Delamination just above basement doors.

[Robby W.]

Steve,


Yes, please lit us/me know how your project is going. It would be awesome if you could post a few pictures to. This issue has really taken a toll on me emotionally and I hate to take the motorhome out of the garage if I think it'll rain ...not a good way to live.


Robby

[tropically]

OK these are some pictures of my delam project. The bottom picture is a piece of particle board with what looks like contact bond cement on one side which fell out while cleaning the bulging area. The 1st picture shows the factory tape used to seal the wall bottom from water intrusion from the basement door hinge screws, the 2nd picture is the frame metal where the basement doors attach ' rusted '.
The 3rd picture is a bulge coming from the refrigerator down to the basement door location & the next one is the delam area going back towards the back of the coach.

Sent from my iPhone

[tropically]

Hi everyone, I just loaded the Mobil app ( thanks Robby ) & I'm learning how to use it so in my last post the pictures don't match the order that I posted but if you look at them it's pretty much self explanatory. I will treat the frame rust with locktite rust stabilizer.
In order to attempt to flatten the bulging area I have removed some of the expanded particle board from between the two panels by scraping with a putty knife, at this point I'm leaning towards using a polyurethane glue because it foams & expands hopefully up into the cavity. I might put the wall screws back in to seal the bottom & force the glue upwards instead of coming out of the bottom, I could tape the bottom as well then clamp everything as soon as I think the glue has coated everything, dry time for the glue is 4 hrs but I'll probably leave it over night to be sure so unclamping will be the moment of truth but either way the area will be re laminated & waterproofed.

[Robby W.]

Originally Posted by tropically

Hi everyone, I just loaded the Mobil app ( thanks Robby ) & I'm learning how to use it so in my last post the pictures don't match the order that I posted but if you look at them it's pretty much self explanatory. I will treat the frame rust with locktite rust stabilizer.
In order to attempt to flatten the bulging area I have removed some of the expanded particle board from between the two panels by scraping with a putty knife, at this point I'm leaning towards using a polyurethane glue because it foams & expands hopefully up into the cavity. I might put the wall screws back in to seal the bottom & force the glue upwards instead of coming out of the bottom, I could tape the bottom as well then clamp everything as soon as I think the glue has coated everything, dry time for the glue is 4 hrs but I'll probably leave it over night to be sure so unclamping will be the moment of truth but either way the area will be re laminated & waterproofed.

I am so happy to see you doing this work because I was to afraid of what I didn't know to start removing doors and that belt molding. Please, Please keep posting on your project. I'd love to talk to you on the phone some day too. So many questions.

Robby

[tropically]

Originally Posted by Robby W.

I am so happy to see you doing this work because I was to afraid of what I didn't know to start removing doors and that belt molding. Please, Please keep posting on your project. I'd love to talk to you on the phone some day too. So many questions.



Robby

Hi Robby, I would be happy to speak with you on the phone but I'm not sure if I should post my number on this site, I've since found some tricks to get at the delam. Steve

[Walter5555]

I have a 1997 36' Dolphin and it started to leak water on the inside just in back of the passenger chair so I took it to a place that does that kind of work so I am having them redo my roof and all around my windows and the door as well as around all the vents.
If this does not fix the problem then I will sell it.
Just a thought.

[tmw188]

Originally Posted by tropically

OK these are some pictures of my delam project. The bottom picture is a piece of particle board with what looks like contact bond cement on one side which fell out while cleaning the bulging area. The 1st picture shows the factory tape used to seal the wall bottom from water intrusion from the basement door hinge screws, the 2nd picture is the frame metal where the basement doors attach ' rusted '.
The 3rd picture is a bulge coming from the refrigerator down to the basement door location & the next one is the delam area going back towards the back of the coach.

Sent from my iPhoneAttachment 138395Attachment 138396Attachment 138397Attachment 138398

What's the latest on your repair? I may attempt it myself sometime.


iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

[tropically]

Hi, well I have some good news & some not so good news!
The good news is that I have almost completed the no slide side wall delam repair & I chose to use an epoxy resin from west marine which I injected up from below the wall panel & pushed up inside with a putty knife & pressed by placing 2x4 wood along the panel (waxed coach wall 1st) & didn't wipe it off until after the resin had dried & the wood was removed. then I put 2x4 pieces from a brace site to the wood along the wall & shimmed as needed to flatten the panel.
Now for the not so good but not too bad news, the panel didn't entirely flatten out as I had hoped, so what did I get out of my efforts? & would I have done it had I known the outcome? The answer is yes I would, here's why.
1, The wall frame had been rusting under the delaminated wall panel & I removed as much rust as I could gain access to clean & treated with locktight rust stabilizer, I then coated the metal with a product called zero rust.
2, The resin sealed the wall from any further water intrusion & firmed everything back solid, some of the delamination was flattened out & some was only marginally better.
3, during this process I have been cleaning up & sealing any metal burried behind the basement doors & replacing the door seals along the hinges in an effort to keep water from getting in from below.
In conclusion my thoughts are that the delam deep behind the filon & gel coat is thick & couldn't be compressed back completely however as I stated in an earlier post delam is a result of water intrusion & however unsightly is an indication of deeper problems that need serious attention, I chose not to ignore it & went after it. I know the repairs were necessary.
I'll send some picts from my mobile after I get it back together,trying to beat the rains & it looks like I'll have some black tank repairs to make as well YUCK! So if anybody has any ideas about how to replace the inner workings of a sani-flush system including how to access the vacuum breaker up inside the wall get back to me thanks Steve

[Robby W.]

Awesome write-up on your project Steve. You are one brave soul going that deep into this repair.

I've stopped the water for getting in a year ago and have decided to do nothing about repairing the damage. I'm sure all will be fine for the next 4-5 years I'll keep it and by then she'll be 13 years old and not worth much anyway. But bro, your amazing and my hats off to you for getting after it.

Look forward to your pictures.

Robby

[tropically]

The first one is before 2nd is after last one is during with my shade tree mechanic method of clamping ( flattening ) the delam area back down.

[tmw188]

I think it looks really good can I drop mine off?

[tmw188]

Hey tropically I left you a PM (private message) I know your knew to the forum so you will have to look for it, for I typically use a Ipad not the full website version.


iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

[tropically]

For those of you who think that water is intruding from the basement doors, you might be right because National used tape products to seal off the top of the basement doors up & around the space under the wall & as long as this tape is in good shape it keeps the water out but the tape flexes every time the doors are opened & closed. I removed the tape in the process of my repairs & added a small 1/2 round refrigeration weather strip between the hinge to prevent water intrusion, it has a tape surface so it will stay put on a clean surface & seals when the doors are shut.

[tropically]

That would be a long drive for you my friend & you wouldn't be the 1st to show up at my door with a similar problem but if you do, your going to get dirty & you'll probably need a few bandaids before you see results. It's not an easy fix but I have found over my years of do it yourself-ology that fear of the unknown is the enemy & self confidence has been my best option or maybe it's my curse to jump into something that's over my head & figuring my way out in sort of a no other option kind of way.