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Old 06-11-2020, 06:59 PM   #1
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Outlets not working, slide seals, and window removal questions.

I'm going on my 3rd year with my Seabreeze LX, and I've been looking into fixing up a few things.

First, since day 1 of my ownership, the 2 outlets in the nightstands never worked. I removed everything to have a look under the bed, and I found the power wire coming into the slide had gotten pinched in the out hard stop and was crushed. I repaired the wire and tied it so the issue would never happen again, but there is no power going to this wire. Does anyone know where this wire gets its power from?

I've been checking the GFCI outlets, none of them will trip if I push the "test" button, and all of the outlets work. So while the GFCI outlet are all bad, none are currently tripped. As far as I know, all outlets should be powered.

Second, my slide seals are bad and need replacing. I know where to get the seals and which ones, but I looked closely at them today and I see there are 2 sets of seals. There is an inner seal that looks to be in perfect condition and a nightmare to replace, but there is an outer seal that appears to be simply glued onto a 1" lip around each slideout. Am I correct? I just need to get the new outer seals and glue it on? I tested an area, and the old seal should come off without too much trouble and cleaning...hopefully...

3rd, I pulled off the ridiculously dated beveled mirror backsplash, and installed peel and stick tiles (looks fantastic). However, I wanted to remove the inner kitchen window frame to run the tiles under it, but to my surprise there appears to be a black rubberized sealant that would take serious work to remove the frame. Is this a NRV installation, or is this possibly from some aftermarket work that was done over the years? I've never seen anything like this in ANY of the online RV window removal videos. I'm very close to DIY defogging the windows, but this makes it all even more challenging.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:53 PM   #2
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First: I'd bet you even money that there is an outlet on that circuit that you don't know about. I know because I had the same problem and a tech found that there was an outlet in the forward basement compartment that was on the circuit and had been damaged by moisture coming in the back.



Second: Yes you have it right. I had to do it myself. Just grab one end and pull. You may need to get a scraper under there while pulling. You might also find screws holding it in some spots. They sink into the rubber but the scraper will find them. Get the mating surface as clean as reasonably possible. Clean it with alcohol before applying the tape to give it a clean spot. It is possible to apply the new one upside down, don't ask. It might even work anyway.



Third: Right again. That is part of the modern window installation process. I'd wait on the backsplash tiles till you do the windows. You may find that the thickness of the tile will make it hard to install the window or that the tension you need to apply to the screws will wreck the tiles. That window was designed to fit that wall exactly. Perhaps tile with a nice curved nosing would be better.
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Old 06-11-2020, 10:25 PM   #3
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If your GFI outlets have power and won't trip, you probably have a floating ground.
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Old 06-12-2020, 07:01 AM   #4
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Thanks for the responses.

I will try to find what else is on that circuit. I hope I find the issue.

I will order my seals today. Other than having to pull off my new slide toppers, the seal replacement doesn't seem so bad. I will try to keep the proper orientation.

I've already installed the tiles around the window, but I plan to do that window as one of the last. My windows have a slight fog in them, so I'm planning to pull the one behind my recliner first to both figure out the process of repair, and see if they can be cleaned up properly. I have the stuff I need to start, but I'm having trouble finding the will to get going on it.
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Old 06-15-2020, 09:54 AM   #5
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Update:

Still can't find my electrical outlet issue. The search continues...

I've been trying to source white slide out seals, but I can't find them. Uni-grip says white is being obsoleted, and I'm just not sure black seals are going to look ok on an all white motorhome. Obviously the windows frames and other things are black, so maybe it will be just fine? Anyone have black seals on an all white motorhome?

Pulled the first window out. I thought removing the inside frame was going to be an issue, but then it dawned on me; why would I need to remove something that can just remain in place? So I removed the first window to defog, and the inside frame is still stuck to the wall. Easy.
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Old 06-15-2020, 11:14 AM   #6
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Repairing the fogged window isn't difficult but it can be tedious. I've done about a dozen. The hardest part by far is removing the handle from the slider. I took my first slider to a local glass shop. It's a small shop in a small town that we've done a lot of business with where I used to work. He let me go in the back with him and help him remove the handle so I learned some tricks.

