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Old 05-28-2013, 07:34 PM   #1
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Gullible, naive rookie may have been taken

I'll have more discussion later about why I believe I have been duped. For now I have questions about a couple of things not working. (I was assured everything worked except the satellite) NOT.

Fans above windshield did not work until I crawled under the steering wheel while looking for fuse panel for dash radio. No fuse panel, but found many wires and several connectors. Guess what - when I pushed some wires aside to get a closer look, I heard the fans start. Jiggled a few times and fans go off and on. Pushed all connectors together and fans stayed on. No such luck with radio.

Where is fuse for radio?

Also working on driving light and fog lights. Fog light switch appears to be defective... more to follow.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:21 AM   #2
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No replies yet. Question buried?

Did I bury my question in my other comments?

Quote:

Where is fuse for radio?
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:49 AM   #3
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On my Discovery there is an inline fuse as the hot wire leaves the back of radio.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:50 AM   #4
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You need to give us you MH info
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:02 PM   #5
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I got the info, from the OP! But know where the fuse is.

"1999 National Tradewinds 7371; Cat 3126; 6 Speed Allison; 7.5 KW Onan; Freedom 20 "
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:19 PM   #6
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Look for a fuse in the chassis fuse panel. Mine is under the driver's side window, your's maybe in another area. That said, it will not be found in the coach house fuse panels. As said before there also can be an inline fuse for the power feed coming out the back of the radio, should be found by going under the dash and looking for it. Did you buy this rig from a dealer, if so you might have recourse in getting these things fixed. If you bought from a private owner, you're out of luck. When you were buying, did you just take their word for it or did you try everything before you bought?
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:20 PM   #7
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Radio fuse could be in 3 places. On the fuse panel for driver's controls. In hot lead to radio, or on the back of the radio. I've seen them in all three places. Also you might have a dash switch that allows radio play without acc position of ignition, power switches to house batteries. Use a multimeter to check the fog light switch. Check ground wires under dash, they are the root of many mysterious electrical issues.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:28 PM   #8
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fog lights and driving lights may not work without engine running and headlights on.
loose connections are part of the fun of dragging your house down the road. it never ends
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaverfever View Post
fog lights and driving lights may not work without engine running and headlights on.
loose connections are part of the fun of dragging your house down the road. it never ends
Amen to that, all of these problems could have occurred in the first 15 minutes driving away from where he bought it.
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:56 PM   #10
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My coach has been CUSTOM wired by an electrical engineer and everything does work. Sadly, only he knows how he did it! Any 12 volt system is pretty easy to jury rig. It takes a lot of patience, a good, small LED flashlight, be ambidextrous and know all your numbers and colors.

Hang in there.........
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mknight View Post
You need to give us you MH info
I'm not sure what else to tell you beyond the signature line????
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coaster1 View Post
My coach has been CUSTOM wired by an electrical engineer and everything does work. Sadly, only he knows how he did it! Any 12 volt system is pretty easy to jury rig. It takes a lot of patience, a good, small LED flashlight, be ambidextrous and know all your numbers and colors.

Hang in there.........
I had hoped to rely on the drawings I found by TheBerrys, however, I appears mine has some none standard wiring. By non standard, I do not mean shoddy - just not like the drawings. For example, the 12 VDC fuse distribution panel looks nothing like that in my Owners Guide. I'll take pictures to show when I get around to those issues.

Used the small Harbor Fright flashlight while I was under the dash...

I have about a month to get things together before we are hitting the road for a couple of months. It's getting hot here in Florida.
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaverfever View Post
fog lights and driving lights may not work without engine running and headlights on.
loose connections are part of the fun of dragging your house down the road. it never ends
Left driving light works, lamp burnt out on right side. Neither fog light works. Driving lamps and fog lamps work off of same negative wire. No voltage at fog lamp terminal.
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Radio fuse could be in 3 places. On the fuse panel for driver's controls. In hot lead to radio, or on the back of the radio. I've seen them in all three places. Also you might have a dash switch that allows radio play without acc position of ignition, power switches to house batteries. Use a multimeter to check the fog light switch. Check ground wires under dash, they are the root of many mysterious electrical issues.
Removed two covers below switches left of drivers seat. Found three different fuse assemblies - none marked as radio. Did not find an inline fuse behind radio. Will try to get my head further up behind the radio to see if there is a fuse on the back of the radio.

Speaking of multimeter - what quality meter do most of you use. I have used everything from the cheapest Harbor Fright model to an expensive Fluke. My current go to instrument is this Craftsman Professional True RMS AC/DC Clamp Ammeter - Tools - Electricians Tools - Multi-Meters & Meters
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