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MJB661 · 11-05-2011, 12:08 PM

Offical first post, with many to come.
On my 2007 Surf Side on a Ford F53 chassie I have never had power to the trailor brakes. I disconnected the controler, hooked charger to blue wire at rear plug, with test light found power to firewall where it became to cluttered to continue. Checked blue wire at brake control plug and no power. Is there a fuse I am not seeing under dash? I did not buy new but have had for about 2 years.

Shellback1 · 11-05-2011, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJB661

Offical first post, with many to come.
On my 2007 Surf Side on a Ford F53 chassie I have never had power to the trailor brakes. I disconnected the controler, hooked charger to blue wire at rear plug, with test light found power to firewall where it became to cluttered to continue. Checked blue wire at brake control plug and no power. Is there a fuse I am not seeing under dash? I did not buy new but have had for about 2 years.

Maybe a dumb question, but is the controller plug connected to the other end. When I got my Ford F-53, the controller plug was in a bag taped to the steering column. I had to find the other end of the plug that it connects to. On mine there is a plate that pops off the top of the dash and in there is the other end for the controller plug.

Hope this makes sense.

Shellback1 · 11-05-2011, 01:12 PM

On my MH the fuse is F9 and is a 20 Amp.

MJB661 · 11-05-2011, 02:50 PM

The wires go into a masive wire loom than gets lost under the dash than comes out the fire wall and that is where is hot from the back. I checked F9 inside and it is good. I also checked the F13 (30 amp) under the hood, but I believe that is for the red, hot wire to controler. The F9 has power so I am not sure what its for since the blue should not be hot until the pedel is depressed.

bgerbster · 11-06-2011, 09:32 AM

I just wired my brake controller. I traced each wire back under the dash to a connector that had no label but looked like it would go to a controller. It had one fat red wire that would only get hot "12v" when the engine is running. One fat blue wire that I pinned out by running some old speaker wire from the blue wire at the hitch connector along the ground and through the drivers window and verified continuity to the blue wire under the dash. I did the same for the white wire that was in the same connector "ground wire". The only wire I did not know what it was for was a smaller red wire, which I hoped was the brake light signal wire. That's the wire that tells the brake controller you are stepping on the brake pedal. I had to tap into the brake light switch at the brake pedal and now it all works fine. But if anybody knows what the other small red wire is for I sure would like to know.
Thanks
Brian

2006 Dolphin LX 6355 on a W24 Chassis 53,000 miles
Koni FSD's
Blue OX TruCenter Power Stabilizer
Henderson Super Steer Rear Trac Bar
Banks Headers and Ram Air Intake "Self Installed"

MJB661 · 11-06-2011, 01:43 PM

All of the wires in the loom work correctly except for the big Blue brake wire. It seems there is a break in the wire somewhere between the controler and where it exits the firewall. I thought there may be a fuse that National put in that was not on the Ford F53 chassie. The Blue wire is untraceable since it is in the dash all the way to the passanger side before it exits the home. I guess I am close to just running a new wire.
I appreciate the help.

Dmreese1 · 11-06-2011, 01:49 PM

Typically, there is a auto reset breaker between the controller and the Blue wire, but on my Freightliner chassis this was not installed by the factory. I had to add it as I wired the controller in. My harness was also taped to the wire bundle in a plastic bag and I had to connect to the plug and wire the connections.

I think the best way is to see if you have power to the Blue wire starting at the back of the coach. If not at the brake turnsignal plug, maybe the wire was not routed to the plug and you can find it tied up near the back.

Ultimately, you'll need to find out where the wire has been run or run another wire yourself. Never a dull moment with these issues, especially the electrical runs.

Duane

MJB661 · 11-06-2011, 02:40 PM

Thanks Duane, thats what I thought it may be. I hate to go through the trouble of running a wire if there is a reset or fuse and I just don't see it. I did work from the back forward using a battery charger powering the plug(Blue wire) and a test light probing the wire. Lost wire when it went through firewall.

bgerbster · 11-07-2011, 07:29 AM

The blue wire will have no power through it until the brake controller applies power which is triggered by the brake light switch that should also be wired to your controller. Did you check the back of the plug at the bumper to see if the blue wire is wired in? I have read where the factory stops short of completing the wiring and bundles it near the rear of the chassis.

Brian

2006 Dolphin LX 6355 on a W24 Chassis 53,000 miles
Koni FSD's
Blue OX TruCenter Power Stabilizer
Henderson Super Steer Rear Trac Bar
Banks Headers and Ram Air Intake "Self Installed"

wglassjr · 11-07-2011, 10:50 AM

Your problem is probally back at the class 3 receiver hitch. I have a 2006 seabreeze that had the same problem took me forever to find the problem. You need to crawl under the back at the hitch on the left frame rail [driver's side] on the inside frame rail there is a cluster if wires taped together and they were never hooked up from the factory just one wire the brake wire between the frame and the 7 prong plug on the hitch. The way i understand none of them were hooked up from the factory its only one wire that's not hooked up and i beleive it even is marked brakes. Its actually quite easy once you find it. Hope this helps if you need any help pm me