RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > National RV Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-21-2012, 09:10 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
BarryN514's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 328
Help , No power on hills

After dealing with this gas tank issue,http://www.irv2.com/forums/f105/help...ak-122740.html , now have another problem.

Just got back from our first long trip in our new to us RV. When going up a incline, hill or trying to pass a truck that is going 45 MPH, I have no power, it just lugs. I have the V-10, transmission is the 3 speed with overdrive and to take it out of overdrive I have to push the button on the shifter or step on the gas to drop it back into 3rd. Transmission shifts into all gear smoothly and trans. fluid it clean.

When we got to our destination, I called a road side repairman and he checked the fuel filter and the fuel was brown. REAL Dirty! He checked a few other things and everything seem to be ok. We didn't take it for a test ride because we were hooked up but the engine seem to spur nicely. On a level road, it run great but under load, it barely makes it up a hill. On our way back to San Diego and going up the grapevine, took it out of overdrive and it just lugged and surged and barely made it up the hill.

Going to get another fuel filter and see if the new one is clogged up.

Don't know if there is a vacuum line or modular that works with the transmission??

Any thoughts.

THANKS!
__________________

__________________
Barry
2013 Bounder 34M
Toad-Hyundai Elantra w/Blue ox tow bar and SMI Delta Force Brake system
BarryN514 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-21-2012, 09:40 AM   #2
WiFiRanger Ambassador
 
docj's Avatar
Official iRV2 Sponsor
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 6,040
We also had a Class C with that drivetrain. Banks makes (or used to) a transmission module that provided part throttle downshifts which made going up hills a lot easier. There were a few other benefits as well. It was marketed under the name Transcommand and cost ~$250; installation was quite easy.

This is not to say that you don't also have an additional problem, but it's also possible that the performance is normal but unacceptable to you.
__________________

__________________
Joel Weiss--WiFiRanger RV Ambassador
RVParkReviews administrator
2000 40' Beaver Patriot Thunder Princeton CAT C-12
docj is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 09:45 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
wildtoad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,336
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryN514 View Post
After dealing with this gas tank issue,http://www.irv2.com/forums/f105/help...ak-122740.html , now have another problem.

Just got back from our first long trip in our new to us RV. When going up a incline, hill or trying to pass a truck that is going 45 MPH, I have no power, it just lugs. I have the V-10, transmission is the 3 speed with overdrive and to take it out of overdrive I have to push the button on the shifter or step on the gas to drop it back into 3rd. Transmission shifts into all gear smoothly and trans. fluid it clean.

When we got to our destination, I called a road side repairman and he checked the fuel filter and the fuel was brown. REAL Dirty! He checked a few other things and everything seem to be ok. We didn't take it for a test ride because we were hooked up but the engine seem to spur nicely. On a level road, it run great but under load, it barely makes it up a hill. On our way back to San Diego and going up the grapevine, took it out of overdrive and it just lugged and surged and barely made it up the hill.

Going to get another fuel filter and see if the new one is clogged up.

Don't know if there is a vacuum line or modular that works with the transmission??

Any thoughts.

THANKS!
How many fuel filters to you have? Sometimes there are two.
__________________
Tom Wilds
Blythewood SC
2016 Newmar Bay Star Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2DR 4WD Sahara, Automatic, Hard Top
wildtoad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 09:51 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
87Rockwood's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Lyons, GA
Posts: 769
There can be a filter in the tank as well.
87Rockwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 09:54 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
BarryN514's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 328
Quote:
but it's also possible that the performance is normal but unacceptable to you.
Have drove some large trucks and some other RV and never had one do this. Like I said, it surges like it isn't getting enough gas under a load.

Sure thought we had the problem solves after replacing the old fuel filter.
__________________
Barry
2013 Bounder 34M
Toad-Hyundai Elantra w/Blue ox tow bar and SMI Delta Force Brake system
BarryN514 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 09:55 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
BarryN514's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 328
Quote:
There can be a filter in the tank as well.
mmm, didn't know that.
__________________
Barry
2013 Bounder 34M
Toad-Hyundai Elantra w/Blue ox tow bar and SMI Delta Force Brake system
BarryN514 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 10:23 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 259
If filters are all good I would suggest fuel pump might be next to check.
__________________
Dave
2004 Newmar KSDP 3353
Surrey B.C.
srydve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 10:35 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
87Rockwood's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Lyons, GA
Posts: 769
Or you could have a fuel volume/pressure test done. And the filter in the tank is on the end of the fuel pick-up line. Some people call it a "sock" for some reason.
87Rockwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 11:43 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
HeapBigEngin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 637
FWIW, most newer fuel tank fuel pumps do have a sort of sock device to help keep contaminants out of the fuel system. It could have a film of some sort covering it which would restrict flow. Since these pumps are electric, they generally either work or they don't. Sometimes the "one-way" valve in the pump will leak, allowing fuel to flow back into the tank rather than stay within the system after engine shutdown. However this usually only accounts for long crank time during start up rather than your situation.

Fuel pressure can be checked easily by installing a pressure gauge upstream on the fuel rail or elsewhere near the engine and starting the engine.....probably should be in the 40-50 lbs. psi range (check Ford specs). Very important....the tech should also ensure that the pressure stays within the system for some time after engine shutdown. If the pressure falls immediately or fairly rapidly after shutdown, then you probably have a leaking one-way valve in the fuel pump or, more likely, a leaking fuel injector(s). These 2 issues normally result in long cranking times as fuel pressure is re-established. However, a leaking injector can also cause driveability issues too.

