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Old 03-24-2021, 11:09 AM   #1
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DC to DC charger wiring...

Added PO4 batteries to my coach. bought a dc to dc charger/ limiter to prevent burning up my alternator.


was told to wire it to both side of the transfer relay, witch I did.


It seems to me that this is wrong. wired as it is, 50 amps would charge the house batteries whenever the alt. is putting out voltage. when the starting batteries reach the appropriate voltage, the relay would open and the house batteries would then grab the entire output of the alternator.



This would potentially burn up the alternator.


?


tom
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Old 03-24-2021, 12:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F451degrees View Post
Added PO4 batteries to my coach. bought a dc to dc charger/ limiter to prevent burning up my alternator.


was told to wire it to both side of the transfer relay, witch I did.


It seems to me that this is wrong. wired as it is, 50 amps would charge the house batteries whenever the alt. is putting out voltage. when the starting batteries reach the appropriate voltage, the relay would open and the house batteries would then grab the entire output of the alternator.



This would potentially burn up the alternator.


?


tom
Not sure how you use the transfer relay, but my dc-dc charger [30 amp] will only allow 30 amps to go to the house batteries. Both start and house will accept a charge at the same time. with the start tapering off as the voltage rises, and house the same, but taking 30 amps till almost 100% SOC.
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Old 03-24-2021, 01:18 PM   #3
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I hope your not wiring the Batt to Batt charger to your 50 amp Auto Transfer Switch.
If you are remove it before you damage things.

What your looking for is the 12 volt isolation solenoid ( relay ).

It will have a battery cable from the chassis batteries and house batteries on the large terminals.
You wire it there and remove one of the small wires so it don't work.
The Batt to Batt charger limits the charge from chassis battery and house batteries.
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Old 03-25-2021, 09:41 AM   #4
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It is wired to the solenoid, so remove one of the small wires and disable the solenoid, and not the the aux start function.


Correct?


Or is there a way to still use the aux start function without accessing the solenoid and replacing the wire? Or is one the aux start and the other the auto charge circuit?


tom
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Old 01-16-2022, 04:06 PM   #5
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Wiring of Dc-to-Dc charger

Did you ever figure this out? I need to do the exact same thing. I'm assuming the Dc-to-Dc charger connects to the Interconnect Soleniod pictured in this diagram? Can you tell me exactly how this needs to be wired? Any help greatly appreciated...
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Old 01-18-2022, 07:39 AM   #6
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I am parked and have not done any thing yet, but will remove one wire from solenoid, and than wire in a switch to turn aux start back on if needed. then will not need to reattach the wire.


haven't moved the coach in months and hooked up
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Old 01-18-2022, 04:26 PM   #7
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Ah so you're saying put a switch on the coach battery side of the solenoid which you can keep turned off most of the time. So that would prevent the coach batteries from trying to draw power from the alternator when the switch is off? Does that solve the whole problem without going through a bunch of complicated other stuff?
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Old 01-26-2022, 08:38 AM   #8
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Am I overcomplicating this?

Let's say I don't care if the alternator EVER charges the house battery. Couldn't I simply put a circuit breaker/fuse between my house load positive cable and my battery positive and literally use it to disconnect the house batteries while travelling? Doesn't that solve the whole issue? I realize you're turning off every 12v system in the coach, but if I'm OK with that can anyone see any problem with this?
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Old 02-01-2022, 10:52 AM   #9
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Logistics and actual real-world facts reason no. 184 to just stick with conventional batteries instead of the latest hype...
...but I digress...

The limiter should be only on the feed to the house battery bank. As such, you'll need to reverse-engineer the way National's battery interconnect works, so that it charges the chassis battery bank directly from the alternator when the engine is running, while supplying power to the current limiter while the engine is running. I figure the way to do this is to put it between the interconnect solenoid and the battery bank. What other "gotchas" will this cause? Perhaps the battery boost switch function will no longer work?
As for me, GC2 batteries are perfect. If I get real lazy and eventually grow weary of pumping the filler bulb in the Flow-Rite setup, I'll put in a set of AGMs.
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Old 02-01-2022, 11:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVAJeff View Post
Let's say I don't care if the alternator EVER charges the house battery. Couldn't I simply put a circuit breaker/fuse between my house load positive cable and my battery positive and literally use it to disconnect the house batteries while travelling? Doesn't that solve the whole issue? I realize you're turning off every 12v system in the coach, but if I'm OK with that can anyone see any problem with this?

If your objective is to have the alternator ONLY charge the chassis battery, that is really easy to accomplish. How you do it will depend on how your alternator is wired to the two different batteries (probably either diode-based battery isolator or solenoid-based battery isolator).
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