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Old 08-04-2016, 10:28 AM   #1
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Chassis A/C issue

We are returning home from our maiden voyage with our "new" 2002 Sea Breeze LX (Dallas/Salt Lake City/Tacoma/Yellowstone NP/Denver/Dallas) and are "shaking out" a few bugs. My only remaining issue is the chassis A/C in hotter climates - it doesn't cool as expected. Can anyone direct me to the low pressure connection for the truck's A/C system? I've checked the fora and cannot find any references to our vehicle +/- 2 years with a similar issue. Any help, photos, etc. greatly appreciated.

FWIW, I've already used AC Pro's port finder with no luck. And of course I've looked at the vehicle - front access panel, dog house, even crawled underneath. No joy.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:54 PM   #2
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You didn't mention what chassis your RV is on, so location is hard to advise. It's not a good idea to just add refrigerant, especially to an R-134a system. Over-filling can be as bad as low refrigerant. You should use an A/C manifold gauge set that monitors both low and high pressures. Even at that, it doesn't repair leaks or measure oil levels, so it's still not the best. Maximum cooling will happen if you have the HVAC control on 'recirculate' so you're only cooling cabin air, not outside air. Also many use a curtain behind driver and co-pilot seats to limit area needing cooling. When driving into the sun, we often use generator and rooftop A/C for extra cooling.

You might also feel the hoses to the heater core. Many times the heater valve doesn't close all the way so your cooling is being fought by the heater. You could monitor vent temperature with a thermometer and pinch off a heater hose with vice grips, see if cooling improves. Either adjust, repair, replace heater valve or add a gate valve to the heater hose to shut off heat when not needed.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:10 PM   #3
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I've found the Dash AC will not keep a MotorHome cool, especially when it gets HOT.

I've found it works better to run the Generator and the house AC when traveling. Also when the AC takes away engine power that I sometimes need (mountains). Seem to get better gas mileage running Generator and AC than dash AC
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:21 AM   #4
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Same here. I usually take a break after driving a 2 - 3 hours and turn on the gen and cool the coah down. The front, dash iar is pathetic even though I had had it worked on every year.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:11 PM   #5
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Chassis AC issue

I have a newly purchased 04 Sea Breeze with 44K miles. I have just had a new compressor installed and was done by a pro with all the sophisticated evacuation and refrigerant weighing equipment, so I know it was done strictly by the book. But, like yours, mine is cool, but certainly not cold, not like the vents on my car. I intend to put a temperature gauge in the vent tomorrow and see where it is. I did check my electric operated valve that shuts off the hot water to the heater, and it was not closing. So, as a test I pinched off the two hoses. Even with the engine cold, I didn't see much if any difference. I will install a valve on each line to and from the engine tomorrow and see if that helps. I have to return to the mechanic, but in the interim he tells me that it could be a door that diverts the air to/from the heater coil may not be closing. Even with water off, he claims that can affect the temperature. I will report what I find after he checks the system out again next week. I know you can't expect it to cool the coach, but at least it seems the air coming out of the vents should be more than just "cool". Good luck
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Hammonds View Post
I have a newly purchased 04 Sea Breeze with 44K miles. I have just had a new compressor installed and was done by a pro with all the sophisticated evacuation and refrigerant weighing equipment, so I know it was done strictly by the book. But, like yours, mine is cool, but certainly not cold, not like the vents on my car. I intend to put a temperature gauge in the vent tomorrow and see where it is. I did check my electric operated valve that shuts off the hot water to the heater, and it was not closing. So, as a test I pinched off the two hoses. Even with the engine cold, I didn't see much if any difference. I will install a valve on each line to and from the engine tomorrow and see if that helps. I have to return to the mechanic, but in the interim he tells me that it could be a door that diverts the air to/from the heater coil may not be closing. Even with water off, he claims that can affect the temperature. I will report what I find after he checks the system out again next week. I know you can't expect it to cool the coach, but at least it seems the air coming out of the vents should be more than just "cool". Good luck
Carl
You don't really need two valves in the heater core loop, one will stop flow, especially in the line from the water pump.

