money pit
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08-23-2018, 01:16 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: midwest
Posts: 962
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It’s a rubber roof. Find someone to spray one of those rhino roofs on it. As a mechanic, you got this. Btw, what did you do to your get it home? Interior, strip it all, take it all apart, clean it, salvage whatever you can and put it back with the basics. Then get a couple movie recliners and a flat screen tv.
Basics for camping:
Reliable drivetrain
Comfy living area
Good refrigerator
Kitchen sink
A few cabinets
Working bathroom
Comfy bed
Working ac
Smells good
Do these and have fun!
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Flair 26e gas Crossover
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08-23-2018, 01:38 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 285
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My 2006 Sea Breeze has a fiberglass roof and I think yours does, too. I've read that these models sometimes leak where the front and rear caps butt up to the fiberglass roof and that the fix is to seal the joint with Eternabond tape and Dicor caulk. A lot will depend on how extensive the water damage is between the ceiling and the roof and if it got into the sidewalls. My rv has the tape over those joints, something National started doing around 2005-6 and so far, has never leaked. Keep us updated on your progress and good luck with your project.
__________________
Steve & Cheryl Walsh
2006 National Sea Breeze 1350
Orange Park, FL
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08-23-2018, 01:51 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 546
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Concur a 2005 Sea Breeze is fiberglass roof. Check also all areas where things are mounted, tv antenna etc.
__________________
GySgt USMC (Ret) '79~'99
2005 National RV Dolphin Limited 5342
Workhorse W-22
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08-23-2018, 02:15 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Madison, AL
Posts: 307
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mtnman9457 - Where are you at in North Alabama. I'm in Madison, had a similar problem with my National Tradewinds RV. I fixed our roof before i drive it to Alabama from Houston. IM me, maybe i can help.
Rob
__________________
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2003 National Tradewinds 375 LE
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