Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > National RV Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Register FilesVendors Registry Blogs FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-03-2015, 10:35 PM   #1
mrk
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Collinsville, IL
Posts: 154
Hot battery interconnect relay

I have a 1999 Tradewinds. While removing, recharging, and eventually replacing my four coach batteries, I noticed that a clicking sound was coming from the battery interconnect relay. I touched it, and it was hot (about 105 degrees).
The coach was not connected to shore power, and the coach batteries were not connected. Only the chassis batteries were in the coach. On occasion, the clicking would cease, yet the relay remained hot.
I've now installed the new coach batteries. There is no clicking, but the relay is still hot. I then connected shore power, and still no clicking, but the relay remains hot.
Is the relay supposed to be hot all the time? Is there a simple way to disconnect it, as it surely is being heated by either the coach or chassis batteries, or both.
mrk is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-04-2015, 05:42 PM   #2
mrk
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Collinsville, IL
Posts: 154
CLARIFICATIN: After some research, I think I've mis-stated what part is getting hot. It is actually the shiny, cylindrical interconnect switch, the switch with the chassis battery connected to the left side and the coach batteries connected to the right side. There are two smaller wires that I believe go to the relay, or rather, to the one-amp fuse to the right of the relay. Both the relay and fuse are between the bolts labeled JP1 and JP3.
Because the wires appeared to go to the fuse, I pulled it out.. The diode light came on, and I understand this to mean that the circuit was active/in-use. The interconnect started to cool. That's a good thing. When I reinserted the fuse, the relay clicked, and the interconnect started to heat up again, so I pulled the fuse out again.
Assuming this fuse incapacitate the relay, does the relay serve any other function, such as an engine starting function? Can I leave the fuse out, or will I find another issue related to it?
Since the relay engages and disengages when powered or not powered, I don't think the relay is my problem. Can anybody suggest what might be causing the circuit to be Hot all the time?
mrk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2015, 06:34 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
wb7auk's Avatar
 
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Spokane Valley, Wa
Posts: 1,987
Sounds like the emergency start boost control line is shorted or the switch is bad.
This relay is not a 100% duty cycle relay the reason it is getting hot.
I attached a pic of the power sys board.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12v120vpowersystem.pdf (706.9 KB, 139 views)
__________________
Art
1999 Trade Winds 7371 Cat 3126B w/current upgrades
1990 D 250 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo
wb7auk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2015, 07:08 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 37
A couple facts that may help.


105F is not hot for electrical components, just uncomfortable to hold.
The interconnect solenoid is a continuous duty device, so it will get warm. That is the way it's supposed to work. It's purpose is to assure charging of both chassis and house batteries while on shore power, generator power or engine alternator power and also enable a boost function to start the engine if the chassis battery is low.


Unless your batteries are not being properly charged, I don't think you have a problem. If you have no charging and the solenoid is warm, look to a bad solenoid (dirty internal contacts),


Hope this helps.
Capt. Flipper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2015, 07:26 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
wb7auk's Avatar
 
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Spokane Valley, Wa
Posts: 1,987
From the factor is was a continuous duty but was it replaced at some point?
My relay does not even get warm.
Without the house batteries there is no power transfer thru the relay contacts to speak of.
The relay coil may have a problem in the coil causing it to heat.
__________________
Art
1999 Trade Winds 7371 Cat 3126B w/current upgrades
1990 D 250 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo
wb7auk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2015, 07:48 PM   #6
YC1
Senior Member
 
YC1's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 11,452
If you have a solar panel and someone has installed a bi directional control device it may stay energized. Even if it does not have a solar panel a defective bi-directional device could keep the solenoid on.

Or someone may have modified it to stay on.

In any case, they will run warm to hot if run all the time. Some get so hot you cannot touch them.
__________________
Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008

.
YC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2015, 10:25 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
National RV Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,502
Mine is on pretty much 100% on due to solar panels and/or shore power at night for past 12 years. Always is almost too hot to touch. Solenoid contacts became resistive after about 10 years. Exact replacement also runs just as hot.

Nature of the beast!
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342, W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus, Scan Gauge II.. 2004 Jeep Liberty, Blue-Ox Adventa..
M&EM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2015, 10:50 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
chboone's Avatar


 
National RV Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Horse Town USA, CA.
Posts: 3,784
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrk View Post
I have a 1999 Tradewinds. While removing, recharging, and eventually replacing my four coach batteries, I noticed that a clicking sound was coming from the battery interconnect relay. I touched it, and it was hot (about 105 degrees).
The coach was not connected to shore power, and the coach batteries were not connected. Only the chassis batteries were in the coach. On occasion, the clicking would cease, yet the relay remained hot.
I've now installed the new coach batteries. There is no clicking, but the relay is still hot. I then connected shore power, and still no clicking, but the relay remains hot.
Is the relay supposed to be hot all the time? Is there a simple way to disconnect it, as it surely is being heated by either the coach or chassis batteries, or both.
Here is the troubleshooting procedure for the RV Customs 12V Distribution Board. The interconnect relay (Shiny one) is a continuous duty relay. Your board should be the 111979A. You can also contact RV Custom Products for assistance, they are very helpful.
BTW, my interconnect relay is also energized most of the time because of my 520 watts of solar. It does get warm will need to check it with the IR gun to see what temp it is.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf National 12V Distribution Center TSG.pdf (469.5 KB, 134 views)
__________________
1999 35 ft. Dolphin 5350, F53, Banks System, 5 Stars Tune, Air Lift Air Bags, Koni Shocks, Blue OX TruCenter, TigerTrak track bars F&R, Roadmaster 1-3/4" rear auxiliary sway bar, 2004 F450 Lariat Pickup 6.0 Diesel Crew Cab DRW, 4X4, GVWR 15,000, Front GAWR 6,000, Rear GAWR 11,000, GCWR 26,000,1994 36ft Avion 5er, GVWR 13,700, 2,740 Pin Weight.
chboone is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
battery



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Large power draw on chassis battery '94 Kountry Star omegacanuck Newmar Owner's Forum 54 01-31-2016 08:22 PM
Electrical problem -- no battery power Johnny1000 Travel Trailer Discussion 12 07-20-2015 01:11 PM
Help! Battery not charging? Boomster Travel Trailer Discussion 2 05-31-2015 10:44 AM
Unique type of Battery Failure teddyu Class A Motorhome Discussions 10 09-27-2014 09:29 AM
Aux Battery installed wrong Fatfender Forest River Owners Forum 8 01-22-2014 06:22 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.