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Old 09-15-2021, 03:32 PM   #1
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Problems with 2004 Dolphin

A couple of months ago I purchased this Dolphin with the 8.1 GM engine. I've put close to 8K miles on it and really like the way it rides and handles (This is my 5th RV so I'm not a novice)

My son shorted the auto transfer switch and ruined it. I replaced it with the same model and it functions as it should BUT now the Zantrex Inverter/charger do not work, nor does the microwave convection oven. I've done a lot searches and reading but can't really find a way to test them to see if they are repairable. Or do I just need to bite the bullet and toss them?

The Norcold 1200 does not cool the lower part. It makes ice very well but also has a leak that allows water to freeze in the bottom of the freezer under the ice maker. I removed the outside access cover and it is very crowed in there. When on propane the flame is very good but I can't hear fans running - should I? I think both AC and propane are cooling the freezer. Baffles, I don't know what baffles should look like. Any suggestions? On a previous motorhome I replaced the Norcold 1200 with a residential refrigerator and my wife was very pleased. I can do that to this one but don't want to do it this month, have another trip coming up and don't have the time.

The dash air blows only outside air. I've had all the valves on the Freon side replaced & pressures are correct. They now think there is a problem in the heater box under the dash. Any idea of how to get into that heater box area?

Sorry to be so long winded but didn't want to make several posts.
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Old 09-15-2021, 05:23 PM   #2
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I take it you are plugged into AC power. A breaker may have popped when the transfer switch shorted.

the Norcold can be a good refrig. even with people posting problems. The refrig portion may not be getting cold if the clip on sensor on the fins inside the refig is not attached or too high or low on the fins. The fans only come on when the temp. in the outside area gets too hot.
the ice maker leaking may be the plastic hose leading up to the left side of the ice maker. The icemaker can be removed by removing the two screws that secure it to the back of the freezer. Also make sure the temp setting on the front of the refrig is set to a high number.

Dash AC, is your compressor coming on? If you move the AC knob does the air flow change to defrost or floor heat? If not you may have a broken vacuum hose. I wouldn't let someone mess with the heater box. That sounds like someone that doesn't know what they are doing.
Another possibility is the heater valve is stuck partially open.
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Old 09-15-2021, 06:19 PM   #3
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Interesting that you have a Norcold in your 2004 Dolphin and I have a Dometic NDR1062 in mine. Could they be ordered either way, or was it a mid-year change I wonder?
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Old 09-16-2021, 10:52 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian View Post
I take it you are plugged into AC power. A breaker may have popped when the transfer switch shorted.

the Norcold can be a good refrig. even with people posting problems. The refrig portion may not be getting cold if the clip on sensor on the fins inside the refig is not attached or too high or low on the fins. The fans only come on when the temp. in the outside area gets too hot.
the ice maker leaking may be the plastic hose leading up to the left side of the ice maker. The icemaker can be removed by removing the two screws that secure it to the back of the freezer. Also make sure the temp setting on the front of the refrig is set to a high number.

Dash AC, is your compressor coming on? If you move the AC knob does the air flow change to defrost or floor heat? If not you may have a broken vacuum hose. I wouldn't let someone mess with the heater box. That sounds like someone that doesn't know what they are doing.
Another possibility is the heater valve is stuck partially open.
*****************
Belgium, Thank you for the response. I've checked the breakers and all that I can find are in the right position, reset and back to on. I'll check for a clip on the fins in the refrigerator and maybe move it up when I find it. And I'll pull the ice maker and check the hoses.

The dash air compressor comes on, the hoses under the hood get very cold and ice up. Vents do not change - only the temp changes, if I turn the temp to hot I get hot air otherwise it's outside temp air.
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Old 09-16-2021, 02:18 PM   #5
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Sounds like you have a vacuum line disconnected somewhere. I'm not familiar with the GM, but there should be a vacuum tank somewhere in the front, near the engine with vacuum feed from the engine, and another vacuum line going to the AC components.
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Old 09-17-2021, 11:07 AM   #6
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Harry, Thanks for the response. I'll look for a vacuum leak. That'd hopefully be an easy search and fix.

As far as the inverter I get 120 volts into it but no 120 inverter output, also no 12 volt output to the batteries. I'm figuring that's a dead inverter. Over $1,000 for a new one. Rats!
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Old 09-17-2021, 11:46 AM   #7
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I suggest that you test for 110v at microwave.. most have internal fuse.. so unplug.. test for 110v at outlet.. if got power.. while unplugged.. pull front control board and look for internal fuses

