Community Forums

edrudd · 11-10-2016, 12:04 AM

Here my 04 Dolphin sits in my driveway totally dead. 3 new batteries and no response when the key is turned. This all started when driving 70 mph on I-35 north of Whichita Ks. and the tow bar broke in half while towing my Saturn Vue. Of course the brake assist had to be on vacation elsewhere. Thank you for very strong chains for keeping everything safe and whole except for the wiring to the towed veh. and the connecter on the RV. Wires completely gone.
Now the problem. While installing new wires to the existing RV wires and my wife in the RV to use the lights and turn signals with the ignition on she tells me all lights on the inst. panel went out. I lost electricity to the lights I was splicing. There was no pop sound, no spark no indication anything unusual happened. However the ignition was dead. I've pulled all the fuses both behind the inst. panel and at the front of the engine. I also tripped and reset the breaker at the power distribution panel. Nothing wrong there. All GFI are good as well. There are several relay units around the fuse panels, could one of them cause this? The interior lights all work so the shore power is fine. I've been after this since early morning only quitting because of being to dark to continue and frankly, I'm out of ideas. I welcome any new thoughts.

Rook · 11-10-2016, 05:57 AM

My advice......Inquire around and find yourself a good RV Electrical Tech person. Hire him to fix your problem. He will come with all the Test equipment that is needful. It will cost you a few $$$, but it will be done quickly, right and with much less stress. Rook

Tahiti16 · 11-10-2016, 08:47 AM

If the ignition and dash is dead that is the chassis battery, chase the positive cable back to where it connects and work towards dash with voltmeter. Might also double check the ground cable connection at the frame. Don't remember anyone ever putting a fuse for chassis only the big ole 200 amp fuse for the house between battery and inverter/charger.

edrudd · 11-10-2016, 11:02 PM

I think your advice is probably the way I'll go. The tech. (he/she) will have to be mobile tho cause this coach won't go anywhere. It'l take me a few days and more messing with it before your advice sinks into this stubborn Norwegian. I do appreciate your time to reply. Guess I better look for a dance partner.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 11-11-2016, 04:24 AM

Ed-

Three things to look at as you continue to "mess with it":

1) If you don't have a chassis manual, you can download one here. It will show fuses.

2) The Ford Body Builder Layout Book contains fuse information. Here's a link to the one for the 2003 F-53 electrical pages. I'm guessing your 2004 is built on a 2003 chassis. If it's built on a 2004 chassis, here (and here) are the links for those electrical pages.

3) This is a guess. Fuse #6 in the "Power Distribution Box," a.k.a. the "Battery Junction Box," is at the upstream end of the instrument panel illumination and marker light circuits. I'd pull and replace it. The PDB/BJB is the one under the hood, against the firewall, in the center.

I would not surprised if you shorted out an input to the PCM, the computer that regulates the engine functions. My homemade diagram set doesn't show all the inputs, and getting at the service DVD I have is a bit tedious, so start with fuse #6 and we can go from there.

ChasRob · 11-11-2016, 06:52 PM

You didn't specify the chassis type, Ford or Workhorse. If it is a workhorse then pay some attention to the ignition switch. There are a bunch of wires going to the switch controlling several different things and the terminals are very weak. You might have overloaded a wire and burned up a terminal. The switch is difficult, but possible, to remove and they are available at an auto parts store for under $50.

edrudd · 11-11-2016, 09:18 PM

Two great suggestions for me to follow up on. Mark you make me proud to be a member of this site with all your work you did. Unfortunately for me the coach is built on the workhorse w22 frame and I don't know if there is any similarities between the two builders. However you did put a bug in my ear. Thank you very much.
Chas your info. on the ignition switch is one I never would have thought of and I will be looking into in the morning. When this problem is resolved I will post the result and perhaps others will benefit. Thanks to all that take time and make the effort to help. Any and all replies are greatly appreciated. Ed.

ChasRob · 11-12-2016, 01:01 AM

edrudd
I have the Workhorse W22 chassis. If you search the forum on ignition switches you'll find it can cause many different problems, basically anything that energizes when the switch is turned on. Any of these contacts can fail. You might be able to trace power in and power out of the switch if you know where any of the wires go.
I remembered the price wrong, it was for the P32 chassis. The post below was my final result for the fix.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/need-...ml#post3185852

edrudd · 11-13-2016, 11:03 PM

i feel like running around my neighborhood naked yelling, "I fixed it...I fixed it" But I've got no neighborhood and my nearest neighbor is 100 yards away. My Dead motor home is dead no longer. The best part is my wife is smiling again. After following wire and cable with volt meter in hand, the guilty culprit reveled itself. There is a reset button well hidden behind the panel in front of the power distribution center. I'm attaching two photos so that others in a similar situation may have a easier time of it. Arrow 1 points to a relay with a trip lever. this shuts off power to the front TV. #2 is the bad guy that shut down all lights and the engine. I believe it connects to the converter.
Many thank you's to all that replied to my request for help. Through the info. I received I blew out some old cobwebs in the cranium and hit pay dirt. Without these kind souls I doubt I would have succeeded I tip my hat to you.
Ed.