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tmw188 · 02-17-2016, 04:14 PM

Has anyone replaced their small original solar panel on the roof to be able to use the wire already in place? If so any issues with wire size or anything else? Also did that panel feed the house bank and the chassis battery?

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M&EM · 02-17-2016, 08:24 PM

I got a 15 watt panel from Harbor Freight. Attached to roof near same AC unit original came on. Used same wiring as original. Rewired to feed directly chassis battery.

DC Battery control automatically ties in house batteries once charge state reaches about 13.5 volts . Little chance of ever overcharging...

chboone · 02-19-2016, 12:04 AM

Replaced mine with 520 watts of solar

Karl0525 · 02-19-2016, 04:37 AM

I replaced mine with a 40 watt panel and put a battery tender solar charger in line. Been working great for me (Battery Tender 021-1162 Solar Panel Charger Controller)

tnvolrvr · 02-20-2016, 09:51 AM

I have a small solar panel on top of my 1997 Dolphin. Don't even know if it works. Where would it be hooked up to the batteries? and how can I test it to see if it is working?
Thanks,
tvvolrvr

Karl0525 · 02-20-2016, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnvolrvr

I have a small solar panel on top of my 1997 Dolphin. Don't even know if it works. Where would it be hooked up to the batteries? and how can I test it to see if it is working?
Thanks,
tvvolrvr

Does it mount on top of the ac unit? My original one did and opened up the ac cover on the inside and with a volt meter found the negative and positive to the battery I cut the wires and added the charge controller. Then mounted the new solar panel on top

tmw188 · 02-20-2016, 08:29 PM

Good info, I looked at the same panel today. Northern Tools has a 20watt but it is suggested to use a controller for that size of cell. So you are saying that with your 15watt you use no controller because it brings in the other batteries automatically thru the house wiring?

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M&EM · 02-20-2016, 10:48 PM

tmw188,

That is what I said. But to qualify that, I will say that your DC battery controller should be working properly. NRV probably used same/similar battery controller board in your 2005.

In addition, the 20 watt panel will put out about an amp during peak daylight and will start to serve to equalize battery cells on a fully charged battery(>14.6volts). Once the dc battery controller brings all the batteries together, 1-2 amps is not going to cause over charging, since the solenoid that connects coach and chassis batteries together uses > 0.5 amps. Just keep a regular check on battery water. Night time will allow some phantom loads to remove some charge every night.

GREGORYJ · 02-20-2016, 10:50 PM

To me the way the original was glued directly to the roof was a bad idea in that it
appeared to get much too hot from the heat of the sun which damaged it. I replaced mine with a 85 watt panel that is raised above the roof with an air space under it. The wires were adequate but I believe only went to the RV 12v breaker panel. I wired directly to the chassis batteries and added a charge controller, near the batteries, so batteries don't overcharge.

tmw188 · 02-21-2016, 06:00 AM

There are two different types of collector cells Amorphous and Polycrystalline I take it most are using the Amorphous?

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M&EM · 02-21-2016, 09:26 AM

I think there are 3 types of voltaic cell technologies.

Amorphous may be thin film technology and is less area efficient than the others, poly and mono are more common. Poly may be more tolerant in very hot environment. But all semiconductor materials degrade with temperature.

My smaller panels(15W) are of the poly type. The larger(75W) are mono. The larger panels now 21 years old and outputting about 50% of when new. All the panels are mounted with hardware to allow air space underneath them.

tmw188 · 02-28-2016, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M&EM

tmw188,

That is what I said. But to qualify that, I will say that your DC battery controller should be working properly. NRV probably used same/similar battery controller board in your 2005.

In addition, the 20 watt panel will put out about an amp during peak daylight and will start to serve to equalize battery cells on a fully charged battery(>14.6volts). Once the dc battery controller brings all the batteries together, 1-2 amps is not going to cause over charging, since the solenoid that connects coach and chassis batteries together uses > 0.5 amps. Just keep a regular check on battery water. Night time will allow some phantom loads to remove some charge every night.

Where can I find the controller? I want to replace the old original panel and use the original wiring for the ease installation. I have the coach at the house today and I will look for it. I didn't see it behind the control panel in the hall. If it already has a controller that will make things a lot easier. I'll check thru some of the schematics I have to see if I can identify it.

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chboone · 02-28-2016, 10:27 PM

No controller for the original solar panel NRV installed. The attached drawing of the BCC may or may not help. Newer BCC'so have circuit breakers instead of fuses. The drawing shows the solar panel is connected to fuse F7.

tmw188 · 02-29-2016, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chboone

No controller for the original solar panel NRV installed. The attached drawing of the BCC may or may not help. Newer BCC'so have circuit breakers instead of fuses. The drawing shows the solar panel is connected to fuse F7.

Hey thanks chboone I did find the schematic just by chance on the hatch door to the inverter it looks similar the the one you posted I should be able to do something from there with the controller. thanks...

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