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10-04-2017, 11:17 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 112
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Battery Charging Issue
I have been having this issue for some time.
1. I replaced old batteries
2. Replaced 200 amp fuse
3. Battery monitor shows 6.3 volts
4. inverter monitor indicates 10.8
5 Chassis battery indicates 10.8
6. Solar charger indicates 9.4
7. Batteries hooked up in series
There are two cables attached to the right upper neg. post, a green tapped ground and a black (also poss ground). If I disconnect the black cable I loose connection with the remote invertor monitor. It seems that the solar panel is the thing charging the batteries.
any thoughts? some of you have been most helpfull.
__________________
2008 Sea Breeze, Workhorse W24 Chassis, 8.1L Chev. Allision Trans.
Full Time Volunteers since 2013
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10-04-2017, 11:56 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 13,138
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Have you checked the batteries with a voltmeter?
I think I'd start by disconnecting all wires and measure the voltage of each battery to establish a known good starting position.
Then add wires one at a time to see what effect they have.
__________________
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
Criticism is easier than Craftsmanship
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10-04-2017, 12:01 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fulltime, USA
Posts: 16,706
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Looks like good 6V but need 12V.
Did you change from 12 to 6?
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10-04-2017, 12:10 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,411
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When you blew the 200 amp fuse, you probable also blew the converter/charger fuses. They only blow when the cables are connected wrong.
Look for the converter/charger and find the fuses.
One other thing to check is the battery disconnect. It needs to be on, or connected for the converter to send the charge to the batteries.
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10-04-2017, 12:14 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budhorning
I have been having this issue for some time.
1. I replaced old batteries
2. Replaced 200 amp fuse
3. Battery monitor shows 6.3 volts
4. inverter monitor indicates 10.8
5 Chassis battery indicates 10.8
6. Solar charger indicates 9.4
7. Batteries hooked up in series
Attachment 178818
There are two cables attached to the right upper neg. post, a green tapped ground and a black (also poss ground). If I disconnect the black cable I loose connection with the remote invertor monitor. It seems that the solar panel is the thing charging the batteries.
any thoughts? some of you have been most helpfull.
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Hard to tell from your photo, but I think your connection is wrong. See attached diagram for two 6V batteries in series to obtain 12V.
__________________
2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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10-04-2017, 12:22 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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The black cable on the - terminal probably is not ground. I could be wrong about that. If it is ground then the other wire is probably not ground. You need to figure that out first.
You can check what wire is ground with your DMM on a low resistance range. Measure to the frame. Connect only that one to the - terminal.
Disconnect everything on the + terminal. Tape the ends.
Plug in the unit. Check the voltage to ground with your DMM at the + terminal and the source side of each protection. That is the left end. One of the protection devices should have 12 VDC on it. If not you need to find the storage relay. Find it and see if there is 12 VDC to ground on one side. If there is your converter is working but you need to toggle the relay. That takes 12 VDC at the battery. Connect the solar and let it charge them up or get an external charger. If there is no 12 VDC you have blown the fuse in the Converter or blown the Converter.
While waiting for the batteries to charge figure out what wire goes to the Converter. If you cannot visually trace it use your ohmeter. As long as the other end is not connected you will not damage the DMM.
If you cannot do this much then hire somebody. These are about as basic as it gets. You need to get the Converter working to get the batteries to charge from shore power. Once that is done the rest is a matter of tracing wires.
There should be 5 wires on the + terminal:
1. Converter/house panel
2. Inverter
3. Generator
4. Charge line from the engine alternator
5. Solar controller
1 & 5 are hot.
2&3 are a load
4 is hot if the engine is running. If you left that connected to ground and started the engine you will probably blow the alternator fuse and/or the alternator and/or any isolation device. That is probably the extra wire you have connected to the - terminal.
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10-04-2017, 12:27 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 112
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It's connected right. Just a different position
__________________
2008 Sea Breeze, Workhorse W24 Chassis, 8.1L Chev. Allision Trans.
Full Time Volunteers since 2013
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10-04-2017, 12:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,807
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You may have replaced the 200 A fuse but you also have 2 high current DC breakers there. Have you reset them?