Before removing the glass from the frame I marked the each pane with masking tape near the top and labeled which one it was.

On my windows the handle is held on with a thin double stick foam tape. He used a home made tool that was a razor blade attached to a long flexible handle to cut through the tape on each side. Then used a heat gun to soften what couldn't be reached and pulled and tapped on the handle with a wood block. He told me tempered glass can handle up to 900 degrees without a problem so heating the handle was ok. I held the glass on the carpet covered table while he, heated, pulled and whacked. The key is not using too much pressure that you bend the handle.

After that, I did the other windows myself. I made a cutting tool out of a hacksaw blade where I ground off all the teeth and ground a hooked cutting tip on one end and a hooked scraper on the other. I started cutting through the tape using window cleaner as a lubricant but it was very slow going. I wasn't as brave as the window guy and my tool wasn't as sharp. I tried a solvent instead and found it worked much better because it softened the tape. I used Sea Foam because it didn't effect the paint on the handle but turned the tape to soft goo that could then be scraped out. When I could feel the handle moving, I heated it, clamped it to a table and started whacking one end with a block of wood and a hammer. As it started to loosen, I just pulled the handle loose.

After that it was just a matter of cleaning the solvent off with soap and a hose, then going to work separating the panes with a utility knife. After separating, there's still sealer residue on the glass which I removed with a straight edged razor blade. Two critical tips for scraping that I learned from my window washing days. #1. Each blade has a small burr on the edge that can be felt with your fingernail. Scrape with the burr UP. Second ALWAYS scrape WET! Use soapy water as a lubricant. Tempered glass is soft and will scratch if you don't follow those tips.

Before reassembling, I washed the panes with soap and water and a hose. At first I used glass cleaner and a rag, but realized this may leave some residue that may interfere with the sealer making a strong bond. After that, I used soapy water in a spray bottle and my clean hand to "wash" the panes and rinsed with a hose. You'll know they are cleaned because water will bead up and roll off the glass. I used some low pressure compressed air to blow the last droplets off the edge so a towel never touched the glass. (This is a trick used by amateur cleaning coated optical mirrors)

I bought the new spacer material off Amazon. It and the sealer is made by CR Laurence. The sealer is sticky as you-know-where, so use gloves. Before assembling the panes take great care to check for lint of smudges on the inside surfaces. Once it's sealed it's there forever to haunt you. The last window I did had a cat hair right in the center that lit up like a neon sign when sun shined through the glass. Fortunately I was able to bang on the glass with my hand and shake it to the bottom where you don't notice it.

Contrary to some rumors, there's no special gas in RV double pane windows. Also note that once you open the vacuum sealed spacer material it'll start absorbing moisture from the air, so wait until you are ready before opening the package. Unless you can quickly vacuum seal the unused portion, you can't save it for later.
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Old 06-16-2020, 07:03 AM   #7
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Thanks for the great info Tom. I pulled the non-opening window behind the recliner to test cleaning the window and go through the repair process. What a sticky mess!!

The glass is cleaned up, and looks to be in perfect condition. I need to build a jig to both align the new spacer, and align the pieces of glass together. This process is not fun, but it fits my budget, and I know the work done will be perfect.
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Old 07-30-2020, 03:56 AM   #8
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I saw your post on the slide seals for your 2004 Sea Breeze. Have you been able to obtain the right seals,if so what is the part number.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lrsses View Post
I saw your post on the slide seals for your 2004 Sea Breeze. Have you been able to obtain the right seals,if so what is the part number.
I tried twice to buy the UNI-GRIP SD-271-T, but they phased out white and the black was out of stock. The minimum run is 1,000 feet, so they won't run any until they get a large enough order. I needed 54 feet, so I moved on.

I ordered part # 171236974520 from rvoutlet on eBay. It arrived a couple of days ago, and I installed it on my lounge slide yesterday. The seal seems perfect (dimensionally identical) and sticks on strongly. I'm doing the bedroom slide this morning.
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