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Old 09-27-2014, 11:33 AM   #1
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Hot Water heater and Moulding

I have a 2005 Dolphin LX. and we are getting her ready to head South for the winter again. Below is my questions.

1. Tried to remove the drain plug in the hot water heater. I can get the plug unthreaded, but can only get the anode pulled out 1/8”. No water shows up yet. May be corrosion? Anyone had that problem and a solution?

2. The moulding on each side needs to be recaulked. Any kind of caulk work better than others? I generally use silicone, but it is tough to remove later on. Also it looks like the moulding has a 1/2” reflective tape applied to it. Has anyone replaced this yet? Mine is pretty cracked. Looks like it will be tough to remove and I haven’t found a source yet.

Thanks…Bill
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Old 09-27-2014, 11:42 AM   #2
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My opinion.....NEVER use a silicone sealant on an RV.....anywhere! Use a good polyurethane based sealant like Sikaflex or Vulkem. You will not regret it. Rook
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:12 PM   #3
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Rook…thanks for the swift reply. I’m on my way to get some. I had used Sikaflex years ago on sailboats with great success. The name of it had just slipped my mind.

Bill….32ft 05 Dolphin LX towing a 14 CRV
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:40 PM   #4
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Sounds like the anode on your water heater has 'blossomed' and is blocking removal. The anode is much softer than the steel threaded plug, I'd tug and rotate it with a pair of vice grips to get it out.
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:36 PM   #5
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Unless your water heater was replaced, it should be an Atwood, nylon plug without an anode.

Fred
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:28 AM   #6
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Thanks for the water heater reply guys…. my heater is an Atwood and it is a steel plug with an anode. The RV store showed me a new one from an Atwood heater. I will just have to horse it out of the heater…..maybe call Atwood tech support…
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:56 AM   #7
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The title of your thread begs the question:
"Why does hot water need heating?"
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokemon View Post
Thanks for the water heater reply guys…. my heater is an Atwood and it is a steel plug with an anode. The RV store showed me a new one from an Atwood heater. I will just have to horse it out of the heater…..maybe call Atwood tech support
Pokemon
Good idea...(or read your Atwood WH manual).
I don't believe an Atwood WH wants/needs an "anode rod"...(they may be harmful to the tank)?
A call, or an email, to Atwood, (with the model # of your WH), will get you te CORRECT answer..(who knows Atwood WHs better than Atwood)?
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:28 AM   #9
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Hot Water heating….great observation… Still can’t figure why we put ice cubes in a glass of cold water either…

As for the anode, The RV place showed me a new Atwood heater with the anode installed, so I at least know what I am battling. I assume Atwood used them where electrolysis could be a problem and uses an anode of dissimilar metal to be the sacrificial part. I will have to call the wizard at Atwood Monday to get an answer on that.

Thanks for the input...
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:53 AM   #10
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If you use Google there are many references and anodes for sale for Atwood heaters. While it used to be, "Suburban has anodes, Atwood doesn't" seems like that's not an absolute.

https://www.google.com/search?num=40....0.CYHg1_Z788k
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Old 09-28-2014, 12:30 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
If you use Google there are many references and anodes for sale for Atwood heaters. While it used to be, "Suburban has anodes, Atwood doesn't" seems like that's not an absolute.

https://www.google.com/search?num=40....0.CYHg1_Z788k
BFlinn181
You are correct,
Not much about RVs is "absolute".

However there are 100s of things "for sale" that are harmful to a RV, (or a component in a RV) ....even if/when used as advertized.
Me thinks an "anode rod" used in an Atwood WH may be one?
The Owners Manual for the particular make model WH will contain the correct information re: an anode.
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Old 09-28-2014, 01:23 PM   #12
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An anode is a sacrificial piece of metal that is more electrically active than the surrounding metal types. An Atwood tank is made of aluminum, which could benefit from an anode if the water contains salts or minerals that could encourage electrolysis that would dissolve the tank lining. Magnesium is the most sacrificial of the 3 common anodes, magnesium, aluminum, and zinc. A magnesium anode would be cheap insurance to prevent a water tank corroding to the point it needs replacement. Suburban water tanks are made of steel, they are VERY prone to corrosive electrolysis and must have an anode.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:58 PM   #13
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Well it’s settled…I got hold of Atwood tech services today and they don’t use anodes in any Atwood RV water heaters. They use a plastic plug for Atwood water heaters, part # 91857.

So National RV or someone installed an anode in the heater before I owned it.
Oops! it’s not settled. I still have to get the stuck anode out. So I just reinstalled it and will head South. Will take it out when we return in 2015, otherwise…To Be Continued

Thanks for your comments and replies…Bill
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred and Bonnie View Post
Unless your water heater was replaced, it should be an Atwood, nylon plug without an anode.

Fred
Right you are Fred. I replaced the plastic drain plug with a valve. When I want to clean the water heater, I attach a hose to the valve and drain it off to the dirt. When done I remove the hose and use the water heater cleaning stick to flush out the rest of the garbage.
Lastly:
Since I switched from salt to Potassium Chloride in my water softener. The build up in the water softener is almost nothing .
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