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10-04-2017, 12:40 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budhorning
It's connected right. Just a different position
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Looking at your photo, the battery on the right is not in series with the one one the left. Hence you only see 6V on your monitor.
The large jumper cable in the foreground should go from the Neg post on one battery to the Pos post on the other.
Leaving you with one neg and one post post that will read 12Volts.
The green ground cable should go to the Neg post on one battery and the other red cables connected to the Pos post.
__________________
2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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10-04-2017, 12:45 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45
Looking at your photo, the battery on the right is not in series with the one one the left. Hence you only see 6V on your monitor.
The large jumper cable in the foreground should go from the Neg post on one battery to the Pos post on the other.
Leaving you with one neg and one post post that will read 12Volts.
The green ground cable should go to the Neg post on one battery and the other red cables connected to the Pos post.
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Looking at his photo closely you will see the right battery is 180 degrees out of orientation with the left battery. They are wired in series.
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10-04-2017, 12:48 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfryman
Looking at his photo closely you will see the right battery is 180 degrees out of orientation with the left battery. They are wired in series.
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Ya, I see that now.
__________________
2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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10-04-2017, 01:01 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothermark
The black cable on the - terminal probably is not ground. I could be wrong about that. If it is ground then the other wire is probably not ground. You need to figure that out first.
You can check what wire is ground with your DMM on a low resistance range. Measure to the frame. Connect only that one to the - terminal.
Disconnect everything on the + terminal. Tape the ends.
Plug in the unit. Check the voltage to ground with your DMM at the + terminal and the source side of each protection. That is the left end. One of the protection devices should have 12 VDC on it. If not you need to find the storage relay. Find it and see if there is 12 VDC to ground on one side. If there is your converter is working but you need to toggle the relay. That takes 12 VDC at the battery. Connect the solar and let it charge them up or get an external charger. If there is no 12 VDC you have blown the fuse in the Converter or blown the Converter.
While waiting for the batteries to charge figure out what wire goes to the Converter. If you cannot visually trace it use your ohmeter. As long as the other end is not connected you will not damage the DMM.
If you cannot do this much then hire somebody. These are about as basic as it gets. You need to get the Converter working to get the batteries to charge from shore power. Once that is done the rest is a matter of tracing wires.
There should be 5 wires on the + terminal:
1. Converter/house panel
2. Inverter
3. Generator
4. Charge line from the engine alternator
5. Solar controller
1 & 5 are hot.
2&3 are a load
4 is hot if the engine is running. If you left that connected to ground and started the engine you will probably blow the alternator fuse and/or the alternator and/or any isolation device. That is probably the extra wire you have connected to the - terminal.
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Don't know if i did it right. Batts. are low 1105 but are charging
If I disconnect the black from the neg. I loose 12v. and the Chassis voltage
I reconnected the black. Every thing is readin 10.8 and the lights are back on.
Still charging slowly
Checked the left side of the breakers all now read 11.6
__________________
2008 Sea Breeze, Workhorse W24 Chassis, 8.1L Chev. Allision Trans.
Full Time Volunteers since 2013
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10-04-2017, 02:20 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,411
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You keep saying that the batteries are charging. You may be getting a tiny boost from the solar but that's not charging.
Batteries sit at 12.6 volts when fully charged. Yours are below that.
To charge a battery you have to force more then 12.6 volts into it, for it to start charging.
If you don't read 13 volts or more, with your meter, at the battery terminals, there is no charging happening.
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10-04-2017, 02:36 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
You keep saying that the batteries are charging. You may be getting a tiny boost from the solar but that's not charging.
Batteries sit at 12.6 volts when fully charged. Yours are below that.
To charge a battery you have to force more then 12.6 volts into it, for it to start charging.
If you don't read 13 volts or more, with your meter, at the battery terminals, there is no charging happening.
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Not true, as long as the CHARGER's voltage is higher than the BATTERY's voltage, current will flow from the source (charger) to the load (battery) raising the state of charge of the battery.
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