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First question: Is there a battery there now? YES, read on, NO: skip to Uh-Oh
Mark the positive wires and the negative wire(s) with red (Positive) and black (negative) paint, nail polish or tape.
Now you currently have
-{Battery}+
With six volt you will have
-{Bat}+t-{ery}+ (the t in the middle is a jumper wire)
In both cases you have a 12 volt battery, (The lower one is a 4D)
End of first part
Uh-Oh
Figuring out which one is negative is the issue,,, Usually there is only one, but there may be more.. If they were not marked as above by the Prior owner you can have several positive wires.
Two of the wires will be larger than the rest (possibly only one) Follow these wires, One will most likely go to a "Device" (Fuse, circuit breaker or switch) this is the POSITIVE (main positive) wire
The other will most likely bolt to the chassis, though that can be 50 feet from here you hook up (well on my rig) This is the negative, mark it.
The rest are most likely positive but you need to test protected. here is how
I have assorted test lights
Two of them are basically Dash Lamp bulbs, one has wires soldered to it, the other is a store bought assembly I really like for this kind of thing, it has a clear or colored handle, an ice pick point, and a wire coming out the handle, lamp is inside.
Another is a 50 or 75 or 100 watt 12 volt Trouble light (not sure what size lamp I have in it) another is a 150 Watt flood light
How to test other leads
With unit not plugged in hook clip to positive battery terminal. Touch each wire in turn, if any fully light the lamp hold it for a bit if the lamp continues at full brillance mark as suspect,,, Any wire that keeps lamp dark is a device not drawnng power
Find out what is not working
Have partner try to activate that device (Steps are #1)
That shoudl do it. If all else fails you can try a bigger lamp.
Any wire that keeps the light on full is most likely a ground.
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Home is where I park it!
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