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03-18-2014, 11:30 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 5
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What battery in MH? House or Main? Do you hook up to pos. on MH and Tow veh?
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2008 Bounder 38L w/ 2013 Ford Explorer
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03-18-2014, 11:42 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtboyd
What battery in MH? House or Main? Do you hook up to pos. on MH and Tow veh?
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I used the chassis batteries because they are in the back next to my engine. If both house and chassis batteries are charged while driving, either would do.
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Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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03-18-2014, 12:08 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 5
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Do you use a 1 wire or 2 wire connection? Do you use Pos. to Pos. connection?
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2008 Bounder 38L w/ 2013 Ford Explorer
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03-18-2014, 12:34 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Ground wire is in 6 wire umbilical between toad and RV for all lights and battery. Yes, positive to positive, with auto reset circuit breakers near both batteries to protect against shorts and drawing too much amperage as starter will cause a temporary imbalance.
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Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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03-18-2014, 12:43 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 5
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I did a stright wire from house battery (pos.) to SUV battery (Pos.) and I drove about 70 miles and battery was dead. I used the reset cbs. Dont know why it didnt work. Maybe I should do 2 wire if not going theu 6 wire plug? Also the book says nothing about what position to put the key.
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2008 Bounder 38L w/ 2013 Ford Explorer
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03-18-2014, 12:53 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtboyd
I did a stright wire from house battery (pos.) to SUV battery (Pos.) and I drove about 70 miles and battery was dead. I used the reset cbs. Dont know why it didnt work. Maybe I should do 2 wire if not going theu 6 wire plug? Also the book says nothing about what position to put the key.
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Yes, you need a ground wire to complete a circuit between the batteries.
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Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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03-18-2014, 01:41 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 5
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Thanks
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2008 Bounder 38L w/ 2013 Ford Explorer
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03-18-2014, 02:00 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Summer- Lake Diefenbaker, SK; winter- Westbay Marine Village, Victoria, BC
Posts: 211
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I two a 2012 Ford Explorer.
1- I use a "Toad Charge" connector. Works just fine.
2- I've found that the Ford system works best if the key is turned to a mid-point position between Off and Accessory. You need to play a little with the switch but there is a point of hesitation mid way between the first and second positions. There are four positions, 1- Off, 2- Accessory, 3- Run, 4- Start. The sweet spot is between 1 and 2. Another Ford owner taught me this.
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Jim & Pam Smith, Saskatoon, SK, Canada
2007 Holiday Rambler 40 SKQ, 2012 Ford Explorer XLT
1966 Contl convert., 2009 Harley, 2000 Bayliner 3258
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03-18-2014, 04:07 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Since you need aux brakes on the towed vehicle (Supplemental brakign system) the easiest way to do it is to put in a US-Gear Unified brake decelerator to stop the truck...
This system INCLUDES a charge line for the towed.
True story: Left Detroit on jan-2 2006.. No tail lights on towed, the motor home was not (A diagnostic tool found) providing power to that circuit... Double checked the US-Gear schematic
Turned on the parking lights and made the 2,000 mile trip before getting it fixed.
No problems, 2,000 miles, several days and no problems.
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Home is where I park it!
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