A/c on mine.. 2000 southwind.. which is denso system.. there is electric motor for HVAC door to recirculation.. motor could be bad.. or critters plugging door.. so.. under hood pass side.. use cell phone with camera and flash and record up under where the door is for outside air.. see if plugged..
Next.. remove inside pass foot kick plate.. use magnet to feel for screws under carpet.. mine also has 110v outlet and cigarette lighter and phone jack.. so check no power on outlet.. unplug rv, no gen, no inverter ect.... pull kick plate.. hope you are good at standing on head... use cell phone with camera and flash and record up under dash on top of HVAC box.. there you will see where the cables to actuate the different settings.. and plastic levers.. clean and lube.. try different settings.. see if you can hear different doors opening and closing..
Next.. pull blower.. sometimes critters get in there and make nest, hide nuts.. cause havoc.. blow out.. vac out.. use cell phone with camera and flash and record up under inside blower housing... see if you can get to recirculation door.. the doors all are on plastic hinges .. so lube those too.. now is good time.. to hold cell phone with camera and flash and record inside blower housing and way up to far right and reach with phone over evap.. make sure no critters in there.. do same far left inside blower housing.. as far as you can reach .. slowly on both sides.. get good recording.. watch it.. make sure no critters are sleeping in there..

You cell phone with camera and flash and record... is your best friend.. it fits where your head cannot.. so use it.. take pictures before removing blower there are a lot of wires and relays there..
If door is not moving.. no critters.. then check for power at motor

When things go haywire and don't make sense... keep critters in the back of your mind all the time..

Good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
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Old 09-17-2021, 11:49 AM   #8
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Oh.. forgot to mention... when is last time.. all switches and relay change on auto park system ? And changed auto park system oil? Change diff, p/s and brake oils.. how is roof? Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 09-17-2021, 11:55 AM   #9
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Critters love tasty wires and rubber hoses and lines on rv.. if they have been setting.. they build nest and short things out.. and cause havoc.. even today.. new cars are totalled every day because critters eat through so many wires.. it's just too expensive to repair..

So.. always keep critters in the back of your mind
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Old 09-19-2021, 11:02 AM   #10
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I was able to spend some time on this RV yesterday. The dash AC problem I'm having confuses me more every time I look at it. So changed engine oil, ran the AC and tried the various air control settings. The air comes out the selected settings, defrost, floor, mixed upper and lower. Fan blows on all speeds. Guess it's time to take it to a professional. Was fun getting this 78 year old body down in the area in front of the passenger seat to check air flow, getting out or up from there wasn't all that much fun.

As far as the microwave convection oven. I pulled the front cover and have access to the wiring and circuit board. I see nothing that looks like a fuse. And yes I checked for power and it gets power. About ready to give up on that one also.

Thanks guys for the suggestions.
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Old 09-21-2021, 02:32 PM   #11
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I had an issue with my inverter. While at Disney world I had an open neutral for about 5 min. Then my microwave didn't work and other outlets. It ended up being a blown fuse inside the inverter. Had to order them, has 2 in inverter. Really small fuses. Had to take inverter apart to get to them. There's a relay in there that closes to put power to the microwave and other outlets. Maybe when you shorted the relay it blew those fuses. Worth a look.
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Old 09-22-2021, 06:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ciderdog View Post
*****************
Belgium, Thank you for the response. I've checked the breakers and all that I can find are in the right position, reset and back to on. I'll check for a clip on the fins in the refrigerator and maybe move it up when I find it. And I'll pull the ice maker and check the hoses.

The dash air compressor comes on, the hoses under the hood get very cold and ice up. Vents do not change - only the temp changes, if I turn the temp to hot I get hot air otherwise it's outside temp air.
I have a 2004 Dolphin. Ck this forum for the Evans valve. It controls changing from heat to cold. They are known to not close all the way and allow the heated water not to be closed. There is no guarantee that a new Evans valve will not be defective. I installed a new one - same results. I have installed brass valves inline [ on the heater hose from motor to the "box"] to be able to turn off the heated water. To have heat - open- to have ac- close.
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Old 09-23-2021, 12:36 AM   #13
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What biker bob has said is a common problem with the Evans system. If you search you'll find some of the electronic valves were even installed backwards from the factory!

A manual shutoff valve (about $20 at NAPA) placed in front of the Evans valve is a quick fix for a leaky electronic valve. I just close the manual valve in the summer and open it back up in the winter and then you can just leave the leaky Evans valve in place.

My a/c works way better this way but my dash air still gets warm if I'm stuck in a traffic jam for more than 15 minutes or so or after I stop for gas. Seems to need adequate air flow over the condenser for the system to work properly.
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Old 10-12-2021, 05:11 PM   #14
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frige

Quote:
Originally Posted by CamJam1 View Post
Interesting that you have a Norcold in your 2004 Dolphin and I have a Dometic NDR1062 in mine. Could they be ordered either way, or was it a mid-year change I wonder?

Hi, have a 2004 Dolphin 36' and we have the Norcold 1200lrim. is yours the double door? Ours has 4 doors



Since I changed out the cooling system in the back w an Amish system, it works SUPER. Thought about the electric unit but didn't want to mess with moving the gas heater and modifying the opening.
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