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Old 11-15-2020, 10:43 AM   #1
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Back in the Dolphin with more questions...

I'm back in my 2004 National RV 6432 Dolphin (34' Workhorse W22 chassis - Sterling edition) for a couple weeks. As I start off - I have a bunch of questions that (I think?) are relatively simple...

1) Filling fresh water until it's full
- I read somewhere that I just hook up the water and let it fill until the 'overflow' vents spurt. That's what I did and got a big lot of water squirting out the at the back by the bumper - center of vehicle. Did I do that right? My tank is full.
- when I stopped for fuel (twice so far) there is still water leaking/dripping back there - I figure it's because the tank is full and still sloshing around
- my water lines seem to have more air in them so far. The pump is pumping and holding pressure - but I'm getting air spurts (it's been 2 nights so far - but we're being VERY conservative on our water since we don't have a water source for 5 days so maybe it's just a matter of time? I'm thinking it is - but I ask you more experienced RV'ers)

2) Inverter
- I have a big 2000W Xantrex inverter with 4 brand new Sam's Club Eveready batteries and 3 large solar panels (guessing 100W each or so) on the roof. I've bench tested the controller and I know it's working... no problem with the batteries.
- I have a plastic switch in the back of the cabinet right by the doorway entrance - below the switch panel (switches in panel include step/disconnect/etc). It says inverter - but it doesn't seem to matter where I switch it - I get no output on the outlets or even the TV.
- in the 'control' panel area above the breakers - I have a black, square 'Xantrex' panel which has an inverter switch - THAT turns on the outlets. Everything I read says that the inverter only powers the front TV. But it seems like my entire coach - all outlets - are wired. In fact the first time I used the switch - my A/C turned on, The fridge does NOT appear to switch to electricity when I run the inverter. Did someone rewire my coach? What is that plastic switch near the door for?

3) Switch in the power storage (rear box - driver's side)
- I read that I need to 'switch' that switch if I use a 30A to 50A adapter. I'm GUESSING that I need to hit that switch if I use a 20A to 50A adapter as well.
- where I store the coach - I have a 15A GCI outlet available that I can use to power my coach (I want to start my fridge a couple days before I travel). But it kicks the GFI as soon as I plug it in - is that the switch (I have never changed it)

4) Dashboard displaying 'Change Engine Oil'
- when I picked up the coach - the digital display in the dash was unreadable. Research revealed this as a common problem so I shipped the dash to this place in Washington State (can't remember their name right now) and it came back all fixed with a new (very cool) LCD display.
- I changed the oil for the second time recently - and right after this last change - this message appeared on the dash. It didn't appear after the FIRST change I did - 3000 miles earlier.
- the message went away for awhile - and now it has reappeared suddenly after driving about 600-700 miles and won't go away.
- do I have to use an ODB reader to reset the dash?

5) Where is the ABS controller?
- on my last trip I encountered what I initially interpreted as transmission slip. I stopped and had a shop familiar with the Allison transmissions check it out - there were no ODB codes and the transmission fluid did not appear burned or low. The reassured me I should be okay and the problem disappeared.
- research in this wonderful site revealed that it was PROBABLY associated with the ABS controller falsely issuing a wheel lockup command to the transmission which responded by releasing the lock up torque converter. My ABS light had previously (on that trip) suddenly appeared in a severe rainstorm during that trip - so I thought "that makes sense - I need to check and clean my ABS sensor connections".
- I didn't do that (clean the connectors) and this trip - totally dry (going to Arizona) - the ABS light has not come on so I did not expect the transmission problem. BUT!! suddenly at the end of the day yesterday - this 'slipping' experience started with no ABS alert light displayed. It only happened briefly and then stopped.
- I want to find the ABS controller and spray some good electrical connection cleaner into them to ensure there are no intermittent connections. If necessary - I may have to change out the ABS controller if cleaning connections doesn't 'fix' the problem.

I have more questions of course - but that's enough for now... I need to go get some fresh air!!

Thanks everyone - someday, I MAY actually understand this rig completely.

Arden
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Old 11-15-2020, 02:01 PM   #2
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# 1 yes you did it correctly , Not sure about the air in the lines , that should cleanup after a few minutes of running the water . You may have a slightly loose connection at the pump inlet ?
# 2 .The switch by the door may have been replaced with the panel by the breakers , does it also indicate battery level ? If so it is the Xantrex basic control panel and would be A add on . I did the same thing in our 05 Dolphin but the original inverter switch was at the breaker location not by the door . As far as being rewired , maybe my 2005 inverter only powers the front receptacles for the TV and half of the receptacle in the fridge compartment . Check your should be the same way , top plug in not on the inverter bottom plug in is on the inverter , if two Romeo cables are going to the fridge receptacle one should be from the inverter .
#3 The 30A 50A switch in the rear storage compartment is really only for being in a campground that only has 30A service , it disables one of the compressors on your basement heat pump so as not to trip the breaker on the camp ground pedestal . The basement heat pump has two compressors it runs on one if it can keep up with the demand for heating or cooling and brings the second compressor one line if it can't.
# 4 to reset the oil change light turn the ignition switch to the on position, do not start the engine , press the accelerator peddle to the floor and release three times with in five seconds . turn the switch off and back on.
# 5 I have no idea were the ABS model is located but if you follow the brake lines coming from the master cylinder it should lead you to it .
Hope this has helped a little .
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Old 11-15-2020, 03:51 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick response Ray - appreciate the information...

