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Old 08-17-2018, 02:08 PM   #1
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Dash A/C Not working

Hi all,

The Dash A/c has stopped working in my 1997 Tropical. I have started troubleshooting and ran into a wall. I have checked all Fuses and have checked to see if there is power going to the compressor. There is no power going there, so next step would be to check the relay. Only I cant find it and service manual does not show A/C on the F53 chassis for this year. So I assume it was installed by National after the fact.

Does anyone know where the relay is? Any other tips to troubleshoot this problem. We are headed for Burning Man in a week and with no A/C the wife will not have a happy trip.

Thank you for your help.

Jerry
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Old 08-17-2018, 02:21 PM   #2
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Maybe this....have you tried "recharging the system with 134 coolant". Some AC's have a pressure switch that opens on low-coolant, interrupting the power to the compressor! It's a cheap shot in the dark! Rook
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Old 08-19-2018, 09:44 AM   #3
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IF YOUR UNIT IS A "EVANS" HERE IS THEIR SPEC
Total R-134a Refrigerant charges for various vehicle/chassis are shown below:

RV APPLICATIONS
FRONT ENGINE CHASSIS CHARGE GM (Chevy) P-30, L-19, L-29, L-65 2.75 Lbs. GM (Chevy) P-12 w/Parallel-Flow Condenser 2.0 Lbs. Workhorse before '05 model except W-24 2.75 Lbs. (1) Workhorse - all models with black Behr condenser and two fans 2.00 Lbs. Workhorse W22/W24 w/Multi-flow Condenser and no fans 1.5 Lbs. Workhorse Front Engine Diesel 1.75 Lbs. Ford E-33 w/Serpentine Condenser 2.25 Lbs. Ford F-53 w/Fin & Tube Condenser 2.75 Lbs. Ford F-53 w/Silver Multi-flow Condenser(starting with MY2012) 2.13 Lbs. Ford V-10 Super Duty w/6mm Condenser 2.75 Lbs. FTL Front Engine Diesel w/Parallel-Flow Condenser 1.5 Lbs. FTL Front Engine Diesel w/remote mounted condenser and fan 2.25 Lbs. (1) For W22 without an auxiliary condenser, charge would be 1.75 lbs and performance would be re

DO --NOT -- TRY TO CHARGE YOUR AC BY GUAGES, THE CHARGE MUST BE WEIGHED IN. HARD LESSONS LEARNED HERE.

THERE SHOULD BE ONE INLINE PRESSURE SWITCH NEAR THE EVAP OR DRIER THAT IS A BINIARY SWITCH, IT WILL BREAK CIRCUT ON EITHER HIGH OR LOW FREON PRESSURE. THERE SHOULD BE A COLD CONTROL SWITCH COMING OUT OF THE EVAP AND MOUNTED ON THE EVAP COVER. MY COVER HAS "EVANS" MOLDED INTO IT. IT IS TO BREAK CIRCUIT IF THE EVAP FREEZES OVER AT WILL ALLOW THE ICE TO MELT OFF BEFORE RECONTACTING THE CIRCUIT. ( MINE FAILED AND I FOUND IT BY JUMPING THE TWO TERMINALS, RAN IT LONG TIME BY PASSED) THERE ARE MANY POSSIBILITES TO SHUT THE COMPRESSOR OFF NOT JUST A SWITCH. BAD DASH SWITCH OR NOT GETTING PANNEL POWER, BAD BINIARY SWITCH, HIGH OR LOW FREON PRESSURE, BAD CLUTCH ELECTROMAGNET, BAD RECIVER DRIER, BAD COLD CONTROL SWITCH.
AGAIN DONT JUST PUT GUAGES ON AND CHARGE AS YOU WOULD A CAR, WILL NOT WORK. WEIGH THE CHARGE IN AND GIVE THE SYSTEM SEVERAL MINUTES TO STABLIZE.

JUST A PROCESS OF ELIMATION
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:19 AM   #4
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Interesting post. I wonder if that's why my local RV service center won't work on my dash A/C. They said they can no longer perform this service as their equipment was out of calibration and no longer worked.

Rob
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:30 PM   #5
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Virtually all systems have a circuit which prevents the ac clutch from engaging if low or no charge.

To see if this is your issue, find the low pressure port and hook a can from auto parts store on it. Just doing that is enough pressure to fool the pressure switch. If you do that and the clutch engages, your next step is not about how much to add, it’s to understand why what was in a closed system went bye bye.

Recharging comes after the repair.

And yeah as noted above gauges can be a guide, but will allow you to overfill even though the pressure reading is ‘in range’
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