If your vacuum system isn't working, all air diverts to the defroster vents. If no heated water reaches the heater core, no heat will be added to the system. Max cooling is achieved by recirculating cabin air, not drawing in outside air. Perhaps that's the flap that's not closing.
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Old 08-06-2016, 04:29 PM   #7
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A/C Fix

I had the same problem with my 2004 Sea Breeze Shop put on a new valve kit not sure the item name but it did fix the problem, Also had those big side windows tinted as dark as the law will allow. But like so many your better off with the gen and the big a/c to cool full time it will save you money in the long run just keep your gen service up to date. You may want to add a couple of fans as well.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:33 PM   #8
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thanks,. I hope I can be so lucky. All my dampers are working right, and I feel sure the water/heat proportioning valve is bad on mine, that's why I isolated my heater with manual valves. I have another visit with the mechanic planned.
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:44 AM   #9
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A little advice here. If you install any valves, make sure the shut off stems are tight and maybe even taped to prevent any vibration from backing out your shut off stems and losing coolant.
I purchased two valves and installed one to shut off any hot water going into core. Some where along the Great Alaska Highway I had a warning lite indicating an over heat coming. Pulled over and could smell coolant outside. Found that a valve stem had vibrated out and dumped coolant. it was an 80 mile trip to purchase more coolant. The 2 gallons I stored away did not fill it up and with snow on the ground I would use water for a top off. Second valve stem fixed problem.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:17 PM   #10
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Great advice. I will be sure they are secure. Thanks for the input!
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:56 PM   #11
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First, thank you to all who have responded. I appreciate your valuable comments. Now let me respond to your questions:

BFlinn181 said, "You didn't mention what chassis your RV is on, so location is hard to advise." Yep, I skipped that step. It's a Ford chassis with a 6.8L (~415 cubic inches) V-10 Triton engine. I've found the high pressure measuring point (on the passenger side) but can't seem to find the low pressure valve.

mike9999 suggested I run the generator and use the coach A/C in lieu of the truck A/C. I tried it in the Texas heat on Saturday - for me, the results weren't all that great. A small fan to direct the cool air onto me might have made me feel the cool; without the fan, this wasn't an acceptable solution - heat through the windows was stifling. I can see running the gen in the mountains and cutting off the truck A/C in order to get more power to the wheels.

I read C Hammonds' experiences with interest. I don't believe I have a bad radiator valve / heater hose issue, so your experience seems to mirror mine. (RPM does not seem to affect the temperature of the discharged air.)

lrsses also commented, saying that tinting the side windows may have helped. Yes, I will be adding fans!

Thanks, Whaler2, for the advice. When it's time to add the shutoff valve, I will be sure to secure the valve stem in place. (I now realize that I also need to buy coolant to carry with me. I also need to have the radiator flushed, as well as the power steering and brakes. My first task after buying my coach, was to buy new tires, and have the engine oils & filters - plus the transmission fluid - changed. About 5,000 miles and a month later, time for more TLC.)

Again, thanks to all for spending time to offer your thoughts and experience.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:15 PM   #12
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Both of my Ford Chassis units had the Hi and Lo pressure switches next to each other on the passenger side under the hood. Try following the plumbing for the low side quite possible it is near the condensor (by the radiator) or the dryer (a oblong cylinder) usually near the radiator.

So far as my experience both of my MH's did (do) great with the dash air the only time I ran the house air was recently on a trip. A bad solder joint was giving me intermitent power.
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:04 PM   #13
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I meant to say hi lo pressure ports above, sorry about that
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike9999 View Post
I've found the Dash AC will not keep a MotorHome cool, especially when it gets HOT.

I've found it works better to run the Generator and the house AC when traveling. Also when the AC takes away engine power that I sometimes need (mountains). Seem to get better gas mileage running Generator and AC than dash AC
X2 I added R134a to the correct pressure and my low pressure tube at the port will freeze your hand in seconds now when the compressor is running. We went to Mackinaw City, MI on July 4th and it still could not keep up. Trying to cool that big box with the small dash ac is like a fart in a whirl wind. Like most others, we ran the genny and the front ac along with the dash air. I might try adding a shut off valve myself. Escpecially before we head out to Utah in mid October.
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