Sadly - my 'basement' heat pump got replaced when I bought the unit. Long story - but ultimately the place I bought it from a place that had a mechanic that didn't know the difference between left and right-handed wrenches (meaning - there is no such thing... and he didn't know). The A/C wasn't cooling to my satisfaction - so he 'replaced' it. Since I had no idea it was a heat pump - I had no idea what I 'lost'. The replacement didn't cool enough either - so he moved it to the roof over the main cabin - so now I'm like everyone else with 2 roof-mounted A/Cs and an empty compartment down below (and yes - I blocked off the venting to the lower unit so that I don't provide 'critter homes').

That means the switch in the back is of no value (or connection). Makes me wonder why when I plug my 15A to 50A adapter I immediately pop the GFI on the box. I have multiple GFI plugs in the coach which NEVER trip.

One last question for you... do you REALLY tow the 2006 Tacoma behind your rig? all 5000+ lbs of it? I'm considering a 4 wheeled toad... I usually pull my Goldwing - but sometimes... it would be nice to ride 'inside'... especially as I get old(er).

Arde
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Old 11-15-2020, 05:16 PM   #4
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Have towed it over 8,000 miles . But mine does not weigh 5,000lb. its a 4X4 access cab , so its more around 4500lb or a little under . When looking for a toad make sure its flat towable , I had to install a new drive shaft with a disconnect at the rear diff. even though it is a manual transmission . Its a 2006 and after 2005 Tacoma manual transmissions can't be flat towed .
Some time one GFI plugged into another unrelated GFI plug don't play well together .
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Old 11-15-2020, 07:36 PM   #5
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ON point 2, the standard model Dolphins came with a 1000 watt inverter which did only power the front TV/entertainment plugs, rear TV and the power plug next to the passenger seat arm rest. There was only one switch for the inverter on the hallway main panel, so the one by the door maybe was added by a previous owner. I added another inverter myself for another counter plug and put the on/off switch by the door. I'm not sure what other plugs would be powered by models with the 2000 watt inverter but I would surprised if it could run everything else in the RV. (microwave 1200watt, counter plug for say a coffee maker 1500 watts, water heater element 1500 watts, or the original AC/heat pump the could use 3000 watts.
When I first got my 05 Dolphin years ago it tripped the campgrounds 50 amp breaker if it was GFI equipped, other campgrounds with non GFI breakers were no problem.
In my case it was an easy fix. Inside the RV's AC breaker box I found one of the bare copper ground wires was routed in a way it touched a white neutral terminal. I bent the bare copper wire over a bit so it didn't make contact with the neutral. This wouldn't show as a problem other than when plugging into a GFI supply. It all looks OK in the breaker box, then in some other outlet there may be a ground wire touching the white neutral connection, visually do a check.
Most all GM's showing " Change Engine Oil" are reset after changing oil as described earlier, though some say press accelerator petal 5 times. Sorry, but no help with the other issues.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:57 PM   #6
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#1 - I always shut off before the tank is completely full, so I can't really comment on the water vent issue.

#2 - My 2004 came with a 600W inverter and it only powers the front TV receptacle.

#3 - When I connect to a GFI outlet at home it always blows too, so I have to connect to an outlet that is not on a GFI circuit.

I don't know the answers to your other questions. Shame about your heat pump being removed though. They don't work worth a darn on 30A but on 50A mine works great. I wonder if the mechanic just had the rear bay switch in the 30A position when he was testing it?
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:34 PM   #7
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CamJam1.... I'm a new Dolphin owner. I haven't looked closely, but where is this 30A/50A switch at in rear compartment.... drivers side or near the heat pump on passenger side?? Thanks in advance
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Old 11-30-2020, 09:52 PM   #8
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Not the same coach but the same problem with filling water tank. I f I fill 'til water runs out the overflow, it will spill a lot of water, then mostly stop but driving appears to create a vacuum and continues to empty the tank. I even had the line moved to try to stop it from draining but it still does it. I am planning on putting a shutoff valve on that overflow line and close it after filling the tank (I have a tank filler tube also so no danger of overfilling the tank if I forget it is closed). If I don't fill to overflow, then I don't have a problem with leakage.
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Old 11-30-2020, 11:40 PM   #9
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preach2u, the 30A/50A switch is located in the back of the rear basement compartment on the drivers side. It may not be labeled or even show the 30A or 50A position, 50 A is up, 30A down.
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