Outside Mirror Loose

[Rockport Ron]

Recently my outside mirror got very loose. The mirror to my surprise was originally mounted to wood backing underneath the exterior fiberglass and a foam under layer over the wood. Original threads in wood are enlarged so the wood screws can no longer be tightened. Tried repairing the wood with wood epoxy that supposedly could be threaded after it cured. Needless to say this approach failed miserably.
Has anybody out there found a fix that did not entail an extensive repair involving removing the dashboard and inside panel to install a metal plate behind the original mounting medium.
Would appreciate any suggestions.

[NMRVer]

Depends on access. But if you have access to the wood, could you router out some and replace/glue in new wood? Or just replace the wood backing with new? Best of luck..

[Bill WA6YBD]

Hi Ron,

I would use a wall mount that expands and creates a stable solid mount. Look at the link I have provided at #5 and you will see an illustration of a metal (not the plastic) wall mount I would use. They are available in several screw sizes and lengths. You can get them at Ace Hardware or Home Depot. I would use a 1/4-20 screw if possible. You will need to measure the depth of the fiberglass and wood so the butterfly part of the bold ends up in the correct position just behind the wood.

Why would plastic anchors pull out of the wall? - Home Improvement Stack Exchange

1. Drill out the current hole(s) with a 1/4" drill bit. Be careful so as not to go all the way through the interior wall. Just enough to get past the fiberglass and wood backing. Approximately 1 inch
2. Push the wall mount screw all the way in and tighten the screw so the mounting bolt will butterfly inside the wall. If you are using a 1/4-20 size wall mount screw you can get it very tight. The smaller 6-32 size wall mounts may break if you tighten them too much. Use the larger size mounts for this purpose.
3. Repeat for any additional hole that requires repair.
4. Remove the new screws.
5. Reinstall the mirror using the new screws. Be sure to put some silicon seal between the mirror mounting plate the siding.

This repair will be more solid than the original installation.

Good luck,

~Bill

I am not sure what is going on with the web site as this is my second attempt to post a response to your question. I hope this one makes it.

[Rockport Ron]

Originally Posted by Bill WA6YBD

Hi Ron,

I would use a wall mount that expands and creates a stable solid mount. Look at the link I have provided at #5 and you will see an illustration of a metal (not the plastic) wall mount I would use. They are available in several screw sizes and lengths. You can get them at Ace Hardware or Home Depot. I would use a 1/4-20 screw if possible. You will need to measure the depth of the fiberglass and wood so the butterfly part of the bold ends up in the correct position just behind the wood.

Why would plastic anchors pull out of the wall? - Home Improvement Stack Exchange

1. Drill out the current hole(s) with a 1/4" drill bit. Be careful so as not to go all the way through the interior wall. Just enough to get past the fiberglass and wood backing. Approximately 1 inch
2. Push the wall mount screw all the way in and tighten the screw so the mounting bolt will butterfly inside the wall. If you are using a 1/4-20 size wall mount screw you can get it very tight. The smaller 6-32 size wall mounts may break if you tighten them too much. Use the larger size mounts for this purpose.
3. Repeat for any additional hole that requires repair.
4. Remove the new screws.
5. Reinstall the mirror using the new screws. Be sure to put some silicon seal between the mirror mounting plate the siding.

This repair will be more solid than the original installation.

Good luck,

~Bill

I am not sure what is going on with the web site as this is my second attempt to post a response to your question. I hope this one makes it.

Hi Bill, WA6YBD
Thank you for your response and suggestion.
I did not receive the link to #5 that you had mentioned.
I believe your idea may be my solution. The wall mounts you spoke of do they come in different wall thicknesses?
One of the mounting holes may not be able to use that particular wall mount because of the access hole for the mirror's electric cable is in a bad place (see photo). I may have to use a different mount here because the mounting hole wall broke into the access hole. Part of the screw hole wall broke off.

[Rockport Ron]

Originally Posted by NMRVer

Depends on access. But if you have access to the wood, could you router out some and replace/glue in new wood? Or just replace the wood backing with new? Best of luck..

Thank you for your response. I do not have easy access to the wood. I would have to dismantle part of the RV interior up front.

[JohnRR]

How about a piece of aluminum plate say 1/4" thick drill holes in the plate then screw it to the wall at someplace other than the original screw holes then drill suitable size screw holes for the mirror mount where the oversize holes are at now then screw the mirror to the plate.

If you don't want the silver showing when mounted just paint the edges of the aluminum flat black before installing it.

The aluminum would not be to tough to file or shape to the contour of the mounting gasket for a custom looking fit.

[Bill WA6YBD]

Hi Ron,

To access the link just left click the green "Why would plastic anchors pull out of the wall? - Home improvement stack exchange" that is the link. when you move your mouse over the green link it will underline, when it underlines left click on it. It appears to work here.

Yes they make them in various lengths. You will more than likely need the shortest one but measure the depth to be sure. I would use a a piece of wire with a 90 degree bend at one end. push the wire in the hole, rotate the wire so the bend will hook on the wood inside the wall then mark the wire on the outside. Rotate the wire and unhook it from the inside pull it out and that is the depth you want.

As long as the one hole near the wire is not broken through you might still be able to use a metal wall mount. Otherwise a plastic insert wall mount may work. With 3 metal mounts and one plastic it will be very solid. You may also be able to use plastic inserts in all locations however they are not as strong. However if the wood and fiberglass is not too badly screwed up plastic will work.

~Bill

[chboone]

You could also use toggle type anchors you need to drill a slightly hole for the head to fit. The head goes all the way through the wood and locks on the backside of it. They are available in 1/4" and 3/8" you can replace the screw anything you want, hex or Phillips.

Crown Bolt 3/8 in. x 6 in. Zinc-Plated Mushroom-Head Toggle Bolt Anchor-00464 - The Home Depot

[legryz]

There probably is not enough room for the toggle type to open. The wood that the mirrors are mounted to are probably only the thickness of the wall, so the interior paneling is attached to that wood. 1 1/2" thick.

[chboone]

If it is under the dash and not accessible as the OP says he can drill through the paneling, if there is any and push the toggle all the way through. However, depending on how wide the block is there may not be enough meat to drill a hole large enough for the toggle. The best thing to use would be a threaded insert in the wood. I looked but didn't see any I would be comfortable using for my own. The aluminum plate that JohnRR suggested would be a good long lasting fix.

[Gerryl]

The aluminum plate that JohnRR suggested is the way I would go. I would make a template out of heavy paper exactly the size of the mirror plate and take it to a metal shop. Have them 'tap' holes in it so you can use stainless bolts to mount your mirror to it once you have the plate attached to the motorhome.

Have them put other holes in it (avoiding the holes that are already there) so you can use wood screws to attach the new plate to the motor home. I would use wood screws and "LEXEL" glue to mount the Aluminum plate.

PS they can also run a small opening from the bottom of the plate up to the large hole that your wire comes through, so you don't have to undo the wiring to the mirror.

[ga traveler]

About 75% of the time, we were able to drill through the wall and install bolts with nuts and large washers. You have to check carefully, because at first glance it looks like the back side is not accessable. Most times it is. If not, carefully drill out the screw holes with a larger drill bit. Be careful not to go through the inner wall. Epoxy four plugs into the holes using wood dowels. Predrill the four holes and reinstall the mirror.