Battery disconnected still drains....

[trode]

I will get back to the MH next week for some maintenance and will report status then, this weekend is boat maintenance issues and, no kidding, having battery issues there too, I think bad charger. Will take my meter with me and check voltages. Some ideas that came up here will be helpful, I have changed my co detector to battery operated, the prior owner had dis-abled it since he found that to be one source of drain (did same on my boat, they will drain the battery in a week or two).

I will let you know what I find - boat may be good testing ground for tracking issues, problem there is similar, have master battery switch and nothing runs off battery directly except bilge pumps on float switches, boat in covered dry dock so they do not run, only other thing hooked up to batteries is charger, Guest customer service says that the charger can't drain the batteries so, again, not sure what is doing it there either!

I have a funny effect on electronics too!!

Also, battery companies love me - regular customer!

[btuxhorn]

My step works off either the house batteries or the chassis battery. I use knife disconnects on both and if only one is opened, the other will operate the steps. I was told that feature was added as a safety procedure to prevent the steps from not extending if one of the systems failed.

[Possum]

Our steps work off the chassis battery and once I installed Princess Auto I have to use the MOM switch (when power is off) on the dash to have the steps go up or down with the door. I installed the keyed unit into the positive side of my chassis battery and all long term storage failure issues seem to have disappeared. I hooked mine between the battery positive and the motor leads terminal in the stairwell of my Adventurer. I believe either works as advertised.

[tropical36]

Originally Posted by trode

Perhaps I need some advice on how the house and chassis batteries interact. I have my motorhome in storage without power, I put a "knife blade" disconnect on the chassis battery to keep it from being run down by parasitic devices. The disconnect is on the negative post (only place it fits) and still the batter is able to run down with the switch open. How can that be on an incomplete circuit to the battery, in other words the only post of the battery that is connected in any way is the positive post. Also, while here about this, I open the knife blade switch, turn off the house bank, and still the step activates when I open the door.

I have looked at the wiring diagram in the information folders, can not really follow them well and hope someone here will explain.

My thoughts are that you have a bad chassis battery.
As for the steps, yours obviously are fed from the house batteries and like some things (try the slideout and the leveling jacks) it's source is on the input side of the battery switch, so try disconnecting the house batteries.

[cmtnrv]

Parked MH 2 weeks ago after 250mi drive. I tried to start today. House and chassis batteries low. When i parked MH in the barn the 12v disconnect beside door was turned off and the two switches in battery compartment were turned off. So much for thinking this would prevent battery drain. After hooking up 120 v I found that the frig had been left on. Don't know if this was the problem or if it is something else. Will check this after batteries have overnight to charge.

[tompen]

Your original question was why does my disconnected battery go dead in a few days. Something to think about. Do you have a battery hydrometer? Cheap and easy to use. Starting batteries are not designed to be run down and recharged. So if the previous owner did that for 8 months, the battery is bad.
More likely is that it is not getting completely recharged. If you are not recharging it at 2-6 amps for 24 hours it is not getting recharged. If it is 8 months old see if you can get it replaced under warranty and get the new one charged up. Then continue to use your knife switch. As others have said, if the knife switch is open the problem is the battery.

Good luck
Tom

[YC1]

I can see the one switch in the picture, do you have the same type of switch on the other basttery?

Did you measure the battery voltage on either? What is the voltage across the batteries with the engine running. And what is it with shoreline connected.

[YC1]

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
The 12volt Side of Life Part 2

Excellent reading.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by tropical36

My thoughts are that you have a bad chassis battery.

X 2
Here are some suggestions:

1.) Take the chassis battery out and have it "load tested".

2.) While it is out disconnect from shore power and make sure your battery disconnect switch is ON.

3.) Check EVERYTHING in the coach that uses 12VDC to determine what is powered by the house battery. (and what does not work because the chassis battery is out).

4.) Make a list for future use.

My 2 cents.
Mel
'96 Sahara
'96 Sahara

[Walter5555]

I have 4 house batteries and I check the water in them every three weeks or so and what helps to keep them charge up is, I put a couple of Solar Panels on the roof.
But if I turn the house switch off while parked adjacent to my house, the Solar stops charging the batteries.
Just a thought.

[YC1]

Terry, my solar was rewired to connect directly to the battery side of the switch. Seems silly to have it shut off with the switch.

[Possum]

Originally Posted by YC1

Terry, my solar was rewired to connect directly to the battery side of the switch. Seems silly to have it shut off with the switch.

Where do you have your voltage controller located? I want to wire my unit to be selectable between the two battery systems (easy) with a double pole double throw knife blade switch but I can't figure a way of locating the controller where it is visible but unobtrusive.

[YC1]

I have an HR. The controller is in the battery compartment. You would only need a spst switch to switch the positive.
Options would include placing two diodes inline and charging both batteries but you would have a .7 volt drop. Not a huge issue if maintaining batteries while store.

I have a dual output controller that sends 2 amps to the engine batteries. That is plenty for keeping them up. I also have a device that combines both battery banks when there is a charging voltage present so the split controller was really not needed and the total current goes to both banks.

[Jim_HiTek]

As far as the OPs problem goes, if there is a sheen of water and battery acid on the top of the battery, that could run it down. So would a build up of junk inside the battery at the bottom of the case. And as mentioned, sometimes even new batteries are bad.