Based on your comments, it is also possible that the injectors themselves are contaminated. Clogged injectors will definitely restrict fuel flow under load. Some injectors can be taken apart and cleaned, others not. If your fuel was as dirty as the repair guy said it was, your injectors will not be happy at all with that situation. Injectors operate at high pressures and with VERY close internal tolerances. Contamination here is quite likely and could easily cause you the problems described. If you need to replace your injectors, it is critical that you have solved the source of the fuel contamination....or you will soon be back at Square One again.

One other thought. I would also check for any exhaust restriction you might have. Some years ago, it was not uncommon for catalytic converters on cars and light trucks to come apart internally, severely restricting exhaust flow. Many times, it would only become apparent under heavy acceleration....the exhaust just couldn't flow quickly and would "plug up" the engine. Sometimes engine overheating would also occur. Although you probably don't have a converter on your coach, you might look around for other restrictions or blockages that would result in the same thing. Just a thought....

Please let us know what you find out....good luck and thanks!
__________________
2003 Fleetwood Revolution DP
HeapBigEngin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 11:55 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
BarryN514's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 328
Thanks for the replies. I am at a total loss. Don't like taking it into a RV repair shop because I wonder how trustfully they are these day. A simple fix could run into hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Am at their mercy I guess.
__________________
Barry
2013 Bounder 34M
Toad-Hyundai Elantra w/Blue ox tow bar and SMI Delta Force Brake system
BarryN514 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 12:14 PM   #11
WiFiRanger Ambassador
 
docj's Avatar
Official iRV2 Sponsor
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 6,040
Can you take it to a Ford truck dealer rather than an RV dealer? I always had engine/transmission work on my Class C done by a Ford dealer. It's not that they're necessarily more honest, but at least their technicians have the necessary training to diagnose and correct the problem.
__________________
Joel Weiss--WiFiRanger RV Ambassador
RVParkReviews administrator
2000 40' Beaver Patriot Thunder Princeton CAT C-12
docj is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 02:42 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
RinkersRanch's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Mid Atlantic Campers
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Locust Grove, Virginia
Posts: 345
low engine power tests

All great suggestions so far. I would like to ask, if this problem just started, or has it been acting this way since you got it? (sorry if this has already been ask.)

As to the possible exhaust restriction, here is a fairly easy test, (once you get that engine cover off), that will show a severely restricted exhaust system:
I would install two gauges, (the two birds with one stone (test) thing)
These are no load tests and can be done by one person. I suggest running both (no load) vacuum and fuel pressure, tests at the same time.
Install:
1. A manifold vacuum gauge.
2. A fuel rail pressure gauge.
Vacuum test:
Start the engine with the trans in N and slowly accelerate the engine (over about 10 seconds) from idle to over 3500 rpm. The vacuum gauge should go to a maximum reading (20"hg +) and stay there. If the gauge climbs to a high reading and then starts to drop as the engine speed continues to increase, you have excessive exhaust restriction. An exhaust restricted enough to cause this type gauge action will cause a significant power loss.
Fuel pressure test:
Running a fuel pressure test with out a significant load on the engine is not a totally valid fuel pressure test. But, if the fuel pressure is very low with no load on the engine or, as was stated earlier 'drops to zero as soon as the engine is shut off' this indicates a serious fuel delivery problem. If the fuel pressure holds steady during the following vacuum test then a loaded test on fuel pressure needs to be done. (see below)

Accelerate the engine several times to confirm results.


I have to agree that the problem sounds more like a fuel delivery problem.

If a problem does not show up during the no load test, run the loaded fuel pressure test. You will need to drive the coach so you need two people to do this, please do not try to drive and watch the gauge.

Loaded fuel pressure test = [takes 2 people] 1st person driving up a long hill, (if possible a hill that has shown the power loss), the engine needs to be in a hard pull for 30 seconds or longer, the 2nd person watching the fuel pressure gauge. If the fuel pressure drops during the loaded test then the search starts for the cause. That cause, could be a plugged something (filter or Pump 'sock') or maybe a mashed fuel line. There could be a dent in the metal fuel line or even somewhere along a rubber line there could be a bent retaining clip compressing the fuel line and causing an excessive restriction to the fuel.

If the fuel pressure holds during a load test, then your power problem is not fuel delivery.

NOTE: if the vacuum gauge is still connected during the loaded test. The vacuum gauge will normally be on zero during a hard pull. If there is an exhaust restriction that did not show up earlier, the vacuum gauge may start to read a slight (1-2"hg positive [1/2 to 1psi]) pressure.

hope this helps,
wayne
__________________
Wayne, Diane, & Bentley (our 22 lb. alarm system)
02 Pace Arrow 37A-Workhorse, 01 Jeep Wrangler toad

RinkersRanch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 02:53 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
450Donn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas,OR
Posts: 4,000
Low fuel volume. Weak in tank pump or clogged or damaged line. Replace the rubber fuel hoses change filters and see. If it continues it may be time for a new pump.
__________________
Don and Lorri
Resident Dummy.
450Donn is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 04:07 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
87Rockwood's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Lyons, GA
Posts: 769
And do not drive it until you have clean fuel coming out the fuel line. No sense in changing filters and injectors if you still have dirty fuel in the tank/lines.
__________________

87Rockwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
power



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×